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Cferna27

Adler 205 MO 25 SF Questions

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Hi everyone, new member long time viewer.  I just recently acquired an Adler 205 MO 25 SF. and have some questions about the machine.

Photo A. is the machine itself

            B. Is the pic. of the side lever. ( it does not go in reverse and the stitch  length adjustor is located in the left / rear ) by the needle.

            C. Is the close up of the presser foot with (wires) attached to it leading to a (counter) box?

            D. Is the control front facia,  Is the dial on the right a (Rheostat) for the motor speed adjustment?

            E. Is the close up of the presser foot wire connections.

            D. Is the stitch counter box?

Got this one from a guy who won it in an auction.  Then sold it to me.

It works fine even with some of the wiring disconnected?  Works best in (slow) cycles. Stitch counter is disconnected.

Would like to find out about controlling the motor speed and if this Model have no reverse feature on it?

Thanks again.

C. 

 

 

 

ADLER 1.jpg

Edited by Northmount
Fixed Title

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@Cferna27  Moved your post to "Leather Sewing Machine".  You'll get better response here.

Your photos are too small to see any detail.  Try posting individual photos.

Tom

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Hi again, here is a bigger version

 

Best,

 

C.

ADLER pic1.jpg

This one is the electronic panel.

ADLER 4.jpg

Trying to find out if this version cannot reverse?

ADLER 2.jpg

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The presser foot, works well but it leaves a deep mark on the leather.  I think this is what its use for?

ADLER 3.jpg

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That Adler is made to sew moccasins and moc style shoes. That is what the -MO indicates. You will have trouble sewing regular leather with that setup.

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Thanks again for the quick reply.

 

C.

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That Adler is made to sew moccasins and moc style shoes. That is what the -MO indicates. You will have trouble sewing regular leather with that setup.

 

Hi again, do you happen to know the use for that Dial on the right side of the electronic panel (page D.) . is that a Rheostat for controlling the motor speed?

 

Thanks again,

C.

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10 hours ago, Cferna27 said:

That Adler is made to sew moccasins and moc style shoes. That is what the -MO indicates. You will have trouble sewing regular leather with that setup.

 

Hi again, do you happen to know the use for that Dial on the right side of the electronic panel (page D.) . is that a Rheostat for controlling the motor speed?

 

Thanks again,

C.

No, I don't.

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Hi, Here is the motor again.

20190703_045817.jpg

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here is another angle of the control box.

20190703_045958~2.jpg

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The reason I asked is that a speed control for a clutch motor (which you have) requires complex electronics to provide variable speed, and would likely be in a rather large housing. That doesn't appear to be the case here, as to what that knob does without opening up the switch box I have no idea, sorry.

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dikman..that "box" may go a way back behind that front panel ..that looks awfully like a rheostat / big "pot" dial..maybe enough  space in there for "gubbinses" ? if the other end of that lead is to a mains power plug , and the switch to the left is "on/off", the red light would be the "on" indicator..if the clutch motor is fed from the back of that box?..My EFKA unit ( on my Juki DLU 490-4 ) is way bigger and more complex than that box ( controls a variable speed clutch motor built by EFKA ) but it also has needle position and other stuff and way more switches and connectors..without all of that, you could fix a speed controller and an "on/off" "switch" into a half a shoebox sized box under the table.

 

More photos, from around the box ( without camera shake ) would be helpful..as would a close up of the "power plate" on the clutch motor casing.

 

Edited by mikesc

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Mike, I agree, that is why I asked for more photos. Whatever that knob is I'm a bit surprised that there aren't any markings around it.:dunno:

I assume the OP has tried it to see what it does? (He hasn't said).

Edited by dikman

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H,i I will try and get some better photos.

Meanwhile here us the back side if the same circuit box.

Thank you again for all the help 

C.

 

20190703_045946.jpg

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Here is the back side of the Adler.

There us a counter box and connecting wires leading inside and in the presser foot itself?

20190704_080311.jpg

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Dial appears to be a rheostat for a heating element.  Not sure why they would want or need it, but I also don't know a lot about shoe manufacturing either, so take that for what it's worth.

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Did the seller have any information about these modifications? It was obviously customized by the previous actual user. They were probably using it in a specialized production environment.

You may have to strip out all the electronic components and wires to make use of this machine at all (if that is even doable).

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If that is for a heating element..maybe the idea was to heat / melt the thread that was just stitched into whatever was being sewn..would make sense if the upper was being stitched into a leather sole with a further outer sole of Rubber or PU..Melting the rubber or PU immediately after the stitch was made during stitching would protect it from abrasion ?( he said..guessing wildly ;) ) ..re "reverse"..that looks just like a plate was put there to inhibit the lever travel..I think if you take the plate off, you'll probably find that the lever goes all the way up, and thus has reverse..would make sense if the "whatever" was being melted immediately after stitches were made, you would want to be going the other way ( reverse ) and melting anything that the needle was going to be going through..that would gum up the machine something awful..I think the plate would be to prevent "operator error"..

You could as Wiz says just rip out all the wiring ..fit a servo motor..and change the feet /foot..and that makes me wonder, normally a "walking foot" machine  has two feet and a needle..Yours has only one foot and a needle that I can see from your photos..does it even have the bar for the second foot?  Parts for Adler are not cheap..

Added..Maybe the heating element was because it was used to stitch vinyl or PU with no leather involved at all..I've seen fake leather moccasins ( yes..I know..I should have averted my gaze ) heating the two layers that were being stitched together immediately after stitching ( right behind the needle ) would fuse them..

Edited by mikesc
corrected wiz ( typo ) to Wiz

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Hi to whizcrafts: 

No sir, the last guy I got it from said that he won it in an auction?  The gentleman that use to an it had passed and the relatives did not want to have anything to do with it?

To mikesc:

Hi, thank you for this. It lools like you may be right.  The presser/ foot does look more like a soldering piece than a traditional sewing foot?

So far I have been sewing with it and the current foot seems to be working well. But it leaves a little dimple on the leather though eifht beside the stitch?

The clutch motor is hard to control. Your right, I may need a servo for this. Nut now I'll be happy just to get a more traditional presser for it.

The pic shows the way the presser is attached.

 

20190704_123218.jpg

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Here is a closer pic of the presser.

20190704_123531.jpg

Here is the foot. I cannot find a similar foot design to replace it?

20190704_123440.jpg

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Your top picture there shows the foot is slightly to the side of the needle hole..so..the heated foot is to seal the edges of two pieces as they are being sewn..

Pretty sure that if you undo the plate that is on the machine that the forward and reverse lever goes through that you'll find you have reverse if you push the lever upwards..as I said above..I think it was put there to avoid "operator error".

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Hi and thanks. I'll remove the plate and see if this unit can reverse.

 

C.

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That plate looks like it's reversible itself and can be fitted the other way? At least now its obvious that the knob is a rheostat to control a heated foot.

Wiz is right, although I'm not sure I'd use the word "customise"! That terminal strip for connecting the wires is functional but not very professional, in fact the whole box looks like a home-made job. If it was mine I'd remove all the wiring and fit a servo. Keep it simple.

It's an interesting machine though.

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