Singer 51W SV 2 Post Bed Machine Restoration

[Jholden0]

Nevermind the needle plate question.  I think I found it here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/143603162021

[Constabulary]

just wanted to post a link Yeah, thats the needle plate + feed dog combination one I´m using.

The thread guide on the needle bar came with the needle bar. The NB came from a German made Singer 111D and has a wire type thread guide mounted on the backside of the needle bar. Is your missing?

[Jholden0]

So I robbed a needle bar from my old Singer 111D which rests on a shelf for some years already and - surprise surprise - the needle bar is pretty much the same so I now can use 135x17 needles - downside is the 111D needle bar is shorter. It works but I have to install a extra guide (have to figure how to do this - already have an idea).

 

 

I didn't see any follow up to this in your later posts.  I assumed that the original guide wouldn't work because the needle bar on the 111D was shorter than the original on the 51w.

[Constabulary]

  

On 7/6/2021 at 3:17 PM, Jholden0 said:

I am also curious what you used as a second thread guide for the shorter needle bar? Thank you for the information you have already provided.

You said thread guide so I assumed the wire thread guide on the needle bar.

So you mean the upper needle bar guide, right?  I took a long presser foot bar screw with same diameter as the needle bar from my spare parts junk box so I have used is as upper NB guide. I think it came form a Durkopp machine. I glued it in with JB quick weld and while curing I turned the and wheel so the NB went up and down. That ensured a straight position of the NB guide.

My idea never was to have a historical correct machine - my focus was on a properly working post sewing machine to replace my former 34K5 which had a tooo long post and the use of 135x17 / 135x16 needles as on most of my other machines. The smaller size of the bed also allows me to use it in the same table as my 107w1 and 143w2.

Edited July 7, 2021 by Constabulary

[Jholden0]

Thank you again for the response.  I also have a couple of other machines that use the 135x17 needle.  My consew 226RB-2 specifically, which is the machine I use the most.  I needed a machine to finish tote bags and to stitch shoes.  I didn't have the budget for more machines, especially a modern post bed.  So I found this one at auction for very cheap.  I am essentially trying to replicate the exact same setup that you were able to accomplish.  I figured that what you did A.gives me a working machine with out the complications of having dissimilar needles and other parts and B.  Is a known process which seems to work based on your documentation.  I am not nitpicking what you did in any way.  Rather, I am a novice when it comes to sewing machines.  I found last night, that though the machine was/is extremely dirty and needed lubrication, but actually stitches well after I changed the stitch length based off of your suggestions.  I am waiting for the new needle bar in the mail. I have found one issue which may not even be an issue.  There seems to be some play from side to side of I move the hand wheel from side to side which translates across the shaft from the back of the machine to the front take up lever.  Is this normal? If not, are there bushings between the hand wheel and shaft and the shaft and take up lever connection in the front that are worn out?  Also, the keeper for the bobbin case, had it's spring loaded tab broken off.  How can I remove the Hooke assembly to replace the entire bobbin case and hook?  Is it a set screw like most hooks on industrial machines that would be accessed from the bottom of the machine?  

 

[Jholden0]

And I am sorry for the improper wording for the needle bar guide and calling it a thread guide.  I am really, really new to sewing machines and the terminology.  That was my mistake.  Sorry to confuse.

[Constabulary]

Remove the needle plate (and maybe feed dog). Remove the small screw shown the picture. Swing the curved piece by side. Grab the center post of the bobbin case with your fingers and rotate it until it comes out. Then in the center of the hook you see a screw. This screw is holding the hook on the hook drive shaft so remove it. When the screw is out you can pull out the hook (but both could be tight because of gummed oil).

The sideways play on the top shaft most likely is because the hand wheel is a little bit too far right on the shaft. Loosen the two set screws on the hand wheel. Then you are able to carefully tighten the screw on the right end of the shaft to minimize the sideways play. Do not make it too tight. Then tighten the 2 set screws again.

Edited July 12, 2021 by Constabulary

[Jholden0]

I don't know if you're interested or not, and I'm probably going to be crucified for doing this, but I painted it and its almost back together after a thorough cleaning.  It is really tough to tear down and rebuild a sewing machine.  Especially when you have no clue what you are doing.  One thing I want to add is that my 8year old daughter picked the color.  

[chrisash]

I see nothing wrong with the colour your daughter chose, after all a certain company paints its machines a shitty brown so after that any other colour looks great and refreshing

[Constabulary]

ouuuh - indeed a very special color! Does it glow in the dark? I wouldn´t want to look at it all day but it of course it is a personal choice. I´m sure folks here would have crucified me for "destroying" the original floral decals on my machine (and maybe for other things). But I just do not like it though it looks good but its not what I like to look at when working with the machine. Personal choice...

But please don´t put Hello Kitty or My little Pony stickers on your machine **kidding**

Edited July 18, 2021 by Constabulary

[Jholden0]

It's not glow in the dark.  It's a light mint green.  The overhead light in my workshop kind of whitewashed the color.  She actually picked the color because she said not reminded her of enamel paint from old kitchenaid mixers in the early 1950s -60s I think. She actually isn't going to put any my little pony stickers on it, but she is in charge of reproduction of a singer decal with her cricut.  We shall see how it goes.  Thanks for the feedback.  I'm addicted to buying old machines now. I'm actually in the car out front of someone's house picking up an old 29k72 at this moment.

 

 

[dikman]

"Especially when you have no clue what you are doing"  That probably applied to many of us at some point!

It can be addictive, I was like that for a while but then realised I just had to get rid of some of them as I didn't have the room!  No comment on the colour.

[Jholden0]

That's the best part.  Except there have been other projects where I had no clue what I was doing that ended up as piles of scrap steel in my garage.  Haha.  

[Constabulary]

 

10 hours ago, Jholden0 said:

I'm addicted to buying old machines now.

Bitten by the buck - there is no cure

Quote

I'm actually in the car out front of someone's house picking up an old 29k72 at this moment.

Very good choice! You will have no problems finding parts!

[Jholden0]

Here she is.

It came with extra needle plates, the treadle table, boxes of needles, the original manual, and a bunch of other great stuff for $200 USD.

[eddo]

DON'T paint that one ! 

[Constabulary]

@Jholden0 maybe a longer bottom bushing will do the job too. I just noticed the later model 51w seems to have a bottom bushing only so maybe a longer one will work w/o installing a top bushing. I only can guess but looks like a good solution w/o drilling and gluing in a top bushing. Of course diameter of old and new bushing have to match.

See below thread:

 

Edited July 25, 2021 by Constabulary

[Constabulary]

just adding some information:

Edited June 8, 2022 by Constabulary

[WENDYK]

I just bought a Singer 136K104. Looks very much like yours, but with take-up/tension/check spring in the front. Bobbin seems the same.Crinkle paint. This model also seems to be "invisible". I can find manuals for 136W, which I suppose is "close enough," but nothing for 136K. Getting bobbins is insane. I order 136K and I get these enormous bobbins that I WISH my machine could take.  Wish I could post a pic.

 

[LansingDrive]

Did we ever find a manual for the 51W28, the Wheeler and Wilson version of this machine

 

Edited November 21, 2024 by LansingDrive

[Constabulary]

This is the closest I ever found for the early W&W based machines. The difference often were  just the accessories that were included but the "main machine" of the is the same or at least very similar.

Singer 51w100 and 52w100 - instructions for using and adjusting.pdf

Edited November 21, 2024 by Constabulary

[Travistheleatherguy]

forgive my ignorance but can someone please tell me the difference between the Singer 111w and a Singer 111d.  i just aquired a 51w28 and am interested in fitting it to ise the 135x16 needle system but cant find any info on the 111d you refer to in the post

[Constabulary]

12 hours ago, Travistheleatherguy said:

forgive my ignorance but can someone please tell me the difference between the Singer 111w and a Singer 111d.  i just aquired a 51w28 and am interested in fitting it to ise the 135x16 needle system but cant find any info on the 111d you refer to in the post

Basically the 111d is German made prior 1945 and the 111w is US made. They share the same parts. So 111d or 111w does not matter what matters is the needle bar diameter.

The 51w28 seems to be the same 1st model 51w as mine so you basically need a needle bar from a Singer 211 needle feed machine or 111w151 which also is a needle feed machine.

Check this thread for more details:

 

Edited March 19 by Constabulary