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So....... made a sunglasses case with veg tan. Dyed it with Fiebings Dark Brown dye. A couple days later the case has a green tinge to it. 

Could it be that I put 3 coats on it or something to do with the leather. 

The pictures don’t really do justice. 

Thanks,

Stew

 

2F1FFB62-4580-4741-BFA1-C6BCB342D4F8.jpeg

A1B0849B-2716-4F77-AAF4-6736CA5DDDD4.jpeg

Edited by Stewbeans22

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TanKote or Clear Lac will remove it

Terry

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6 hours ago, terrymac said:

TanKote or Clear Lac will remove it

Terry

It will remove the green tint or some of the dye?

 

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Just the green. It is some pigment Fiebings puts in its spirit dyes. Doesn't seem to be as bad in the.Pro series

Terry

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So I used resolene since I had that and it worked perfect. 

I looked up the difference between resolene and tankote and they were basically the same. 

I also found a great video by Ian Atkinson on YouTube talking about different finishes. See the link. 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zyTg_hfpNUM

thanks for the help. 

Stew

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I switched to Pro dye specifically because of this. You never can tell when its gonna happen and when it isn't. I've never had it happen with the Pro dye, I figure the extra buck per bottle is worth the consistency.

Good to know that resolene will fix it, unless you don't want a shiny finish.

LSITS003.jpg

Edited by battlemunky
added pic of green sheen

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Can't see the green sheen in the above pic so much but that odd metallic shine you can see was green.

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On 7/29/2019 at 8:56 PM, Stewbeans22 said:

Could it be that I put 3 coats on it or something to do with the leather. 

 

3 coats seems pretty stout using dark brown dye!  I would expect a lot of rub off from that.  But I like the sunglass case design: what pattern did you use?  I've been looking for something like that...

YinTx

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14 hours ago, YinTx said:

3 coats seems pretty stout using dark brown dye!  I would expect a lot of rub off from that.  But I like the sunglass case design: what pattern did you use?  I've been looking for something like that...

YinTx

Not sure where I got the pattern. Shoot me an email and I’ll send it to you. 

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The biggest difference between the standard spirit dyes and the Pro dyes is the pigment blends and the extra buck or so per bottle is well worth every penny.  With the regular spirit dyes the potential for rub-off is not as bad as the dye dries much faster; unfortunately though you will see an off-color sheen on every color as a result of this faster drying which you don't get with the Pro series of dyes.  Just like everything else we work with, if you want a quality result then you need to spend the extra money for quality materials and supplies; otherwise, you are just making okay stuff.

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I've read that to avoid a purple or reddish highlight  look to worn black dyed leather they used to first dye the leather blue then apply the black dye.

Could something about the color of the leather itself have caused the greenish tint and could this be dealt with by using a color killer coat first before the brown dye is applied?

 

PS

To get an even coloring of leather that isn't quite consistent in its absorbtion rate I thin the dye with 91% alcohol. I then brush on a layer and let it become almost dry the apply another coat and repeat as many times as necessary.

The softer part of the leather absorbs more of the first application of  thinned dye and holds moisture longer, mainly the 9% of water in the alcohol mixture and so that area absorbs less of the following applications.

I use the same method when staining wood that has been banged up and had dents steamed out leaving the surface uneven in its ability to absorb the stain.

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