Glueing leather to metal

[Matt S]

Not an uncommon issue but a frustrating one. I'm trying to glue waxy leather to metal (stainless steel I think). The shape of the pieces prevents me from using contact cements, and epoxy is inconvenient. Ideally the glue should be able to be squirted or sprayed through a narrow gap. Ideally it will have a high initial tack and go off quickly, leaving little or no fumes soon after curing.

I've tried the usual range of glues a workshop has, and so far the most suitable has been the hot-snot gun. However this still peels away from the metal, no matter how I degrease and key the surface. Is there a specific type of stick I should be using, or quality I should look for, to improve performance?

[mikesc]

Try the kind of "silicone/ polyurethane" glue in a tube that is used to stick car trims and windscreens on, or things to Polyester boat hulls, similar ( but waaay better ) than the stuff that you use to seal around the bath..We don't have the same brands here as you do, but a visit to a screwfix or similar and get whatever is for marine use..here it is about €15.00 ( retail ) for a 500ml cartridge..In car body shops it is put on with a "gun" that uses compressed air to "push"..it will go off quick once applied..you could squirt it, smear it out if you have access, or just squash it out to stick..Lot of car trim , badges and the chromed placcy bits..and the glass is stuck on this way..

HTH :) now back to what I was supposed to be doing, and took a break from.

Motor factors, or garage / car body repair suppliers will have it..

Edited August 1, 2019 by mikesc

[Matt S]

1 hour ago, mikesc said:

Try the kind of "silicone/ polyurethane" glue in a tube that is used to stick car trims and windscreens on, or things to Polyester boat hulls, similar ( but waaay better ) than the stuff that you use to seal around the bath..We don't have the same brands here as you do, but a visit to a screwfix or similar and get whatever is for marine use..here it is about €15.00 ( retail ) for a 500ml cartridge..In car body shops it is put on with a "gun" that uses compressed air to "push"..it will go off quick once applied..you could squirt it, smear it out if you have access, or just squash it out to stick..Lot of car trim , badges and the chromed placcy bits..and the glass is stuck on this way..

HTH now back to what I was supposed to be doing, and took a break from.

Motor factors, or garage / car body repair suppliers will have it..

Thanks Mike. Just ordered a tube of PU-based car trim adhesive to try out. It'll take me a long time to get through 500ml! If that doesn't work I'll try some silicone RTV.

[Matt S]

Quick trial of the PU-based stuff is successful. Whiffs a bit but that dissipates within a few hours. Initial tack is a bit lower than ideal but I can live with it. In thin quantities it cures pretty fast. Just hope it doesn't cure in the nozzle -- I only need to use a few ml at a time so a tube's going to last some time!

Now I have to finish the current order that's on the bench before I do a proper dress rehearsal. How boring.

[mikesc]

It does have tendency to "air cure" in the nozzle.. pressure guns force the "plug" out with a couple of very quick "blips" on the trigger..you can slow the curing right down if you keep the tube in the fridge in the coldest part..But not in the freezer..IME ( depending on the brand ) tube life if kept in the fridge when not in use is about 6 months..left in "atelier" temp ( here it has been over 25°c for a while now ) tube life is about 15 to 30 days..I have an atelier fridge just for chemical stuff ( and atelier beer ) ..keeps the peace with Mdme :)..The less air that can get to the tube contents, via the nozzle, the longer it will last, but it does sort of "chain react " backwards into the tube once air has got to any in the nozzle. You could try clearing the nozzle ( in the USA you'd just buy a load of nozzles, they are dirt cheap there ) and finding a screw on top for the tube..very airtight, or, a not quite so tight one, but put some cling film on the outlet before you screw it on..or wrap PTFE tape around the end before screwing a top on..

Humidity also makes it cure faster..rainy days it will go "off" quicker.

Edited August 2, 2019 by mikesc

[Rockoboy]

On ‎8‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 10:07 PM, Matt S said:

I only need to use a few ml at a time so a tube's going to last some time!

When I have a part tube of silicone or something similar, to stop it curing in the tube, I screw a wood screw into the nozzle while the contents are still tacky to form a seal. Sometimes, if I can be bothered walking into the house to get some, I will also wrap plastic film (locally called Glad wrap, but same as Saran wrap for those who use that terminology). I have some tubes of gap filler, construction adhesive and silicone that are more than 2 years old and still good-to-go.

[Smartee]

Like Rockoboy said - we use a wood screw in the nozzle then use a screw gun to get it out if it "freezes" in place.