Whetstone ID question

[Haellyn]

My dad found an old whetstone in his parents' house and brought it home. It says "Norton Alundum Oilstone" on the box and looks like this (not my picture, but it's definitely the same stone). From what little info I could find, it seems it may have been manufactured somewhere between 1910-1935? It's in pretty good shape overall, just need a bit of a wash.

Any chance anyone can tell me more about it? Is it worth cleaning up a bit and keeping for sharpening purposes?

[LatigoAmigo]

Actual image posts are better than links, which can sometimes go away, so here is that image...

[zuludog]

I inherited an oilstone which, if not as old as that, was in a similar state

I cleaned it by soaking it in paraffin/kerosene overnight, then scrubbing it with a nylon pan scourer. I used an old plastic food container as a bath to submerge the stone. You could probably use any similar solvent - mineral thinners, petrol, and so son

Traditionally carpenters made their own wooden case for an oilstone, but I didn't have the skill or the patience for that so I just bought a plastic one off Amazon They are usually 8" X 2" but check

As the stone will have been cleaned of all the old oil & grease it will soak up a fair amount of oil at first, but this soon slows down

It's certainly worth keeping and trying it out

Search YouTube for 'cleaning an oilstone'; there are several videos

Edited September 11, 2019 by zuludog

[mikesc]

It might also require "truing up" again..( making the faces flat )..get yourself a piece of heavy glass ( bathroom shelf glass will do, but it will be ruined when you have finished ; ) ..and some abrasive compound that is the same "grain"* as the stone, Then you put the compound on the glass, add some water ( a little does it ) to make a "slurry", and you place the stone face down into the slurry, then you begin with light pressure ( with your hand ) on the face of the stone that is upward towards you ) rubbing the stone in the slurry in circles..You'll see the "hollows" if the stone has any ( when you upturn it ) ..they'll be full of "compound"..turn the stone face down again and continue, slowly..until there are no hollows..Then do the same with the face that you were holding onto..and the smaller faces ( the long sides ) if you are going to use them.."Zen" thing to do :)

How do you know what "grain" your stone has ..? It may be marked on the box..if not ..take it to a cabinet maker ( not a carpenter ) and ask them, they'll know by looking at it ,and touching it.

Edited September 11, 2019 by mikesc

[Haellyn]

Thanks for the cleaning suggestions! I was able to take a couple pictures of mine now. It was still in the original plastic wrapping and no marks on it, so we're pretty sure it's never been used. Unfortunately, no grain numbers on the box, so thanks for the tip on taking it to a cabinet maker.

[mikesc]

If it was never used, you are fortunate..older stones tend to be much better quality than more recent ones..
Guessing based on photos on internet pages about "grain", is something that I would never advise..and I'm going to ignore my own advice and stick my neck out ( may be totally incorrect here ) ..Aluminium Oxide ( Ruby powder composite type stone )*..grain seems "fine" ..could be 400, 600, 800..I'd be inclined to say more likely 800..But take it to a cabinet maker ..seeing and touching is "all".

*I've done some sculptures in what is called Ruby stone ..the kind that ruby ( gem crystals come from ) hardness is a half a point under diamond..has to be worked with diamond tools..awkward to work..very time consuming if you are not making flat faceted shapes..usually it is worked small ( under 30 mm ) I work larger 50mm average upto 80-100 mm..non faceted stuff takes forever to polish it with diamond tools and diamond powders..weighs in carats..the more carats , the more valuable the piece.. A lot of the smaller pieces are sculpted by hand in India..ruby jewellery is valued in India..frequently Ganesh is the subject..When you make the sculptures you get a lot of Aluminium Oxide dust..far too much :)..

I have some composite Oil stones, one face 400 the other 800, and one face 600 the other face 1200 etc..Usually the two faces are different colours..Aluminium Oxide ( Corundum ) can make many colours depending on impurities etc..Ruby and Sapphire are the two best known colours.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corundum
I still have around 2 kilos or so of uncut/ unsculpted "raw corundum"..the "raw" stone is not expensive at all..it only becomes so when it has been worked into sculptures or gemstones..or turned into abrasives.The dust from my Corundum "raw" stones is reddish grey , because the corundum which is red is mixed ( looks similar to the way that red granite is, "flecked" with other coloured crystals ) with a much softer black stone as crystals..Sculpting is done by grinding with diamond faced and diamond tipped tools, so both colours turn to "grind dust"..covers everything in pale reddish grey dust.a respirator "anti dust" mask ( not the paper kind ) is obligatory..

Edited September 12, 2019 by mikesc
typos

[zuludog]

I forgot to mention flattening the stone. I used a sheet of 100 grit wet & dry paper on a sheet of glass, which was the oven door from an old cooker. I lubricated everything with paraffin which stuck the paper down onto the glass and lubricated the cutting/flattening process

The paraffin kept the dust down so there was no need to use a mask

Fortunately my stone was in fairly good condition so it needed very little flattening, just enough to remove any ingrained dirt or metal particles

After flattening I washed any loose powder off the stone then laid it on old rags & newspaper overnight to allow any paraffin to drain off

[WoodysWorkshop]

I'm a huge fan of Norton Wet Stones. ANY Norton stone, especially an old one like yours is a prize, gem, and honor to have.

If it was mine, I'm not sure I would use it. I might display it in a clear plastic box of some kind with some Old Timer Knives I have.

If you do a lot of sharpening, I use the DMT 10" diamond stones. They are 2 sided and come variations.

I have one with X Course & Course, and another one with Fine & X Fine. I use these everything. I don't use the X Course much unless a blade or chisel needs shaped. Mostly the Course and fine grits get the edge where I need it to move to the Norton Wet Stones. I don't use the 220 grit at since I have the diamond stones. But work my way through the 1000, 4000 & finish with the 8000 grit.

Then I move to a hard strop I made with White compound, and maybe blue. Mostly use the blue on my straight razor.

The strop is just a piece of Veggie Tanned leather glued to a piece of 1x4 about 9" long. Flattened the wood similar to the way you did your Norton Oil Stone before I glued the leather on.

Have you figured out what grits the stone are? My father had one black on one side and red on the other. Black was like the X Course Diamond stone where red was more like the Course.

I would guess his was made for axe's and hatchet's where fast removal and a quick and frequent edge was needed. Not something that needed to split hairs.

I use the hard strop to touch up my Xacto blades all the time. That's what I use mostly to cut leather and in flying model rocket builds.

You have a nice piece of history, and family heirloom and story that goes with it to hand down.