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Posted

It's not with me yet...attached are photos. I'm 99% sure tbe shuttle was there when I first saw it (was distracted by picking up 8 antique side saddles), so I'm making sure shuttle is there. It has no rust thoughts appreciated

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Posted

Landis update and a boat load of questions herein:

"She" and her champion companion are now home...much assistance needed from hubby and the farm tractor.  All is well : )

I'll upload pics and will try to upload pics of interesting letters from 1925 and 1940 (orders from Landis) from the original owner.  They are pretty cool.  I also have the original manual, and have made a good quality copy of it.  I'll PDF that and make it available for all as soon as the work copier decides to give in and send the file.

So, the serial number is #4843.  She came with two packs of original needles!  One part is cracked, but I have an OK work around (it's the part labeled #14 if you have the head diagram) this cracked part leads me to ask WHY is that part 2 pieces instead of one piece?  Why should it be able to pivot upwards?  isn't it just for lifting the presser foot? 

As of last night, she got a good scrub with cleaner recommended by my machinist brother--simply had no choice because of grime--and was re-lubricated.  I also spent a good amount of time getting the stitch length knob to cooperate with the spring and mechanism on the off side.  I think it's finally ok, but I did scratch the knob with a set of vice grips :-( but didn't have much of a choice to get it moving.  How easy should this turn?  and should it be a "dial" versus "click" kind of adjustment--meaning you have incremental ability to adjust not just set "clicks" of stitches per inch? 

As I start to sew, likely starting tonight, what thread and fabric would you recommend as a first trial?  heavy denim?  don't really have scrap leather I want to sacrifice at this point.  I have some thread that came with it, but will prob just hang on to that for nostalgic reasons.  This brings  me to another observation--the part #48 (boiler, complete) is full of bizarre black tar looking stuff.  I can scrape it out with a screwdriver--and I'm assuming I should, right?  it's almost glass like on the top, and black gooey blob underneath that. 

The champion: 

I've started the cleaning and oiling process and it cranks through as it should but will need some TLC and tweaking here and there.  I actually think this thing may work!  I would be so super happy if I managed to get it working.  I have a few parts to go over of course, and the grime and grit on it is intense, so I will need to REALLY scrub it.  The awl and hook from the bobbin side is still there.  Looks like the bobbin assembly is too, but I need to read the book before I know how to correctly remove it. The thing is darn cool actually.  It takes a lot of muscle to get it to turn and I only did it a few times after lubrication , but hopefully with proper cleaning it will be easier.  Not sure how tight it should be since it's motor driven.  Regardless, it's fun to see how it works!

 

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Posted
7 hours ago, amandabstewart said:

One part is cracked, but I have an OK work around (it's the part labeled #14 if you have the head diagram) this cracked part leads me to ask WHY is that part 2 pieces instead of one piece?  Why should it be able to pivot upwards?  isn't it just for lifting the presser foot? 

Most I have seen were one solid piece, a few pivot.  I'm not sure at what point in time it was changed, nor why.

 

7 hours ago, amandabstewart said:

I think it's finally ok, but I did scratch the knob with a set of vice grips :-( but didn't have much of a choice to get it moving.  How easy should this turn?  and should it be a "dial" versus "click" kind of adjustment--meaning you have incremental ability to adjust not just set "clicks" of stitches per inch

To change the stitch length, you are suppose to put a screwdriver between the cam wheel #26 and the feed regulating arm #29 and pry to release the pressure on the ratchet nut.  The handle on the hand wheel must be at the bottom when you do this.  Sometimes on machine that has set for a long time, things are stuck and won't release. I have one I'm tearing apart right now that was completely stuck, and I can turn the feed regulator screw, but can't pry the arm #29 to release pressure.  But it'll come eventually.  If done correctly, there should be no clicking when you turn that screw.

7 hours ago, amandabstewart said:

As I start to sew, likely starting tonight, what thread and fabric would you recommend as a first trial?  heavy denim?  don't really have scrap leather I want to sacrifice at this point.  

You need to have 3/16"- 1/4" of leather under the foot to be able to set this machine up.  It was not made to sew lightweight stuff.  When tuned and tight, they'll sew an inch.

 

7 hours ago, amandabstewart said:

This brings  me to another observation--the part #48 (boiler, complete) is full of bizarre black tar looking stuff.  I can scrape it out with a screwdriver--and I'm assuming I should, right?  it's almost glass like on the top, and black gooey blob underneath that. 

That is hard wax.  Scrape out what you can, oven cleaner works to soften the rest up, but it takes awhile and repeated applications.

Best of luck, I am having fun following your progress.

  • Moderator
Posted
10 hours ago, amandabstewart said:

what thread and fabric would you recommend as a first trial?  heavy denim?

These old harness stitchers were made before synthetic thread was available. They were built to tension linen thread run through a wax pot containing hot or liquid beeswax. The wax hardens after a while, both inside the pot and on the thread. Waxed linen thread can withstand decades of use and abuse and still hold leather items together.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted

Big Sioux (sorry I can't figure out how to easily do the multiple quote boxes like you did)

Can I post the book here as a pdf?  I've always been an internet "taker"....so time to be  "giver" as the copy I have is very clear. 

I actually did the screwdriver method before I read that in the book...and I can adjust it easily when I do that.  Too bad I scratched the knob :( stupid, stupid me!  it's ok, but, really, I know better!

I'll grab some scrap leather...even considering disassembly of a crappy western saddle to use the fender leather.  I also do a lot of wool felting and fulling--to 1" or so...so it will be neat to see how it handles sewing hard wool to leather. 

Any idea of age based on SN 4843?  The book says 1936, but I have letters from '25.

I have about 13 needles!  10 size 2 and 3 size 3 I think, plus one that was in the machine when I got it.  I'll send pics of the original packaging and these super neat letters from 1925 and 1940.  I love knowing about where these machines were in their first lives!  Interestingly enough, my first thought is that this old guy must have sold the useful ones, kept the singer for nostalgia, and parked the landis and champion in his basement and barn because they were likely missing parts, etc, thus boat anchors.  I think I was very wrong....it seems maybe he kept his favorite ones?  It's like he used them...and then time stopped.  This is why they aren't rusty I guess.  There appear to be no marks from inappropriate use.  If the family parts with that Singer--I may need to sneak there in the dark of night as hubby is probably at his toleration point.  (cast iron gear/cam based loom called the Weaver's Delight on the front porch...need I say more)

Lord knows I'm crazy, but how much would I adore having the original burner that heated the boiler?  Flames + cast iron machine = :) in my book.  Seems like the ones I've seen pics of don't have that boiler attached at all.  I guess that could give you more room for sewing cylindrical items though. 

 

Wizcrafts:  so the needle would pierce the leather, dip into the wax pot below, and then go back up, correct?  I did read the instructions for waxing the bobbin thread.  Very interesting!  I'm an avid hand spinner--wools, silks, etc,--but haven't tried linen although I do have a set up that should work for linen.  NOW I'm considering doing a linen 2-ply just to see if I can do it.  Even if I only did it once, it would be so neat to do it 100% the old way at least once.  I'm a little surprised that waxed linen lasts that long.  I do have some OLD OLD side saddles, and the panels are thin leather on top and linen on the "horse side."  However, this linen fabric doesn't look linen at all--it looks like cotton ticking fabric.  I'll look more carefully at what thread was on it, but the bobbin looks linen-ish to me.  Same as what's in the Champion's top thread...

 

I GREATLY appreciate the help and encouragement you guys are providing.  I am probably considered a little young to do these crazy things (my family understands a little...anyone crazy enough to call me a friend thinks I'm nuts OR they are even weirder and want to play with the antique toys)...so the experience you guys have is so valuable to me.  I am at that age where I realize that people can't nail 2 boards together...and most people have ZERO skills.  Thus, I'm watching all of this expertise die away as people in their 80s and 90s all pass :( I didn't even realize there was a really old guy here in WV that passed last year...apparently, saddle maker for decades, and he had a Landis.  We never know about these people until it's too late!  This is why--to my hubby's dismay--that I do dedicate time to getting some of my equipment out at festival demos...especially my old sock knitter.  Kids (and mostly men) love that crazy thing and love to watch it work...and at least the skill isn't entirely dead.  I wish there was a festival for ALL of this stuff. 

I've always wanted a stitcher like this--and it just sort of happened.  Now with my intense desire to ride side saddle again as an adult, and realizing I can't afford what I need AT ALL, I'm now down a very deep rabbit hole...

I can't thank you guys enough! will try to get pics asap. 

 

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Posted
2 hours ago, amandabstewart said:

Wizcrafts:  so the needle would pierce the leather, dip into the wax pot below, and then go back up, correct?

Here is a link to a Landis 1 manual topic, posted by our member, Uwe, who scanned an original Landis 1 manual and posted it on the forum.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, amandabstewart said:

Any idea of age based on SN 4843?  The book says 1936, but I have letters from '25.

There is so little information about the early years of the company, and as far as I know, no surviving records of machine serial numbers in reference to the year of manufacture.  Your best bet would be if someone happens to have original documentation for a machine, and honestly, I would love to hear about that as well.  A friend and I were just talking the other day about how interesting it would be to know the history of our machines: date of manufacture, original purchaser, etc.

#2 and 3 needles are pretty large, and would not be used for general harness work.  A #4 needle was the most common size used for general work, as evidenced by the scarcity of original needles in that size.  #5 needles would be used for a little lighter work, while #6 and 7 for very fine work with light thread. New needles are available that will work in the machine, but they are somewhat different than the originals, and require some modification for heavier work.  The top part of the shank diameter is smaller than the originals, and will more easily pull out of the machine in heavy work.  It's not a good thing when that happens.

I have two original lamps for the Landis #1 machines, and a couple of my machines still have the boilers on them.  Once people quit using had wax, the boiler was something that could be dispensed with to reduce weight when moving the machine.  There were small wax pots that were factory made for solution wax, and attached to the left of the tension plates under the bolt that goes through the pressure foot spring.  

8 hours ago, amandabstewart said:

I've always wanted a stitcher like this--and it just sort of happened.  Now with my intense desire to ride side saddle again as an adult, and realizing I can't afford what I need AT ALL, I'm now down a very deep rabbit hole...

My dear, you have no idea how deep that rabbit hole is!! :lol:

Edited by Big Sioux Saddlery
  • 4 weeks later...
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Posted (edited)

I'd love to have a good copy of a manual, but there's no way in hell I'm interested in paying $50!!:lol:  I'll keep on with my old copy with the grainy pictures!

I'll have to go see what my serial number is, mine came from a guy in Kansas.

John

Edited by Hansons Carriage

I'm so far behind, I think I'm ahead!

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