HaloJones Report post Posted September 21, 2019 So I decided that I want some brogues, I thought I would share my process here, not because I am an expert (these will be my 3rd pair of shoes) but as any pointers / advice will be welcome I started with making a pattern, (good old craft foam) I plan on the shoes being tri-colour, so the orange foam will be black, the green a light silver & the blue a dark silver. Using the foam pattern I have cut veg tan calf (to be died black & silver) and some chrome tan I had in the right colour, all leather is about 1.2mm thick I was unable to find randing (not sure if this is the right word) so I made my own; I used a veg-tan belt blank I had, dyed it black & stitched with a 1mm waxed thread in a silver/grey colour) Inner soles are Texton board with a foam padding & micro-fiber lining Shoe lining for the rear section is also made from the same micro-fiber material I am waiting on delivery of a brogue punch (due in a week or so from Russia) to the do the brogue hole pattern The next steps as I see them are: Punch brogue pattern Dye leather Sew heel cap to rear section Sew front sections together Cut front section lining Form shoe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted September 21, 2019 Very interesting, what sort of soles are you going to use andare you following instructions from any tutorial of just your own idea Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted September 21, 2019 Soles will be 2 layers of 3mm leather. I did a shoe making course with “I can make shoes” for the basics, the rest I am making it up as I go Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted September 29, 2019 So while waiting for the brogue punch I have done samples for the dark silver colour, its equal parts eco-flo black, silver & pearl. The finish on the dye is streaky as i used a plastic brush for application; final will be better applied I then did some test sewing to see what size thread I like the look of; I chose the 0.3mm thread - 2nd from left. Happy with the stitches I have sewn the (dyed & burnished) tongue to the mid-upper section Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
battlemunky Report post Posted September 29, 2019 Looking awesome so far! Keep em' coming! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted October 14, 2019 So at last my new punch has arrived Its a nice bit of kit - it has 5 punch tubes but they can be removed individually, so i can make it a 3 hole for curved lines etc ! Now to get all the bits punched. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted October 15, 2019 this is fun... and looking like you know what you are doing, so far...but then, I've never made a shoe so...I'm here to learn and admire! YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted October 15, 2019 17 hours ago, YinTx said: looking like you know what you are doing, so far... YinTx It’s all a facade Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted October 15, 2019 1 hour ago, HaloJones said: It’s all a facade Pretty dang good one then. still watching... YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted October 19, 2019 So all holes now punched time to dye the pieces Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alexitbe Report post Posted October 19, 2019 On 10/14/2019 at 10:39 PM, HaloJones said: So at last my new punch has arrived Its a nice bit of kit - it has 5 punch tubes but they can be removed individually, so i can make it a 3 hole for curved lines etc ! Now to get all the bits punched. Hi HaloJones, Can you give a link to where you bought the brogueing tool? It looks quite a useful tool... I bet it saves lots of time Thanks alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted October 20, 2019 16 hours ago, alexitbe said: Hi HaloJones, Can you give a link to where you bought the brogueing tool? It looks quite a useful tool... I bet it saves lots of time Thanks alex Alex, I got it from chap in Russia, google translated this page & sent him a message - he speaks good English, paid via Paypal & arrived 3 wks later https://www.livemaster.ru/toolsandtoys Only other place i have seen them is KS Tools in USA Parts all dyed, now for some assembly Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alexitbe Report post Posted October 20, 2019 Thank you very much... I am trying to make shoes too and it would be nice to be able to do simple broguing Your shoes look like they are coming along nicely... I am folling this thread with interest. Cheers alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted October 23, 2019 Rear section of the upper is complete: heel cap & liner stitched on, lacing eyelets fixed Liner is over-sized on the sides as it will be sewn to the front section upper liner, the excess liner at the top is used to give a fixing point to the last. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted October 23, 2019 Toe & front section sewn together & lined Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted October 23, 2019 Uppers & liners sewn together - ready for lasting Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
arashikage Report post Posted October 24, 2019 Looking good! Did you use pinking shears to make the gimping? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted October 24, 2019 4 hours ago, arashikage said: Looking good! Did you use pinking shears to make the gimping? Yes I did Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted October 25, 2019 So put the uppers on the last only to realise that the heel cap was way too low down and that 70% of it would be cut off! so I un-picked the stitching & now to get some more of the thread used (the 30m I brought has just run out!) & try again.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted November 3, 2019 Heel cap moved up & upper & liner lasted, now for the sole Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted November 21, 2019 So I put soles on & took the shoes off the last, the results were not as I hoped, the shoes has come up very wide, but I know where I went wrong & will try again (photo shows unfinished shoe as I would normally trim the lining at the top & dye the sole & heel) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted November 21, 2019 Could you post a picture side on of just the last?I am curious to see the shape that you are starting with. The quarters look to be too high on where they connect to your vamp and the backward angle of your heel counter also makes me think this. Also I think your top line pattern may be too high on your last giving you an oversized upper to try and deal with. I must congratulate you on your efforts so far and thank you for sharing your journey with us all on here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted November 22, 2019 Lasts as below, I think where I went wrong was the inner sole I made was too wide at the waist & I did not pull the upper tight enough on the last, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted November 22, 2019 Thanks ...the lasts look alright. When you do your toe 1st pulling you should see the heel counter cup in around at the top line. It appears to me that your curve has not enough swell at the lower side compared to the top but that may be just the picture perhaps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaloJones Report post Posted November 22, 2019 Thanks RockyA Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
