Members dikman Posted January 1, 2020 Members Report Posted January 1, 2020 It's taken me a while to figure out what ljk was talking about but now I see.Very clever. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
ljk Posted January 1, 2020 Report Posted January 1, 2020 I tried to download a video but it was giving me chest pains so I did a picture. I will cover a few issues. I believe most patchers load (pierce) at the same point regardless of stitch length. Therefore once you adjust the piercing point to match the needle your good to go. If you will notice the pierce is is along side the needle hole. that can be adjusted by moving the foot side to side slightly or rotating the screw slightly. I usually use a set screw vs the shown screw. The screw shown can interfere with the needle bar in some rotational places. The teflon on the throat plate is simply rough sanded cleaned with acetate and glued on. I use Seal All contact cement good stuff. This goes back 25 years ago when we had a fad going at mc shows with unlined mc vests and I was having feeding problems doing pockets, that 29-4 still has that teflon on the plate. Early Machines 29-4 and 30-1 feet may need to raised a little by grinding the foot.. Later model Adler or Singer will work well with this mod, as will the chinese varieties. The ultimate would be a Claes Model 30 (1/4 stitch length 1/2 lift) The handcrank chinese shoe patches is the easiest to modify because of high lift and long stitch capabilities. The ultimate conversion would be a tiny tool steel tube around the needle allowing good vision with a open foot. Quote
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