Members thenrie Posted January 11, 2020 Members Report Posted January 11, 2020 (edited) Hey folks. I picked up a 111W155 yesterday for $25. Couldn't pass it up. As you can guess, it needs a refurb, as it has been stored outside for quite some time. I've refurbished a couple machine lathes, so I didn't shy away from a little surface rust on this machine. I have completely disassembled the machine and am getting ready to soak everything in Evap-O-Rust, before I polish up the shafts and pretty parts. I need to replace the two ball bearings on the arm shaft. The number on the bearings is Federal 12022A. I haven't been able to find that bearing or a crossover number for any other manufacturer . Anybody know what replacement bearing works? I haven't taken actual measurements on them yet, but thought I'd ask and see if somebody already knows what works. Also, I have quite a bit of felt for oil wicks leftover from the metal lathe refurbs. The sewing machine seems to have some sort of fiber wicks and cloth string wicks. Anybody see any problem with me replacing those wicks with felt? I need to replace the tensioner and hook assembly. Will the 111W155 take the large bobbin modification I've seen done on the Consew? Figured that while I have the machine apart, and since I have to buy a new hook assembly anyway, it wouldn't be much of a problem to do the mod...if it will work on the Singer. Seems like the Singer bobbins are pretty small for the larger thread for leatherwork. Cowboy Bob, I hope you are still watching the forum. I'm pretty sure I'll be calling on you for a couple other parts. Once I start reassembling everything, I'm sure I'll need some coaching on the setup and tuning. Sorry, no photo. I still haven't figured out how to post photos on this forum. I'll try again later. Edited January 11, 2020 by thenrie change photo Quote Tony Henrie westerntrailrider.com
Members thenrie Posted January 11, 2020 Author Members Report Posted January 11, 2020 Quote Tony Henrie westerntrailrider.com
CowboyBob Posted January 11, 2020 Report Posted January 11, 2020 Sounds like a lot of fun.Yes,the wicks you have will work.On the Singer you have to mill down the top of the hook basket so much that you hit the screw that holds the upper bushing in,if you got a different hook saddle from a Consew or Juki a large bobbin will work w/o any work but you will still have to mill the small bobbin one from either brand. Quote Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd. 3631 Marine Rd Toledo,Ohio 43609 1-866-362-7397
Members thenrie Posted January 11, 2020 Author Members Report Posted January 11, 2020 Thanks for the reply, Cowboy Bob. I guess I'll put this one back together with the small bobbin and just look around for a Juki large basket and maybe do the mod later on...if I decide it would be useful. Any info re the ball bearings? Quote Tony Henrie westerntrailrider.com
CowboyBob Posted January 13, 2020 Report Posted January 13, 2020 On 1/11/2020 at 4:57 PM, thenrie said: Thanks for the reply, Cowboy Bob. I guess I'll put this one back together with the small bobbin and just look around for a Juki large basket and maybe do the mod later on...if I decide it would be useful. Any info re the ball bearings? Tony,Yes,I can get the bearing. Quote Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd. 3631 Marine Rd Toledo,Ohio 43609 1-866-362-7397
Members thenrie Posted January 16, 2020 Author Members Report Posted January 16, 2020 I was able to find a supplier on eBay that had two new-old stock Federal 1202SA bearings. Just received them today. Got the machine completely disassembled, all the parts de-rusted and cleaned up, and ready to reassemble. I'm quite pleased with the way everything came out. No serious pitting and no appreciable wear that I can find in the shafts and bushings. The bobbin cup and saddle cleaned up and polished nicely. Ordered a new tensioner assembly and bobbin winder, should be here tomorrow. I ordered a package each of 135/16 and 135/17 needles. After reading a bunch of different threads on the forum, I am thinking I'll be using #69 and #138 thread for most of my projects, but also read that my machine will handle #207 with a #24 needle if I am careful. What is your take on this? I'm getting ready to make an order for thread and needles and wondering whether I would be wasting money/time messing with the #207 on my 111W155. My leatherwork includes items like custom bridles, spur straps, knife sheaths, holsters, chaps, etc, and saddlery, up to now all hand-stitched, but with this machine I hope also to get a little into garments, such as vests. I know the machine is light for heavy saddle skirts, but I was hoping that with the #207 thread it might work. I am not a heavy volume shop and saddle skirts take me forever. Just can't afford a Tippman Boss yet. Quote Tony Henrie westerntrailrider.com
Members thenrie Posted January 18, 2020 Author Members Report Posted January 18, 2020 (edited) Well, I have the machine back together. Now to get everything properly set up and timed. I can tell this is going to take some time and a lot of trial and error. So, I have some questions for some of you who are familiar with the 111W machines or similar industrial triple-feed machines. - Is there a proper order-of-operations for setting up and timing these machines? Again, I completely disassembled the entire machine, cleaned all the parts, and reassembled it. The military manual linked on another thread details how to set the individual processes, but no order-of-operations. - My hook basket assembly has a little up-down movement in it. Should I tighten it up by moving the lower bushing up to reduce clearance between the hook gear and the bushings to remove said slop or is a little slop allowable? - How do the hook assembly and bobbin case function? I have to replace the bobbin opener, so I need to make sure the replacement fits properly. I have a good description on how to time the hook to the needle. - Is there a proper parts diagram, showing how all the parts relate, such as a blowup, available for the 111W155? I have the one linked on one of the threads here, but it is not clear on some parts and the photocopy quality is poor. I also have the military manual linked on one of the threads. It's much better. Edited January 18, 2020 by thenrie Quote Tony Henrie westerntrailrider.com
Members thenrie Posted January 19, 2020 Author Members Report Posted January 19, 2020 I have the needle height set, the feed dog set, the needle centered in the dog hole, and the needle timed to the hook. However, both the inside and outside feet are out of adjustment. I can't find anything that tells me how to set the timing on the feet. The inside foot is close, but the outside foot is not lifting high enough. It's just barely releasing pressure. I figure it's just going to be a matter of fiddling with the cam on the arm shaft until I get it right. One thing that concerns me, though, is that the machine felt smooth until I installed the new belt. Now it feels way tighter than I expected. I replaced the ball bearings and they are smooth, so that's not the problem. I expected it to be tight, but not like this. It was a cheap $12 belt. Could it be too small? Will it wear-in and loosen up a bit with use or is that normal? Quote Tony Henrie westerntrailrider.com
Members Pintodeluxe Posted January 19, 2020 Members Report Posted January 19, 2020 Look for a video by Ewe here or on YouTube on the Consew 225 adjustments. It should be similar on your machine. Basically you'll turn the handwheel until the needle arrives at the material. Then loosen a screw at the top rear of the machine to equalize the feet. All this assumes the internal belt replacement went off without a hitch. Quote
Members thenrie Posted January 19, 2020 Author Members Report Posted January 19, 2020 Thanks. Found it the video. Should do the trick. I'll post a few pics once I get things finished and tested. Now on to refurbing the motor! Quote Tony Henrie westerntrailrider.com
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