getting perfectly smoothe inside curves

[Regis]

I'm having difficulty cutting/getting perfectly smoothe inside curves. This really shows up much worse when I mark a border or sewing grove. It seems that no matter how slow or carefully I cut, there are small irregularities along the edge of inside curves and on tight outside curves. Then running an edger seems to make those irregularities "pop out".

What do you use to cut these curves? Are radius punches the only way short of a clicker?

Any tips appreciated.

Regis

[Dan Hammons]

Although I;m getting better I have the same problem at times . I have used my leather shears or my French edger to clean up the edge. I have also free handed a bad spot when it came to stiching an item together and cleaned up the edge later. I'm sure we will get some good advice on this and I'll be watching for some pointers.

[Michael Sheldon]

What are you using to cut with?

I use a head knife for almost all my cutting and can get some good curves by rolling onto the point of the knife.

For REALLY sharp curves, I use a punch or strap end cutter of the proper diameter to punch the apex of the curve, then use the knife to cut the rest.

[Beaverslayer]

Like Michael, I use diferent sizes of punches for the inside curves, and the sharp outside ones I use a Doctors Scalpel, the real thing...they are VERY sharp.

Ken

[CitizenKate]

I ran into this problem awhile back, and although I liked the idea of using punches, some of my curves are a little complex and I could not buy enough punches for some of the curves I was doing. I chose to search for a good, all purpose pattern cutting knife. I think a round knife is probably the best solution, but not being near any dealers (so I could try them out before investing the money, as they are somewhat of an investment) I decided to see what else would also work.

The knife I use now for cutting pattern pieces, and get fairly nice results with (i.e. nice clean-cut edges), is an X-acto #5 heavy-duty knife. (Click here to see one.) I'm still using the original #19 blade that came with it; I just keep stropping it, and it has held up quite well so far.

By the way, I'm using this mostly on 5-6 oz. leather and lighter. For the lighter weights, you may want to experiment with the small-diameter rotary cutters.

Kate

Edited September 2, 2007 by CitizenKate

[Regis]

Thanks everyone for the tips. Kate, I have the same X-acto and will give it a try. I like the idea of stropping that x-acto blade too. Are you using it for pattern or leather too?

Regis

[Luke Hatley]

wristband looks great..

For more control and ease of cutting

try the new X-acto knife x2000.

i got mine at Hobby Lobby.

[CitizenKate]

Luke, what weight leather do you use that with?

Kate

wristband looks great..

For more control and ease of cutting

try the new X-acto knife x2000.

i got mine at Hobby Lobby.

[MatthewD]

How about a scalpel? I use that with some pretty good success, the handle is the most expensive part and you can get those from one of the biological supply places for about 3 dollars. I got on Ebay and found the blades for 13 dollars for 100 blades.. so if it gets dull.. toss it in the sharps container and get a new one..