Hand quality stitching on a machine

[sbrownn]

4 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

This was my finding also. I've owned two ULS machines and both produced awesome stitches. If one has a "stepping foot, the top stitches get pushed down on the ends,  giving them a rounded appearance. Unfortunately, there is no such attachment for the bottom (wouldn't that be awesome though?).

You can 3D print anything you can think of and I've printed both presser feet and throat plates.  Granted, they don't last as long as steel but it's surprising how long they do last.  The throat plate would probably be perfectly doable with a walking foot only machine; with a needle or awl feed machine probably not so much.  Are there any walking foot only feed machines?

[sbrownn]

6 hours ago, oltoot said:

IMHO if a Union Lock is properly adjusted and set up for the work, it makes prettier work, front and back than can be reasonably hand stitched. The 441s took over because they are much easier to mfg and learn to use and better for fabric than N&A

I would agree but with one caveat:  "reasonably" covers a lot of ground.  The "good guys" at hand stitching can make a stitch no machine can match but they are few and far between and unless they have some sort of reputation and high end clientele they can't make any money at it.  I'm looking for the middle ground; a machine stitch that is better than just pushing the pedal but a lot faster than sewing by hand.

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, sbrownn said:

I would agree but with one caveat:  "reasonably" covers a lot of ground.  The "good guys" at hand stitching can make a stitch no machine can match but they are few and far between and unless they have some sort of reputation and high end clientele they can't make any money at it.  I'm looking for the middle ground; a machine stitch that is better than just pushing the pedal but a lot faster than sewing by hand.

A Union Lockstitch machine sews 800 stitches per minute (15/second), flat out, with thick thread, into as much as 3/4 inch of leather. It gets the job done like few others can. A Campbell-Randall Lockstitch may produce a slightly better looking bottom stitch, but is slower, sewing only 300 or 400 spm.

Truth be told, none of my customers turn the work over to study the bottom stitch appearance.

[oltoot]

Go ULS!

[sbrownn]

19 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

A Union Lockstitch machine sews 800 stitches per minute (15/second), flat out, with thick thread, into as much as 3/4 inch of leather. It gets the job done like few others can. A Campbell-Randall Lockstitch may produce a slightly better looking bottom stitch, but is slower, sewing only 300 or 400 spm.

Truth be told, none of my customers turn the work over to study the bottom stitch appearance.

I understand.  Anyone looking for a different way to produce a quality of stitch that gets closer to hand stitching with less hand work certainly doesn't care as much about the number of stitches per minute and probably is more concerned with the backside appearance than 95% of our customers.  Most of my stitching, except for long straight runs, is done without using the motor at all.  My machine is over 100 years old and the stitch length control linkage has worn over the years to the point I don't trust it to be as accurate as pricked holes.  Before I make each individual stitch I make sure the awl is perfectly lined up with my pricked pattern.  It is time consuming to be sure but I find that I enjoy running the Campbell-Randall monster by hand and compared to hand stitching, well there really is no comparison on a time basis.  As I was pointing out, I have now progressed from just marking the hole locations with a pricking iron to actually punching them before I sew.  It adds another level of complexity to the process but I can see a difference that I feel makes it worthwhile for me to do on some items.  Do my customers notice?  Absolutely because I make sure I point it out to them.     

[sbrownn]

4 hours ago, oltoot said:

Go ULS!

Go Campbell Bosworth Cyclone.

[BigSiouxSaddlery]

2 hours ago, sbrownn said:

Go Campbell Bosworth Cyclone.

You know, that's a machine I don't have yet.  I've never even seen one, but I know a guy who runs more than one in his shop.  I'm thinking they are pure mechanical genius, or mechanical insanity, depending on whether they work or not.

[sbrownn]

On 1/29/2020 at 3:26 PM, BigSiouxSaddlery said:

You know, that's a machine I don't have yet.  I've never even seen one, but I know a guy who runs more than one in his shop.  I'm thinking they are pure mechanical genius, or mechanical insanity, depending on whether they work or not.

I've never seen one either and I don't care about sewing fast which was, I think, their claim to fame.  If I could find one to buy I would though.

[oltoot]

In a short period of time, I added a 2/1 speed reducer and separate motor for the bobbin winder so my current love for the ULS is this modified pkg.

[sbrownn]

7 hours ago, oltoot said:

In a short period of time, I added a 2/1 speed reducer and separate motor for the bobbin winder so my current love for the ULS is this modified pkg.

I have a servo and speed reducer on my Campbell-Randall but it's not quite enough torque for thick stuff at the speed I want to run (slow).  I'm thinking of adding a second speed reducer.  I have no experience with the ULS but I would love to have one.