Landis 30 splitter and Master Tools Leather Splitter

[Rannoch]

Are the Landis 30 (no longer in production as far as I can tell) and the Master Tools Leather Splitter the same machine?

I'm having trouble setting up my Landis 30, which is missing the two screws that are set on the back just below the blade.  I'm considering ordering the Master Tools gauge from Weaver to help set it up properly.  

Will the Master Tools splitter blade fit the Landis 30?

Thanks for your help.

[Transporter]

I too am looking for a blade for a Landis Model 30 blade primarily as a spare. If you become aware of a company carrying such a thing by any brand please let me know.

LANDIS MODEL 30 LEATHER SPLITTER OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS - SET UP & MAINTENANCE
Anyone familiar with the correct setting of the Landis Model 30 machines should experience few difficulties setting or aligning different makes/models stationary knife Splitters. Most other makes and models use an entirely different knife edge (sharpening) angle, and the specific knife edge (sharpening) angle for each machine make, has to be maintained.
OILING
Before using a Splitter all the bearings should be oiled and, in addition, some oil may be brushed on the teeth of the Splitter gears as proper lubrication is very important and necessary to prevent undue wear of moving parts. The various parts for oil to apply has been indicated on the oil chart. Note there are four bearing blocks, two at the left side of the frame and two at the right side. These bearing blocks support the top and bottom rolls. On the left side blocks you will find holes for oiling at the top of the block close to the edge. The oil holes on the right side bearing blocks are also at the top of the blocks and close to the body of the roll and these oil holes are reached from the inside of the frame. In addition, you will find four oil holes at the right side of the frame, three of them in the lower roll pivot plate, reference #33, and one in the end of the stud which journals the intermediate driving gear, reference #56. The oil holes in the pivot plate are, one at the pivot stud, two at the bearing of the hand crank shaft and the other at the bearing for the lower roll extension shaft.
GAUGING THICKNESS OF WORK
On the front of the Splitter you will note the Gauge Plate, ref. #6, which is graduated from 0 to 15. These graduation marks indicate the thickness of the work in irons that will be produced when feeding the Leather through the Splitter.
IN LEATHER THICKNESS MEASUREMENTS THERE ARE 48 IRONS PER INCH
Since 15 iron equal 5/16 inch thickness, being the heaviest work that can be handled on a model 30 Splitter. The upper roll of the Splitter is adjusted for various thicknesses of work by moving the adjusting bar operating lever, ref. #14, to the thickness required. This lever has an indicator pin which points to the gauge scale and a plunger, ref. #15, which engages a ratchet plate to hold the lever in set position. To move the lever the adjusting bar indicator plunger is first pulled out so as to disengage the ratchet teeth.
  
i don’t believe I can copy the rest to you in this style but if you are interested I could PDF it and send email. I found this article who knows where & copied it so am unable to advise how to find its original location.

[Thumper144]

See if Shoe Systems may be able to help you. I think I spoke to Blaze.  I can’t remember for sure but expect the blade to be around $100?
 

their number is 1 (800) 354-6278

[Transporter]

Thank you, I do not have possession of the model 30 yet as Corona has got in the way. I will call them.

 

[Transporter]

Rannoch

found the link: bookmaker.com

i think it’s what your after.

[Rannoch]

17 hours ago, Transporter said:

Rannoch

found the link: bookmaker.com

i think it’s what your after.

Thanks, Transporter.  I sent a question to Weaver asking if their Master Tool Leather Splitter blade will fit the Landis, but haven't heard back.

I took the machine apart, cleaned it, oiled the moving parts and put it back together again.  I would like to have an extra blade so I can send this one out for sharpening and still use the machine.  I polished the flat of the blade as directed, which helped a lot.  Fortunately, a local hardware store had one inch bolts that fit the threads of the holes on the back of the machine, so there's that fixed.

I wish there was a video out there that explained machine splitters as well as Phil Jury's video on the skiving machine over at leathercraftmasterclass.com.

I have a hankering to order the Cowboy class 14 splitter.  Does anyone have experience with the Landis 30 splitters and the larger Cowboy class 14?  Is the Cowboy worth it?  Can it split down to 1oz?

thanks for all the help!

[Transporter]

I have seen a short video on the Landis 30 on Utube recently. Since there is little else out there I believe you would find it helpful, I did.

[johnv474]

The Landis 30 is primarily for shoe repair. As such, it works best with firm soling and veg tan.  This is not the splitter for leather with much stretch.  Blades are hard to come by and run about $200.

 

A bell skiver can be used on soft leathers but isn't a splitter per se.

 

The Cowboy, I understand, has 3 models: a top feed, a bottom feed, and a combination.  The last one, which is the priciest, is capable of being used on almost anything.  I am not an expert but IIRC it was something like that.

Edited May 4, 2020 by johnv474

[24VOLTS]

I have been using my Landis 30 for the last 5 years.  It is a shoe repair machine.  My landis is a bit finicky.  I was able to purchase a blade from Pilgrim Shoe and sewing machine company.  but unfortunately they were bought by USM-Americas.com due to retirement of the owner.  I would give them a call and see if they still sell parts for the landis 30.  I paid $88 for a blade back in 2016.

I do split oil tan, chap leather, veg tan and English bridle with mine.  The key to setting up your machine is to make sure the top roller is even on each side.  I do it by eye.  Might be able to use a feeler gauge to help make sure its even.  My splitter also likes a fair amount of pressure from the top roller.  I do find when I switch blades it will have to adjusted since each blade is a different length.  The thinest consistent I've been able to split down to is 2oz.  Sometimes it will get down to 1 oz but it is hit and miss.   Keep your blade sharp and don't split a large amount all at once or the blade/knife will crack.  I sharpen my blades with a stone.   

I don't know of any splitter that will go down to 1 oz.  I believe the cobra splitter which is modeled after the landis 30 will split down to 2 oz.  They are guaranteed for life which will be my next purchase.  

Who ever you send your blade to for sharpening ask them if they make blades.  Some saw filers that sharpen blades also make them.

Phill

[CBarnett]

I purchased a Landis 30 this past week.  Took apart, cleaned and oiled.  Had blade sharpened by a man that sharpens my barber shears and I think I could shave my customers with it because it super sharp.  Got everything back together and it works like a charm.  I am splitting 4-5 oz leather to line wallets. I know there was years of oil and dirt built up, seemed like tar.  I would like to purchase an extra blade as spare, if you know where one might be found please let me know.

[Hasbeencowboy]

I just (about 3 months ago) bought a blade for my Landis 30 from Landis in Canada.  They have blades but that is all.   I forget what it cost me but whatever it was, it was worth it to me at the time.