How to STOP leather drying out ??

[Leathermann00b]

So im going to make a leather compendium out of veg tan leather, and plan to use Fiebing's leather dye, then finish with resolene.

Problem is, i've seen on a number of youtube video people saying alcohol dyes make the leather go stiff, which would be a problem with a compendium that needs to open and close frequently.

Is there something i can treat the leather with after dying, before (or after)  applying resolene, that will keep the leather soft?

I know people usually apply waxes or oils to condition leather, however im not sure if they can be applied after coating with resolene, and if applied prior, perhaps the resolene will not adhere properly?

Edited May 13, 2020 by Leathermann00b

[kiwican]

I have used pure neatsfoot oil on leather dyed using an oil based dye. Both before and after dyeing the piece. And have not had any issues with the leather drying out

[TomG]

I use 1 of 2 products. My standard is Leather Balm with Atom Wax. I rub it in heavy on the back not quite as heavy on the front. After each side, I roll it and flex it that turns my strap from stiff and dry to limber and flexible.
I've also used Mink Oil Paste with the same results. That also makes it a bit waterresistant as well.
 

[Bert51]

I make my own leather balm for more then 20 years and before that a friend used to make it for me. I have never had stitching rot out or leather fail.

If anything is have had a problem where it made the leather to soft it I use to much. I use it on everything I make through to my leather Motorbike Jacket.

It's made up of Lanolin, Neatsfoot Oil, Bee's wax and Pure Gum Turpentine.

If you where a bit closer I would give you some.

Bert.

[TomG]

I don't supposed that you'd want to share the recipe, would you?

[johnv474]

Leatherman00b, I suggest using the fiebing's Pro dyes, aka Oil dyes.  They are alcohol based, but the color is oil-based (think ink) instead of powdered color used in the regular dye (which is kind of like Kool Aid with made of powdered color and alcohol).  The alcohol is the drying out part.  The oil/pro dyes offset that by moisturizing the leather some.

 

Otherwise, use one of the weather conditioners that is liquid at room temperature.  Lexol conditioner is a safe choice.

 

Like with dyes, you want two light coats that fully dry/get absorbed before deciding if the color or conditioring level is adequate.  Leather absorbs, but slowly.  The next day the color may be lighter and less splotchy as it evens out.

 

[Bert51]

I got the recipe from a friend who has been making it for me for years. The best I could get out of him is this.

Put equal parts of Lanolin, Neatsfoot Oil and Bee's wax in an old saucepan and bowl like a double boiler, the Bee's Wax will be the last to melt, then add an equal part Pure Gum Turpentine.

Pure Gum Turpentine is not paint thinning turps, it's like the turps oil painters use. I often vary the amount of turps, in summer I add less and in winter or if the wax is harder or if the Lanolin is to thick. I have found it is not a hard and fast recipe as the wax and lanolin can vary, plus if you have a very cold winter you need to use more turps to make it softer.

After I make it, I place it in a jar before it cools, leave it for 24 hour, then push my finger into it, if it is to hard or to soft, I put the jar back into a pan of water on the stove and when it melts again, add more turps or more wax.

I use it on canvas to water proof it, as well as leather.

I have found, if I leave it to soak in to the leather, then polish it off it give the leather a nice shine and does not attract dirt and dust.

I hope this helps.

Bert.