How to set a copper rivet

[Johanna]

The title of a page before this one was "do it yourself saddle repair", so I couldn't resist looking.

How to set a rivet

This shows step-by-step how to set a copper rivet.

Johanna

[esantoro]

Thanks for this link, Johanna. After looking at the website, I went and bought a box of 3/4" copper rivets from OTB, figuring I could just trim them down to whatever size I need.

Ed

The title of a page before this one was "do it yourself saddle repair", so I couldn't resist looking.

How to set a rivet

This shows step-by-step how to set a copper rivet.

Johanna

[esantoro]

I've been playing around with these copper rivets and love 'em. When I set them I am completely sure they will hold through anything, not so with double-capped brass Jiffy rivets and capped tubular rivets.

I'm not too sure how the copper will mesh with my silver and brass hardware, so now I'm thinking about getting some solid brass rivets. Are they set the same way?

I did notice with the copper rivets that you really do have to trim the posts down to 1/16", maybe a smidgen less, for them to flatten properly.

[JohnD]

Not to hijack the thread but,

Ed, I ordered some rivets from here http://hansonrivet.com/w02.htm . It took me some time to figure out what I needed.I ended up calling them and the guy helped me figure out what I wanted. I think they were about $12.00 per hundred for the ones I ordered. The caps were about $4 per hundred.( check out the caps here http://hansonrivet.com/w05b.htm you can see how well designed thay are to hold the rivets). I guess not the cheapest, but when I put two pieces of leather strap together I could not pull them apart. If you know what you're looking for you can order exactly what you want, including brass or stainless. Hope this helps.

John

Oh yeah, don't buy the tool they sell for setting the rivets without a cap. It's like $25 and doesn't seem to work right, for me anyway.

Edited September 21, 2007 by JohnD

[esantoro]

Hi John,

Can you tell me exactly what head type and size of tubular rivets you ordered from Hansens. I was trying to work with them six months ago but they didn't have the sizes I needed. For steel tubular rivets I stuck with OTB, about $5 for 100 and about $4 for 100 caps (brass plated only, old stock at that).

Now I'm thinking of going with solid rivets. I like the method of using brute force to smash down the rivet post onto the burr. I get the feel that this is the strongest hold, especially for parts of my briefcases that have to bear a 30lbs load, though thick saddlestitching is also used in these areas. I want to make sure a rivet never pops out on a customer.

My only concern with the solid rivets is that the rivet backs on my straps and two locations on the back of the briefcase (unless I forgo rivets here) will be exposed, and the look of the smashed down post onto the burr is not the most elegant. I think I may have a solution though: use the solid brass rivets only on those areas that bear a load, three in the handle assembly (backs will be concealed under suede lining) and for each of the two shoulder strap D-ring fobs (if I really want to obsess, I could work out away to conceal this rivet back too, hmmmm). I would use the double-capped brass jiffy rivets in all other places.

I would also like to make a bag with copper rivets, but then I would also need copper plated double capped jiffys, and I'm not sure if they are even made.

Anyway, I'm calling Hansens tomorrow to get their prices on the solid brass rivets.

Ed

[Luke Hatley]

HEY STILL WORKING ON THAT R & D ARENT YOU.

IS IT POSSIBLE FOR YOU TO MOUNT THE COPPER RIVET

WITH THE WASHERS ON THE INSIDE ? FIND A WAY TO DO IT.

OK NOW... WHEN I WAS WORKING IN THE SADDLE SHOP, WE WOULD

PUT A LITTLE DECORATIVE TOUCH ON THE COPPER RIVETS WE SET.

THERE IS A TOOL THAT WILL GIVE THE HEAD OF THE

COPPER RIVET CONVEX PROFILE. WEAVER SELLS IT.

TRY IT, I THINK YOU WILL LIKE IT.

ANOTHER THING THAT WOULD BE GREAT ARE THE BRASS TUBE RIVETS

AND CAP I HAVE SEEN SOME THAT ARE VERY THIN

AND ALSO THERE ARE SOME THAT ARE HEAVY.

Edited September 21, 2007 by Luke Hatley

[esantoro]

Hi Luke,

I seem always to be doing R&D. I've been looking for brass tubular rivets. Ghurka seems to use a a very nice light-weight brass rivet, but I suppose they have them specially made.

Do you happen to know where to get those brass rivets you're talking about. All I have right now and am using on my bags in some places are the brass coated and nickel coated steel tubular rivets with caps. When I tried to check with Hansens and other industrial suppliers on the brass tubular rivets, sizes were limited, though Hansens was the most helpful. I'm calling them tomorrow.

ed

[Luke Hatley]

Ed, Hansens is a very large business, surley they will help.

the REAL BRASS RIVETS, i got them from STONEHEDGE LEATHER

bought them on e-bay. I think Joanne has mention them on this

fourm. There might be a link to them .

[Roger]

weaver sells solid brass tubular rivets and caps

[bruce johnson]

Just saw this thread, I set quite a lot of copper rivets. Someone mentioned the river head domer.

Shameless plug, I am in not way afilliated, etc. Bob Douglas makes a three piece set for each of the three common sizes. One sets the burr, one peens the shank after it is cut to length, and the third domes the head. There are a few things I would not do without, and my wife says the setters are one of 'em. My wife will tell other makers or look at something in a shop and comment that they should get a set from Bob. Some guys have said that the domer on Bob's will sometimes overlap a #9 head (I think it is sold as an 8/9?). I haven't had that problem with any of my #9s from a few different sources. The shanks on Bob's setter/peener/domer have one, two, and three grooves, so you can tell which order to pick them up if they are all laying together on the bench. You can order them from Bob, or Vandy sells them at Sheridan Leather Outfitters.

One thing I would differ on from the tutorial. If someone used my hoofnippers to cut rivets, I would be a bit upset. I used to use endcut nippers with longer handles. I started using compound action end nippers last year after I dislocated the thumb. Quite the deal, and now just bought a really cool old pair in an antique emporium ($5, it pays to look in those barrels) that are neater looking, bigger, and even easier.