Wrapping Horn

[rktaylor]

I have struggled a bit getting horn wraps as tight as I want them. I thought this was really tight, but this is what happened after the leather dried. Any clues to my problem? I thought the leather would tighten as it dried. Thanks for any tips.

Randy

[oltoot]

Final use of the "chinaman" (greased w/ liquid soap) and then repulling ends and smoothing before drying

[rktaylor]

Oltoot,

I thought I had some torque on my wrap handle (cut off pool cue), but maybe not enough. I did not use soap, but will give it a try. Everything looked really good while it was still wet. Thanks,

Randy

Edited August 18, 2020 by rktaylor

[DanC]

You are using the wrong stuff (leather)

You need to use RAWHIDE.  It needs to be soaked, then stretched around the horn and stitched in place then allowed to dry completely.  Then after several days apply a preservative of some kind.

Any book on saddle making - including YouTube - will show you how to wrap a saddle horn.  From form fitting leather to the shape of the horn to stitching it up the back side.  I don't think simple wrapping will do.  It will never lay "flat" on the overlap.

Yours - just isn't right - sorry bout that.

Edited August 18, 2020 by DanC

[Goldshot Ron]

Randy,

Could you take a photo of the back side also, and post it?  Also, are you telling us ALL the steps you are taking.  If you are doing it Oltoots way, it should come out just fine.  For a torquing tool, I've used hammer handles, but my favorite tool is and old phillips screwdriver (don't know the size, but about 12" long) that I use also as a steel for sharpening my knives.

Oh yeah, I suggest using a lighter weight filler on your horn cap.  It reduces the bulky look of your horn.

Ron

[rktaylor]

DanC,

Thanks for the tips. I agree its not right. I am mostly relying on the Stohlman books which teach to cover horns like this. I'm just not very good at it, but I'm trying to get better.

Ron,

Here's a photo of the back and another while it was still wet. Once the cap was sewn, I stretched the underneath piece as tight (I thought) as I could get it. It looked and felt tight. I wrapped the top layer clockwise, pulled, smoothed, and pulled some more. Then wrapped it with my latigo piece and torqued it pretty good (again I thought) with my trusty pool cue. The kicker is that I walked away thinking this looks really good. Then saw it the next morning. I also agree on the filler. I skived the piece to about 8 oz. I probably should have skived all three layers. I knew it was going to look thick because the horn cap is 1.5 inches. Funny thing is, the customer is going to wrap it with an inner tube and start roping as soon as he gets it. 

Randy

[Josh Ashman]

Hey Randy, with only 4 saddles under my belt I'm not in any position to give advice. I just chimed in to say that once it's covered in innertube or mule hide t won't matter a bit . If I did have to guess I'd wonder about hitting it with your latigo and cut off pool cue about half dry to see if you could convince the feather edges of the wrap to stay down. Might even be able to re-wet them now and give it a try. 

Your fit up on the backside and stitching are sure nice!

All the best, Josh

[Goldshot Ron]

Randy,

Stohlman's pattern for their horns was a "v" style.  What I have found for a straight up dally horn is to make your pattern with the wings more straight out to the cap.  I don't use dish soap for lubrication of my chinaman, I use a lot of the white saddle soap on it.  I also start forming my cover around the post to set the form of the leather.  When satisfied, I unwrap and use Elmer's white glue on the flesh side of the leather and rewrap.  I'll use my chinaman strap several times during this process; each time pulling the tacks and pulling out more slack out of the wings until I'm satisfied.  I have gotten carried away and burnished the post leather by doing this, but like Josh said, if it's going to be wrapped with an inner tube no one will see it.  Also, the white glue will clean off of the grain side with no problem. 

Back to the horn cap; I like mine to have a convex look on top, so I skive only the edges, and not the whole filler piece.  I'm still trying to prefect this method, so I'm no expert.

Good luck.

[rktaylor]

Josh and Ron,

Thanks for the tips and compliments. I redid this horn with a little more focus on both tails of the wrap. I also attempted to skive the pieces as descried by Ron. It took some thickness out, but I need a couple more reps to improve. I also attached my pattern. The horn cap is larger than I need for this saddle, but I didn't want to make a new pattern. Happy stitching,

Randy

[Goldshot Ron]

How do you feel about this attempt Randy?  Your left wrap around looks good.  Once you finish the cap off, I think it'll look good.