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Posted (edited)

You could try just using the chisel as a pricking iron, then making the actual holes with an awl.....but that does mean using a sharp diamond/saddler's awl, something like an Osborne #42 or #43, which you would need to sharpen & polish before use

There are plenty of YT videos on how to prepare & sharpen an awl blade

Edited by zuludog
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The doming is also affected by the surface below.  If the cutting board is a little too hard, the teeth do not penetrate past the tips.  Hence, belly leather (or a firmer smack with the mallet).

The domes mostly go away when you tighten your stitches.

I usually dye before gluing because glue usually interferes with dye and I tend to get glue a few places I don't mean to.

You can also make your leather have a little more give by dampening the edge with hand sanitizer, which gives a minute ot so of the fibers being relaxed.  For a slower-drying option, slightly dampening the leather all over with water (all over to avoid water spots).  Don't overdo it on the moisture. Or, use saddlr soap to lightly wash all over.  Any of these will help the chisels go through more smoothly.

You'll definitely notice a difference if you polish the tips, especially rounding the angle from the tip to the shaft of the prong.  They will enter and exit easier.  Don't worry about removing the plating-- just put a little sewing machine oil or other light oil like WD40, or some wax, to protect the tips from rust.  Or, brush with clear nail polish after polishing and polish lightly when dry.

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6 hours ago, johnv474 said:

The domes mostly go away when you tighten your stitches.

This^^^ it should tuck 'em right back in and you won't really notice.

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