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Posted

Also, post a photo of the front side and exit side of the hole it makes piercing veg tan and the softer leather you are having issues with.  

The first photo seems to show a blunted tip, the second quite pointy.  You will need some cutting edges part way up the blade, otherwise it will just be forcing it's way through and perhaps tearing the leather instead of a clean cut.  Those edges need to be pretty razor sharp as well.  Then blunted where you just want the leather to be stretched open to allow room for the needle and thread.

YinTx

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Posted (edited)

yeah, I've ordered some lower grit sandpaper (100, 150, 200) and I'm making some snading sticks using popsicle sticks. I'll give it another go today (depends when the new sandpaper arrives). My first attempt, I put my sandpaper on top of a wood block, like how the Leathertoolz video did it. Then I used Niel A's method of sharpening each side on the sandpaper, like how he used his carborudem stick/block. I did notice that it was difficult to make contact along the entire length of the awl blade, so I focused on the tip, which is nice and polished. I checked the awl blade a lot but never felt a burr, so perhaps I did something wrong. Also, the spine (shoulder) shifted slightly to the side, despite my best efforts to sharpen each side the same amount. I'm not sure how to fix that.

 

EDIT: the 320 and up grits were from 3M, their automotive line of sandpaper. The lower (100 to 200) are 3M general purpose sandpaper.

Edited by Alaisiagae
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I used my improvised sanding sticks and was able to get 90% of the blade nicely polished. The tip is ultra pointy and extermely sharp. The sides aren't as sharp as, say, my utility knife - should they be that sharp? I tested it on that thin leather, and it goes through it very easily now.

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Posted
42 minutes ago, Alaisiagae said:

I used my improvised sanding sticks and was able to get 90% of the blade nicely polished. The tip is ultra pointy and extermely sharp. The sides aren't as sharp as, say, my utility knife - should they be that sharp? I tested it on that thin leather, and it goes through it very easily now.

The parallel portion of the sides don't need to be sharp at all. You may want them more slender to reduce drag but they aren't cutting anything, only expanding the hole cut by the tip of the awl blade.

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Posted
1 hour ago, Alaisiagae said:

I used my improvised sanding sticks and was able to get 90% of the blade nicely polished. The tip is ultra pointy and extermely sharp. The sides aren't as sharp as, say, my utility knife - should they be that sharp? I tested it on that thin leather, and it goes through it very easily now.

If you are happy with the results, then you are there.  You may discover later that you want a different profile on a different leather/project, so then get another awl and profile it differently.  First photo is a sampling of blades that I have and use.  The last two photos are of a flat profile blade that I enjoy using when I want the exit hole the same size as the entrance hole, and flat.

YinTx

AwlBladesLoRes.thumb.jpg.9ea843aaf5349b3439624040343a7388.jpg

Palo1.thumb.jpg.f037105f736793a8a2a26c0e4fb1dfd0.jpg

Palo2.thumb.jpg.3e51961362cdcec4f50e447744e40c76.jpg

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