Leather Corset (First time tooling - advice/critique welcome!)

[Sleepywise]

Hi all! I've been trolling these forums for advice as I worked my way through this project, but am excited to finally post one of my own!

I've made smaller things like mug straps and drawstring bags before, but this is my first big project and also my first time tooling. I used a pattern from Yvonne Williams for a leather corset, but combined the front panels to have space for a bigger design. The serpent is derived from motifs I found online and altered to the shape of this panel. I used ecoflo gel antique for the dye applied with just my hands (gloved hands, of course).

I have sort of an idea of what I'm doing, but would appreciate any critique or advice. Also, I do have a few questions!

1) It's too late now since I've already finished this part, but I was definitely struggling in some of the smaller areas so you can see where I beveled over a cut. Whoops. Any recommendations for tools to get into those crevices? My beveler is small but not that small (I don't know the brand or number of the tool is since I inherited these from my dad).

2) I'll have to take another photo once they're all dry, but I noticed the tooled panel turned out a shade darker than the rest of my panels even though they were all cut from the same piece, dyed the same, with the same number of coatings. Could this have been an affect from residual moisture? I left the tooled panel to dry before dyeing, but perhaps I was a tad impatient...

3) As for putting the pattern together, the original guide used rivets, but I prefer the look of hand sewn. From what I've seen, many people cement before they sew, but given that the panels will be at curved angles to fit a human waist, I don't think I'll be able to get the cement to set correctly. Can I sew without it?

Thanks for your help! I appreciate any and all advice, even not in response to those specific questions. I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out! (And will post updates along the way ^.^)

  

Edited September 6, 2020 by Sleepywise

[YinTx]

That is a very detailed design!  And a lot of tooling.  Nicely done.  Look forward to seeing the completed project.

YinTx

[DJole]

11 hours ago, Sleepywise said:

 

) It's too late now since I've already finished this part, but I was definitely struggling in some of the smaller areas so you can see where I beveled over a cut. Whoops. Any recommendations for tools to get into those crevices? My beveler is small but not that small (I don't know the brand or number of the tool is since I inherited these from my dad).

2) I'll have to take another photo once they're all dry, but I noticed the tooled panel turned out a shade darker than the rest of my panels even though they were all cut from the same piece, dyed the same, with the same number of coatings. Could this have been an affect from residual moisture? I left the tooled panel to dry before dyeing, but perhaps I was a tad impatient...

3) As for putting the pattern together, the original guide used rivets, but I prefer the look of hand sewn. From what I've seen, many people cement before they sew, but given that the panels will be at curved angles to fit a human waist, I don't think I'll be able to get the cement to set correctly. Can I sew without it?

Thanks for your help! I appreciate any and all advice, even not in response to those specific questions. I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out! (And will post updates along the way ^.^)

1) You could try using a modeling spoon, with an end like this one: 

2) Yes, that's entirely possible. Leather is finicky stuff to color.

3) The cement/glue is mostly used to hold the leather together while making stitching holes, so that the holes line up precisely.
So yes, you can sew without it (I've done it before), if you want to. I have lately learned the wonderful uses of double sided tape, which might be applicable here. 

[Naidni]

The most difficult part of tooling is the swivel-knife work. smoothly drawn curves can become a horror as the swivel knife over-runs the line or goes too straight for too long. I like to keep a well sharpened blade and make shallow successive cuts.

[Sleepywise]

Forgot to update the final product! I don't have the full costume together, but here's the finished piece. The flat lay includes side panels that I ultimately removed because of sizing and shape issues. 

[toxo]

That looks good as is. is it comfortable to wear like that or do you intend to put in side panels. It's a shame the interior background got so dark. It kinda robs some of the contrast. Overall a great job. Being an oldie my interest is piqued so can I be nosy and ask why? Is it a personal thing or a group thing or simply for sale? Of course you don't have to answer but well done.

[Sleepywise]

It's actually quite comfortable to wear as is. Originally I had wanted to keep the side panels, but I measured the sizing a bit off so it fit better without them. And yes, I totally agree with the color contrast. Do you have any advice about how to avoid that?

As for the why, I've been spending a lot of my free lockdown time putting together a costume for the renaissance faire (when we can safely attend again that is), so this corset was for that costume. I haven't quite finished all the components, which is why I haven't updated with the full costume yet.  Plus it seemed like a good project to really get me started in leatherworking! 

[YinTx]

5 hours ago, Sleepywise said:

Do you have any advice about how to avoid that?

Dye the background with a small paint brush and leather dye.  Then apply resist, antique, then a top coat.

You can get a large variety of colors, and contrast to your heart's content.  2 different dyes, and 1 antique.  2 different resists (Pro resist and Tan Kote).  Finished with Angelus acrylic.

YinTx

[toxo]

9 hours ago, Sleepywise said:

It's actually quite comfortable to wear as is. Originally I had wanted to keep the side panels, but I measured the sizing a bit off so it fit better without them. And yes, I totally agree with the color contrast. Do you have any advice about how to avoid that?

As for the why, I've been spending a lot of my free lockdown time putting together a costume for the renaissance faire (when we can safely attend again that is), so this corset was for that costume. I haven't quite finished all the components, which is why I haven't updated with the full costume yet.  Plus it seemed like a good project to really get me started in leatherworking! 

Excellent answer. I hardly do any toolng so not best placed for that but Yin knows what he's doing. Your corset reminded me of the steampunk movement which I love which might be a bit strange for an oldie but I love people expressing themselves without the ironmongery.

[Sleepywise]

14 hours ago, YinTx said:

Dye the background with a small paint brush and leather dye.  Then apply resist, antique, then a top coat.

You can get a large variety of colors, and contrast to your heart's content.  2 different dyes, and 1 antique.  2 different resists (Pro resist and Tan Kote).  Finished with Angelus acrylic.

YinTx

Thank you! Do you mind if I ask a few follow up questions? Would you apply the antique just to the beveled areas/background then? And then remove the resist? And also, is there an alternative to the acrylic finish or a way of applying it that keeps the matte tone of the original leather? My preference is for a rougher finish and all the finishing recommendations I've seen end up glossy or satin.

Edited January 7, 2021 by Sleepywise