Leather Corset (First time tooling - advice/critique welcome!)

[Sleepywise]

Hi all! I've been trolling these forums for advice as I worked my way through this project, but am excited to finally post one of my own!

I've made smaller things like mug straps and drawstring bags before, but this is my first big project and also my first time tooling. I used a pattern from Yvonne Williams for a leather corset, but combined the front panels to have space for a bigger design. The serpent is derived from motifs I found online and altered to the shape of this panel. I used ecoflo gel antique for the dye applied with just my hands (gloved hands, of course).

I have sort of an idea of what I'm doing, but would appreciate any critique or advice. Also, I do have a few questions!

1) It's too late now since I've already finished this part, but I was definitely struggling in some of the smaller areas so you can see where I beveled over a cut. Whoops. Any recommendations for tools to get into those crevices? My beveler is small but not that small (I don't know the brand or number of the tool is since I inherited these from my dad).

2) I'll have to take another photo once they're all dry, but I noticed the tooled panel turned out a shade darker than the rest of my panels even though they were all cut from the same piece, dyed the same, with the same number of coatings. Could this have been an affect from residual moisture? I left the tooled panel to dry before dyeing, but perhaps I was a tad impatient...

3) As for putting the pattern together, the original guide used rivets, but I prefer the look of hand sewn. From what I've seen, many people cement before they sew, but given that the panels will be at curved angles to fit a human waist, I don't think I'll be able to get the cement to set correctly. Can I sew without it?

Thanks for your help! I appreciate any and all advice, even not in response to those specific questions. I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out! (And will post updates along the way ^.^)

  

Edited September 6, 2020 by Sleepywise

[YinTx]

That is a very detailed design!  And a lot of tooling.  Nicely done.  Look forward to seeing the completed project.

YinTx

[DJole]

11 hours ago, Sleepywise said:

 

) It's too late now since I've already finished this part, but I was definitely struggling in some of the smaller areas so you can see where I beveled over a cut. Whoops. Any recommendations for tools to get into those crevices? My beveler is small but not that small (I don't know the brand or number of the tool is since I inherited these from my dad).

2) I'll have to take another photo once they're all dry, but I noticed the tooled panel turned out a shade darker than the rest of my panels even though they were all cut from the same piece, dyed the same, with the same number of coatings. Could this have been an affect from residual moisture? I left the tooled panel to dry before dyeing, but perhaps I was a tad impatient...

3) As for putting the pattern together, the original guide used rivets, but I prefer the look of hand sewn. From what I've seen, many people cement before they sew, but given that the panels will be at curved angles to fit a human waist, I don't think I'll be able to get the cement to set correctly. Can I sew without it?

Thanks for your help! I appreciate any and all advice, even not in response to those specific questions. I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out! (And will post updates along the way ^.^)

1) You could try using a modeling spoon, with an end like this one: 

2) Yes, that's entirely possible. Leather is finicky stuff to color.

3) The cement/glue is mostly used to hold the leather together while making stitching holes, so that the holes line up precisely.
So yes, you can sew without it (I've done it before), if you want to. I have lately learned the wonderful uses of double sided tape, which might be applicable here. 

[Naidni]

The most difficult part of tooling is the swivel-knife work. smoothly drawn curves can become a horror as the swivel knife over-runs the line or goes too straight for too long. I like to keep a well sharpened blade and make shallow successive cuts.

[Sleepywise]

Forgot to update the final product! I don't have the full costume together, but here's the finished piece. The flat lay includes side panels that I ultimately removed because of sizing and shape issues. 

[toxo]

That looks good as is. is it comfortable to wear like that or do you intend to put in side panels. It's a shame the interior background got so dark. It kinda robs some of the contrast. Overall a great job. Being an oldie my interest is piqued so can I be nosy and ask why? Is it a personal thing or a group thing or simply for sale? Of course you don't have to answer but well done.

[Sleepywise]

It's actually quite comfortable to wear as is. Originally I had wanted to keep the side panels, but I measured the sizing a bit off so it fit better without them. And yes, I totally agree with the color contrast. Do you have any advice about how to avoid that?

As for the why, I've been spending a lot of my free lockdown time putting together a costume for the renaissance faire (when we can safely attend again that is), so this corset was for that costume. I haven't quite finished all the components, which is why I haven't updated with the full costume yet.  Plus it seemed like a good project to really get me started in leatherworking! 

[YinTx]

5 hours ago, Sleepywise said:

Do you have any advice about how to avoid that?

Dye the background with a small paint brush and leather dye.  Then apply resist, antique, then a top coat.

You can get a large variety of colors, and contrast to your heart's content.  2 different dyes, and 1 antique.  2 different resists (Pro resist and Tan Kote).  Finished with Angelus acrylic.

YinTx

[toxo]

9 hours ago, Sleepywise said:

It's actually quite comfortable to wear as is. Originally I had wanted to keep the side panels, but I measured the sizing a bit off so it fit better without them. And yes, I totally agree with the color contrast. Do you have any advice about how to avoid that?

As for the why, I've been spending a lot of my free lockdown time putting together a costume for the renaissance faire (when we can safely attend again that is), so this corset was for that costume. I haven't quite finished all the components, which is why I haven't updated with the full costume yet.  Plus it seemed like a good project to really get me started in leatherworking! 

Excellent answer. I hardly do any toolng so not best placed for that but Yin knows what he's doing. Your corset reminded me of the steampunk movement which I love which might be a bit strange for an oldie but I love people expressing themselves without the ironmongery.

[Sleepywise]

14 hours ago, YinTx said:

Dye the background with a small paint brush and leather dye.  Then apply resist, antique, then a top coat.

You can get a large variety of colors, and contrast to your heart's content.  2 different dyes, and 1 antique.  2 different resists (Pro resist and Tan Kote).  Finished with Angelus acrylic.

YinTx

Thank you! Do you mind if I ask a few follow up questions? Would you apply the antique just to the beveled areas/background then? And then remove the resist? And also, is there an alternative to the acrylic finish or a way of applying it that keeps the matte tone of the original leather? My preference is for a rougher finish and all the finishing recommendations I've seen end up glossy or satin.

Edited January 7, 2021 by Sleepywise

[Sleepywise]

10 hours ago, toxo said:

Excellent answer. I hardly do any toolng so not best placed for that but Yin knows what he's doing. Your corset reminded me of the steampunk movement which I love which might be a bit strange for an oldie but I love people expressing themselves without the ironmongery.

I think there is often quite a bit of overlap between steampunk and renfaire styles since both have roots in historical fantasy! My home faire always has steampunk themed weekends, and it's fun to see what people dress up as. 

And I don't think there's an age limit to loving these styles! In fact, some of the best costumes I've ever seen are from the older patrons who have the time, money, and love to create truly beautiful, one-of-a-kind ensembles. I think that's part of my love of these movements--when you're at a faire or a convention, there's not usually judgement or derision. You're just surrounded my a bunch of people who love dressing up and looking awesome and living out new personas. I hope that when I'm 100 (fingers crossed :P), I'll still be rocking leather corsets and steampunk glasses. If you love steampunk, I highly recommend you go for it! There are some wonderful people in the community. :D

[toxo]

1 hour ago, Sleepywise said:

I think there is often quite a bit of overlap between steampunk and renfaire styles since both have roots in historical fantasy! My home faire always has steampunk themed weekends, and it's fun to see what people dress up as. 

And I don't think there's an age limit to loving these styles! In fact, some of the best costumes I've ever seen are from the older patrons who have the time, money, and love to create truly beautiful, one-of-a-kind ensembles. I think that's part of my love of these movements--when you're at a faire or a convention, there's not usually judgement or derision. You're just surrounded my a bunch of people who love dressing up and looking awesome and living out new personas. I hope that when I'm 100 (fingers crossed :P), I'll still be rocking leather corsets and steampunk glasses. If you love steampunk, I highly recommend you go for it! There are some wonderful people in the community. :D

Ha Ha! I'm a bit too old fashioned but I love to see others enjoying themselves. You don't say where you are but here in Kent UK there's a Historic dockyard nearby and it has some enormous buildings. Once a year they hold a steam and Transport show and Steampunk takes over a whole building. Here's some pics from a few years ago. Don't know how mwany I can get in but i've shaved em to the bone so not brilliant pics.

[YinTx]

2 hours ago, Sleepywise said:

Thank you! Do you mind if I ask a few follow up questions? Would you apply the antique just to the beveled areas/background then? And then remove the resist? And also, is there an alternative to the acrylic finish or a way of applying it that keeps the matte tone of the original leather? My preference is for a rougher finish and all the finishing recommendations I've seen end up glossy or satin.

I applied the Pro Resist to the backgrounded areas to make sure the antique did not stick to it, since I wanted the red to show through.  Then I applied the Tan Kote (as resist) to the entire piece.  Apply the antique to the entire piece, and wipe it off.  It will settle into the beveled areas and the cut areas.  Allow it to stain the leather there, then clean it out with Tan Kote again and wipe well.  Allow it all to dry, then apply a finish coat to seal it well.

To keep the finish from being less glossy, use a Matte Acrylic finisher.  The piece I did had a high gloss finisher.  Matte still has a bit of a shine, but not too bad.  The more you do and the more you experiment, the more you will find techniques that work for you.  As many leatherworkers as there are there are as many techniques!  I alter mine almost every project to fit the look I am trying to achieve.

YinTx

[JayEhl]

Hi,

I'm still a noobie, but I'll share with you how do this part.  A warning:  Not sure if this the best way but it seems to work for me.

After tooling:
1)  dye (usually the areas I tooled with a backgrounder)

2) dye the rest of the background leather sometimes with a separate color to separate the tooled background work.

3) after letting everything dry for a few hours (usually overnight) I apply a coat of Pro Resist very carefully with a paint very gently with a paint brush over everything. Sometimes I use a damp sponge if there isn't any delicate dye work that I don't want to smudge and let that dry.  

4) Sometimes a second coat, but this time with a damp sponge.  Being frugal, on the second coat I've also used a mixture of Resolene reduced with 50% water -- (not even sure if that's good so I'll rely on someone else to tell me how that can be improved) (And, Okay, I'm a little cheap)

5) I apply gel with a damp sponge and work that in back and forth in circular motion clockwise and then counter clockwise and wipe off excess.   Experimenting here I've found the dye in the gel is a nice color tone and in several instances didn't bother dying anything outside of the tooled areas I've painted.  

6) Letting that dry I use something like Fiebings atom wax or Eco-Flo Supersheen as my finishing clear coat so nothing rubs off.

7) Depending on the project I'll assemble with glue (gluing both sides) and waiting a few minutes for it to become tacky before tacking down and letting that dry and do the final assembly with stitching by hand (don't have a sewing machine, yet.. ).  when I was out of glue I've also used some of the wife's double stick tape she has for quilting and it works, too.

7) I'll sand the edges smooth and burnish the edges sometimes repeating with higher grit to make it really smooth and use edgecoat for the finish.

Most of my work is in the evenings so letting things dry isn't hard but I do understand being anxious and impatient.  So something else this craft has really taught me is patience.   I have lots to learn and best of all I'm having a blast (and it keeps me off the streets at night!) 

 

Cheers!

    

 

[Vascarl]

Angelus has a product that called Duller that can be mixed in with any of their products to make the finish look matt rather than shiny.