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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Uwe said:

Nothing wrong with installing the smallest possible pulley on the motor (usually 45mm or 50mm) - I order my motors with the smallest possible pulley to start. A larger hand wheel or a large pulley to replace the hand wheel may be a little trickier to find, depending on the machine. If that puts your machine in the speed comfort zone, you’re good.

The pulley can be any size Uwe, it's the taperlock that goes on the shaft and these can be got in any size. I've attempted a video showing the taperlock bush in the center.

I've also included the bill for the pulley, the taperlock bush and the new belt. The 4omm pulley on the servo I already had.

IMG_20201016_002924.jpg

 

 

Edited by toxo
Wrong photo.
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Posted

sigh. My machine guy replied to my text:

“you don’t need a speed reducer with a servo motor” 

um. I think I’d be the one to know. Maybe not how to slow it down but that it’s too fast for me. I feel like I’m getting “now see here little lady”ed. 
 

anyone wanna buy a cylinder bed machine - Atlanta area. Not completely joking ☹️

Posted (edited)

@AmyK Don’t give up on the machine head, it’s the motor control that’s causing you grief. That poorly implemented speed ramping control on the Enduro motors is a real problem. Speed control is done via a light sensor and speed varies depending on how much light hits the sensor. The factory combo of sensor and light blocker is WAY too sensitive, jumping between full light to zero light with the tiniest of pedal movements. I also ended up making a special triangular light blocking “flag” to get any sort of real world ramping of speed. The motor is indeed capable of graduated speed control, just not with the factory bits. Whether you want to bother modifying the speed control on your motor is up to you.

@toxo thanks for the demo and details on your hand wheel pulley. That speed control looks just about perfect to me, sweet! I’m very much in favor of this pulley-as-a-hand-wheel solution. I really don’t care for the in-between pulley speed reducers.  

@Gymnast the 100 RPM starting speed is the lowest I’ve seen on the motors I’ve researched.

 

Just for reference, this is the kind of speed control I’m getting with my servo motor and a standard hand wheel:

 

Edited by Uwe

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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Buenas y cuales sería sus recomendaciones para los enduro

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This is a video, that in my opinion shows good speed control of a leather sewing machine and with an available servo motor.


This is a video of speed control, with a DIY solution on a domestic sewing machine. I think it have got exceptional good speed control. It have got a very fast responsive foot pedal, and it have got a factor 70 between lowest speed and highest speed. If I was a manufacturer of a servo motor for leatherworkers, the performance should look like this: 

 

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I have a Consew 255-rb3 with a family sew servo motor. I had the same problems as most, the motor had no torque at the first or second position but was to fast for me at position 3 or <. I added a 45mm pulley to the motor and a box style speed reducer, problem solved. Brought it all from Toledo, the speed reducer was a simple remove motor bolts and place reducer in place them bolt motor to the reducer. I used a piece of rope to get a belt length and bought that at Autozone.   

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Posted (edited)

Gymnast- Yes. This is what I want. I have no idea how to make it happen. 

Edited by AmyK
Clarification- quote was left out
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I need a book called “So you just want to sew slowly and don’t understand motors or pulleys” 

also what’s this about occluding the light to slow it down? It was referenced in a linked thread but I’m having trouble understanding how putting a sticker on it is the solution to any problem??

Posted

Yes,we used this type of servo years ago & stopped after so many complaints,the ramp speed & lack of low end torque topped off by the boards burning out in 2-3 out of 10 we discontinued buying them & switched to the type with brushes.

We have tested & even have the 1100 watt servos for sale BUT have found that it lacks the punching power @ low speed & won't run as slow as our little FS550 servo does with a speed reducer on it,the brush type of motor also seems to have more low end torque.We stopped using the electronic servos years ago & have had alot less problems do to their simplicity,they also seem to have a long brush life.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

toledo-banner-2.jpg

Posted

There are various factors that determine how precisely you can control motor speed input.

One factor is the mechanical linkage between the foot pedal and the speed input lever on the motor controller. Depending on how close to the pivot point you connect the linkage rod to the pedal and to the lever on the motor controller, you can either exaggerate the pedal movement, or you can minimize the effect of pedal movement on controller input. For maximum control, you want a large pedal movement to cause a small speed input lever movement. 

On your Enduro motor the second factor is how much pedal movement does it take to make the sensor go from receiving full light to zero light. Full light means stop, no light means full speed. It’s like looking at a flash light and moving your hand in front of the flash light to adjust how much light hits your eye.  

A small movement of your hand covers the flashlight completely. (That’s how the Enduro works out of the box)

Instead of just  your hand,  you can hold a clear strip of plastic with a gradient in front of the flash light. That plastic strip is going from clear on one end to black on the other end, with increasingly darker shades of gray in the middle (or increasingly dense sharpie pen lines). The longer that gradient strip is, the easier it is for you precisely control how much light hits your eye.(that’s the video above)

Instead of the gradient plastic strip you can also hold a pennant shaped piece of cardboard and move it leading with the pointy end in front of the flash light. This also makes it easier to change precisely how much of the flashlight you cover. (That’s what I did)

Modifying the Enduro is not very hard to do, but it does take some fiddling and experimenting.

 

  

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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