Beginning Sewer looking for general advice

[MtlBiker]

Hi Everyone,

I'm quite new to sewing... started during the Covid isolation time with a Janome HD3000 and I made mostly masks (over 100 so far).  And I sort of got hooked on sewing.  Very therapeutic during stressful times.  About 6 weeks ago I added a used (demo) Consew RB-206-5 and I really love it.  So far I'm sewing things like firewood log totes, wine totes, small belt pouches, etc.  I'd love to get into leather sewing but I can't seem to find a source for small pieces of leather to experiment with.  And I guess I'd have to order online (I'm in Montreal).  I also have no idea how good (if at all) my RB206 would be with leather, and at this point I'm not looking for another machine.

I did find this board a few weeks ago and have followed several threads and while it is a great resource, I'd really like to find a board somewhere that has more general sewing discussions... not someplace that talks only about sewing clothes and stuff.  Is there such a place?

I've got SO MUCH to learn!

Right now I'm trying to understand a couple of fabrics I bought... I have a 1000D Cordura and a 1200 denier polyester called "Tanker".  The Cordura is more expensive and is PU coated (which I thought was cheaper) and the Tanker is PVC coated.  The Tanker feels much thicker and quite a bit stiffer than the Cordura.  I guess I put the cart before the horse by buying these fabrics before really understanding how they differ and what uses they would be most suited for.  Is there any website where I might ask such questions?

For my firewood tote bags I used the Tanker fabric and it seems very good.  I wonder if the more expensive, yet thinner and PU coated Cordura would be as good, better or worse?  I've been using v92 UV-resistant poly threads.

Thanks for any direction you folks might offer.

 

[fredk]

We have a specific section on Leather sewing machines and sewing leather.

Either re-post your queries there or get a Moderator to move it there

https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/50-leather-sewing-machines/

[Northmount]

@MtlBiker Moved your post to leather sewing machines.

Tom

[JJN]

@MtlBiker, here are a couple of links that might be helpful to you.

Cordura, canvas and other denier fabrics. I buy 1000D Cordura, 420D nylon packcloth, pvc coated 600D polyester and waxed canvas from this vender. I have been very happy with them.

https://www.canvasetc.com/product-category/denier-fabric-synthetic/

I was buying some watch band buckles from this vendor and saw they have leather scrap by the pound. I haven't purchased any of their leather yet buy I do plan on giving them a try.

https://www.buckleguy.com/leather-scrap/

Your Consew will sew leather  up to around 3/8". Get leather point needles for sewing leather. System 135x17 for fabric and System 135x16 for leather. You will probably want to use bonded nylon or polyester thread weight #69, #92 and no bigger than #138. Get needles that are appropriate for each thread weight and type of material.

[Northmount]

1 hour ago, JJN said:

Get needles that are appropriate for each thread weight and type of material.

Needle sizes and thread size chart.  For hard or thick leather, go up one size larger needle.  https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Tom

[nylonRigging]

On 10/28/2020 at 9:35 AM, MtlBiker said:

Right now I'm trying to understand a couple of fabrics I bought... I have a 1000D Cordura and a 1200 denier polyester called "Tanker".  The Cordura is more expensive and is PU coated (which I thought was cheaper) and the Tanker is PVC coated.  The Tanker feels much thicker and quite a bit stiffer than the Cordura.  I guess I put the cart before the horse by buying these fabrics before really understanding how they differ and what uses they would be most suited for.  Is there any website where I might ask such questions?

For my firewood tote bags I used the Tanker fabric and it seems very good.  I wonder if the more expensive, yet thinner and PU coated Cordura would be as good, better or worse?  I've been using v92 UV-resistant poly threads.

Thanks for any direction you folks might offer.

Not familiar with the Name of 'tanker fabric' ?
You want a heavy denier weight, heavy weave nylon or poly for those wood totes, but Cordura is way to nice to use for Firewood tote bags ....LOL
like ( JJN ) say's above post. you should bump-up to at least a bonded 69 nylon or poly thread.

Cordura is more expensive because, it trademark owned name. US milled.  To say that Cordura is 'Good fabric'. is also an understatement . Their proprietary formula on the Urethane backing is outstanding quality also, and puts all the import 'faux' copies to shame. Sometimes I can't believe how supple the invista Brookwood 1000 den.nylon is when it comes off the roll and with sewing it.
.

[zanfar]

17 hours ago, JJN said:

I was buying some watch band buckles from this vendor and saw they have leather scrap by the pound. I haven't purchased any of their leather yet buy I do plan on giving them a try.

https://www.buckleguy.com/leather-scrap/

Your Consew will sew leather  up to around 3/8". Get leather point needles for sewing leather. System 135x17 for fabric and System 135x16 for leather. You will probably want to use bonded nylon or polyester thread weight #69, #92 and no bigger than #138. Get needles that are appropriate for each thread weight and type of material.

I can confirm that BuckleGuy is an awesome, responsive vendor of quality products of all types. While they excell at hardware--which they produce in-house, they also have the widest selection of small-size, quality leather: like panels, straps, etc.

They are not the cheapest, but they might be the best.

[MtlBiker]

On 10/30/2020 at 6:02 AM, nylonRigging said:

Not familiar with the Name of 'tanker fabric' ?
You want a heavy denier weight, heavy weave nylon or poly for those wood totes, but Cordura is way to nice to use for Firewood tote bags ....LOL
like ( JJN ) say's above post. you should bump-up to at least a bonded 69 nylon or poly thread.

Cordura is more expensive because, it trademark owned name. US milled.  To say that Cordura is 'Good fabric'. is also an understatement . Their proprietary formula on the Urethane backing is outstanding quality also, and puts all the import 'faux' copies to shame. Sometimes I can't believe how supple the invista Brookwood 1000 den.nylon is when it comes off the roll and with sewing it.
.

Tanker fabric is stated to be 1200 Denier Polyester with a PVC coating/backing.  I've been buying it for $15.95 per yard (Canadian - dollar, not yard ) from JT's Outdoor Fabrics here in Canada.  The 1000D Cordura is $18.95, so it's not a tremendous saving to go with the Tanker.  But that's what I have so far been using for the firewood totes.  So, what fabric would you suggest for those totes?  (I'm really a newbie at this.)  I've been using V92 UV-resistant poly thread.

Invista Brookwood... the Cordura I've bought was simply listed as 1000D Cordura.  Would that be the same thing?

Yesterday I bought another fabric locally, which the (huge) fabric retailer had labeled as "Majestic 1000 D Nylon Oxford PU".  I have no idea if that's really a brand name or just a name they've put on, but it seems very similar to the Cordura I have.  Slightly more shiny on the PU backing.  And I can buy that for $12.95 (minimum 10 meters).  $15 for smaller quantities.  It's obviously a clone, but I have no idea how good a clone it is.

The problem is that I'm in Canada and buying small quantities from the US is just prohibitively expensive... exchange rate, shipping, duty, so I'm kinda stuck with Canadian suppliers and what they offer.

 

[MtlBiker]

On 10/29/2020 at 9:55 PM, JJN said:

@MtlBiker, here are a couple of links that might be helpful to you.

Cordura, canvas and other denier fabrics. I buy 1000D Cordura, 420D nylon packcloth, pvc coated 600D polyester and waxed canvas from this vender. I have been very happy with them.

https://www.canvasetc.com/product-category/denier-fabric-synthetic/

I was buying some watch band buckles from this vendor and saw they have leather scrap by the pound. I haven't purchased any of their leather yet buy I do plan on giving them a try.

https://www.buckleguy.com/leather-scrap/

Your Consew will sew leather  up to around 3/8". Get leather point needles for sewing leather. System 135x17 for fabric and System 135x16 for leather. You will probably want to use bonded nylon or polyester thread weight #69, #92 and no bigger than #138. Get needles that are appropriate for each thread weight and type of material.

Thank you!  But unfortunately I'm in Canada and buying small quantities of fabric (I'm just starting out so don't know enough about what I'll be making or what the best fabrics are, in order to buy larger quantities) from the States is just prohibitively expensive.  Exchange rate, shipping, duties, etc.  So I'm stuck with what I can get from Canadian sources.

My Consew takes 135x17 needles... would 135x16 even fit?  For my sewing (so far) I've been using v69 and v92 poly threads.

[Northmount]

2 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

My Consew takes 135x17 needles... would 135x16 even fit?

135x17 are conical point for fabrics.  135x16 is a chisel type point used for leather.  It will cut threads in fabrics in instead of sliding through between threads.  Other than that, they have the same specification for length, diameter, etc.

There are several different types of leather points, diamond, etc.

Needles and stitch type.pdf

for needle size versus thread size see this chart.

Tom

 

[MtlBiker]

58 minutes ago, Northmount said:

135x17 are conical point for fabrics.  135x16 is a chisel type point used for leather.  It will cut threads in fabrics in instead of sliding through between threads.  Other than that, they have the same specification for length, diameter, etc.

There are several different types of leather points, diamond, etc.

Needles and stitch type.pdf 374.16 kB · 1 download

for needle size versus thread size see this chart.

Tom

 

Thanks Tom!

I thought 135x17 and 135x16 were different sizes.  (New to industrial machines.)

And that's a great PDF about the needles.

[nylonRigging]

6 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

Invista Brookwood... the Cordura I've bought was simply listed as 1000D Cordura.  Would that be the same thing?

Yesterday I bought another fabric locally, which the (huge) fabric retailer had labeled as "Majestic 1000 D Nylon Oxford PU".  I have no idea if that's really a brand name or just a name they've put on, but it seems very similar to the Cordura I have.  Slightly more shiny on the PU backing.  And I can buy that for $12.95 (minimum 10 meters).  $15 for smaller quantities.  It's obviously a clone, but I have no idea how good a clone it is.

The problem is that I'm in Canada and buying small quantities from the US is just prohibitively expensive... exchange rate, shipping, duty, so I'm kinda stuck with Canadian suppliers and what they offer.

 'Cordura' and they will legally vigorously protect their trademark . I think the name Cordura, people just thrown that out there generically for description, even though it might not be .

Kenyon mill also makes good 1000 den. and heavy weight weave nylon fabric . They use the name 'K-kote' as the trademark . Their also Berry compliant, eastern mill US made good quality stuff, but I never found any of there 1000 den. that is supple/flexible as the Cordura brand can make. But thicker stiffer weave 1000 Den. nylon is good for a lot of things . Kenyon also has quality back coatings also like Cordura .
I try to buy Cordura and Kenyon nylons for quality side of things, but I used to buy some imports like 'Kodra' brand .

Ya, you definitely in a tight position for High-$ shipping up from US. to Montreal. As 'rule of thumb'  good heavy weave 1000 Den. with heavy backcoat will weigh close to 1 Lb. per yard . Shipping-$$ always suck for fabric or leather also , This year alone 2020, I have probably have picked up close to 800 yrds of nylon and had it truck/shipped for pick up.
.
 

[DonInReno]

I was just roaming through a local fabric store that has a very large amount of left over ruminant fabrics (end of run leftovers), so the selection is always changing, and this post came to mind.   When you have a chance to visit a big store with a large selection of heavy fabrics it will be well worth it.

It’s hard to describe the wide variety of heavy synthetic fabrics available now - super heavy 3000d, super supple 1000d, 1600d rip stop, super stiff stiffener, super coarse weave 1600d, and the same down through the thinner weights.     I can’t imagine appreciating the weaves and feel without actually seeing it in person, so the more samples you can get in your area the better.

Then there are the vinyl coated polyester “tarp” fabrics that are bulletproof and are nice to use in high wear areas.   I can definitely see these used in some kinds of firewood haulers.

Then there are the heavy cotton canvas fabrics - almost as much variety as the synthetics.

I don’t know where this store gets leather scraps, but at a few bucks a pound it’s a steal.

Just keep looking and don’t overlook eBay, Craigslist and whatever other sites you have up there - sometimes one person will clearance out a given thing and you can buy a lifetime supply for cheap.   It will take many generations to use up all the YKK bulk zipper I bought at a military surplus store a few years ago.  *chuckle*

 

[JLSleather]

That (Consew) machine will sew a pretty wide range of leather goods... I used mine to sew everything from 2 layers of 1 1/2 0z kidskin for wallet linings up to about 12 0z with 7/8 veg tanned glued to 2 layers 2 oz kidskin.  And I sewed from thread sizes 42 to 207.

Idea is to NOT run a machine full on at capacity, but that thing will sew 1/4" of leather (even firm veg tanned) quite well.

Good little machines... still regret letting mine go.