Newbie query on lining billfold and making ID pocket

[PhilDimashq]

Hi folks,

Phil from Ireland here. 

I'm still very new to leather work and I put up my first post yesterday to show what I've been up to so far.

Spent a lot of time analyzing my results, looking at what didn't work, checking the forum for answers and following the likes of Nigel Armitage, Ian Atkinson, Terrick from Chartermade and so on.

There's been some wrong turns, but generally each new item sees some improvement on the previous (even if it's only a tiny improvement)

This post is about my most recent project : my first billfold, pictured below.

It's made from 3 oz (1.2mm) veg tan, dyed with Fieblings pro dye, and stitched using a set of cheap 3.38mm pricking irons, an absolutely amazing awl from Kevin Lee, and 0.6mm tiger thread.

For me it's my best result so far but of course there's still plenty of room for improvement.

I'm planning on making another for my brother for Christmas and I've some queries that I'm hoping the good folks here on the forum might be able to help me with.

 

I have searched for the answers to these questions without success, so if they've been asked and answered before, my apologies in advance.

Lining the wallet

I'd like to line the bill section on my next version and am unsure of how to do so. I've some nice thin pigskin that I think would be lovely.

Here's my questions

- When you line a billfold do you line both sides of the bill pocket?

- How do you deal with edges ?

I have seen people roll the edges all the way round but that's beyond my skill level at the moment.

I'm guessing the lining is glued and cut up to the stitching line, so it's caught by the stitches but doesn't go right to the edge.

However, I'm unsure what to do at the bottom of the bill pocket. This would be visible when the wallet is open (under the curved bit in the middle).

T Pockets

I need to check my dimensions of the t part of the t pockets so the stitches all line up and are the same size as this didn't work great in my first attempt.

I've seen some projects where the stitch straddles the joint and others where the stitch falls in the gap.

To my untrained mind, I think it should straddle the joint i.e. a stitch hole on either side with the thread going over the join.

- Is this correct?

Also, is there any difference or reason for cutting the "inner" or hidden part of the t pocket as a square shape or an angled shape?

I see folks doing both and am unsure if there's a reason or it it's just down to personal preference

ID Pocket

I'd like to add an ID pocket for a drivers license. However, I'm unsure if the assembled pocket should be two or three layers.

One option is the acetate wedged between two pieces with cut outs and then this sewn to a backing piece.

The other option is the acetate just covered with a single piece with a cut out and then this sewn to a backing piece.

I'm leaning toward the second simply to keep the thickness down but I'm unsure if this is a good way to do it.

So if anyone has done this and can share some tips I would greatly appreciate it.

Stitching

I've been working on this for a while, and the new awl certainly upped my game a bit but took some getting used to.

Kind of figured it out towards the end of the last project when sewing along the top and was quite happy with result on both sides.

There's one sort of issue that I'd like to check. Not sure if this is a problem or not.

The awl is extremely fine (1.9 mm). I sew from the right so my process normally is : awl from right, left needle through, then right needle through over thread from the left needle, cast stitch at the back (on the left) and tension

However, I'm having difficulty finding the awl hole when coming with the first stitch i.e. from the left with my needle (my "blind" side).

So now I'm putting the awl in from the right, then using the needle on the right to open the hole a bit before going first stitch with left needle in, then right needle etc

I'm just a bit worried that doing it this way might mess up the hole on the left hand side (the "wrong" or back side)

Not experienced enough to see the difference if indeed there is one, so just wanted to ask does anyone see this as a problem and if yes, what can I do about it.

 

Sorry if this is a lot of questions but I haven't been able to find answers for these anywhere.

A big thanks in advance,

All the best,

 

Phil

 

Edited November 25, 2020 by PhilDimashq

[chrisash]

Instead of the awl, I just use the right hand needle in its place just to open up the back hole for the left needle to go in and then withdraw the right needle with the left following, after that cross the needle and insert the right one if you get the drift easy to do but not explain

 

[PhilDimashq]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the reply.

I'm using a pricking iron, so the holes are not punched all the way through. So I have to use the awl first from the right to make the hole but it's so slim I have trouble finding the hole when coming initially from the left for my first stitch.

But it seems from your explanation that using the right needle to open up the hole is not going to cause a problem which is good news for me. Thanks again

[chrisash]

Sorry a bit of confusion, with pricking irons, such a loose term, in the old days they just marked the leather and you then used a awl, now days many are designed to go right through the leather and called either pricking irons, stitching irons or stitching chisels, guess you are using the original pricking iron and awl, i was thinking more a stitching iron

[mike02130]

Right needle goes in partially and then cock it over to expose more hole and stick in left needle pull right needle out and go all the way through with left.  Many videos including Ian's demonstrate that method.

The lining is loose in the middle. If you glue it it will stretch or wrinkle when it is opened or closed.  

Straddle the line, huh?  You did it correctly.

Burnish or edge paint the edges.

T pockets are angled to create less overlap making it less bulky.  Skive them.

Suggestions-- 

Use thinner thread.  Hammer down your stitches.  Make the horizontals equal.  There is quite a bit of space above that top T pocket.  Study wallets on Instagram.

[PhilDimashq]

Hi Mike,

Thanks a million, that's a lot of good advice.

What you recommend re stitching is exactly what I'm doing. Wasn't sure I was right so it's good to know I'm not messing it up.

Totally get what you mean about the top t-pocket space. It's one of the changes I'm planned for the new wallet. It'll have 4 card slots but will be the same size vertically (and they'll be evenly spaced I hope )

About edges, just realised my question wasn't clear. 

I really I was wondering how you deal with lining as it gets close to the edge? Especially at the bottom in the middle where it'll be exposed.

And do folks line one or both sides of the inner?

All the best,

Phil

[mike02130]

This is not my work.  Just an example from Instagram.

Edited November 25, 2020 by mike02130
added info

[PhilDimashq]

Thanks again Mike.. that one looks so much better with the pockets spaced properly.

I've drawn out my basic pattern now on the computer and the spacing looks fine. Just need to figure out how to do the lining and the ID pocket and I'll be good to go.

[mike02130]

Make the center piece 1.25" wide or so and the length the same as your card pockets.  Sew it in along the two inside verticals of the card holders. That method you wont have the hidden pockets

In order to have the hidden pockets then just tack it in with a few stiches in each corner the width of the center piece and continue your stitching across.  Understand?.

Edited November 25, 2020 by mike02130
removed the word if

[mike02130]

BTW,  I've never seen a man carry a wallet with an ID window.  The ID is always held or handed to the cop, pot shop, clerk or whomever.  Get rid of it.  But just because I've never seen it it doesn't mean it doesn't exist.  Anyone out there have one?