Bobbin Thread Management?

[MtlBiker]

I guess my inexperience is showing again, but how do you folks manage your bobbin threads?

What do you do when/if you run out of bobbin thread while sewing a long seam?  At the start and finish of my sewing I usually backstitch to lock the threads and then use a thread burner to seal the thread ends.  If I run out of bobbin thread in the middle of stitching something the end isn't locked with backstitching... what should I do?  Thread rip the whole thing and start again (and some material would show the needle holes if I did this) or somehow restart the stitching from where it had ended?  What should I do to lock the first thread?  Is there a technique for continuing a stitch after having run out of bobbin thread?

And what do you do when you don't know if there is enough thread left on the bobbin to do your stitch?  Simply replace it with a full bobbin just in case?  Throw out whatever was left on the bobbin?  I guess the cost of thread is insignificant in the overall scheme of things but I'm bothered by wasting what might be many feet of thread.  And I can't imagine storing lots of bobbins with only some thread left on them. 

I tell you guys, the things I don't know about sewing would fill a book! 

 

[DonInReno]

How and what you choose to do when bobbin thread runs out depends on the situation and personal preferences.   You’ll see many thread racks with space for a few spools of each color and matching bobbins so it’s convent, quick and efficient.

I’m not sewing for profit, and space is somewhat limited so I only have a few prefilled bobbins in the most used thread colors/sizes.   
 

With time you’ll get a better feel for when the bobbin thread will run out and plan accordingly, but it catches us all, or a thread will break.

How you deal with restarts depends on how important looks are - for the most part I pick the end of the thread through the bottom for a few stitches back, tie it, and start from there.   Instead of a backtack on the new start I might pull the top thread through the backside and hand tie it.

With canvas and thread color matching the fabric I normally just backtack over the end and continue on.  Unlike domestic thread, bonded nylon is pretty slick so you’ll have to develop a feel for what it will take to keep the stitch intact over the long term.   I’m a fly tyer so it seems natural to put a small dot of thread cement, super glue or something on any hand tied knots or questionable short tacks. Lol

Edit:   I also use a stand alone bobbin winder and only wind one when the other is empty - always using the bobbin winder as the machine sews meant I always had an extra full bobbin.

 

Edited December 12, 2020 by DonInReno

[Wizcrafts]

Running out of bobbin thread is a normal occurrence for professional sewers. The only way to be certain you won't run out is to load a fresh bobbin before starting a critical job. Otherwise, when you run out, remove the work, load in a new bobbin, then start sewing about 5 stitches before you ran out an just sew over the last stitch. Burn or clip the thread stubs when you're done.

Note, there are some machines that let you pull the empty bobbin out with the work in place and load a new one, then resume sewing. You would have to backtack a few stitches though to lock it the previous stitches. I can do that on top loading machines, like Singer 111 builds, 153 clones and 211 walking foot machines. It isn't so easy on a side loader like a Singer 31-15 or Consew 206.

[Joon1911]

1.) after awhile you tend to get a sense of how soon your bobbin needs to be replaced before starting a long run.  
2.) if you want to use the remainder of your bobbin,  pull out enough of the stitches so you have a decent tail to pull the stitches taut and back up several stitches and start stitching with a full bobbin.  This will effectively “lock” the old and new stitches in place.  The only downside of this is doubled stitches in that area. Cut the ends and burn them like the beginning and end and all set. 
3.) if appearance is critical, pull the stitches and start over in the same holes.  

[sandmanred]

I save the little bobbins that get pulled before a long run and save them for the smaller runs.  

If I'm on a top stitch run and run out of bobbin thread I'll pull out enough stitches to tie off on the back side and restart by dropping the needle into the last stitch before dropping the presser foot, tying off that one as well.

[MtlBiker]

On 12/12/2020 at 12:35 PM, Wizcrafts said:

Running out of bobbin thread is a normal occurrence for professional sewers. The only way to be certain you won't run out is to load a fresh bobbin before starting a critical job. Otherwise, when you run out, remove the work, load in a new bobbin, then start sewing about 5 stitches before you ran out an just sew over the last stitch. Burn or clip the thread stubs when you're done.

Note, there are some machines that let you pull the empty bobbin out with the work in place and load a new one, then resume sewing. You would have to backtack a few stitches though to lock it the previous stitches. I can do that on top loading machines, like Singer 111 builds, 153 clones and 211 walking foot machines. It isn't so easy on a side loader like a Singer 31-15 or Consew 206.

Thank you Wizcrafts! 

I don't quite understand your comment though (bolded, above) about not being so easy to back stitch on a side loader...  I mean, you've run out of bobbin thread, removed the work, installed a new bobbin and started sewing and back stitching.  How is that operation different on a top or side loading machine?

Anyway, you've answered my main question about this, and that is to continue sewing from where you ran out of bobbin thread instead of ripping out the stitch you'd already done and starting over.

Cheers!

 

[Wizcrafts]

3 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

I don't quite understand your comment though (bolded, above) about not being so easy to back stitch on a side loader

The reason I said this is because you would have to tilt the machine back on its hinges to get to the bobbin on a standard flatbed table. This would likely bend the work under the foot and probably cause it to move out of position.

[MtlBiker]

3 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

The reason I said this is because you would have to tilt the machine back on its hinges to get to the bobbin on a standard flatbed table. This would likely bend the work under the foot and probably cause it to move out of position.

Okay thanks... I understand.  But what you said does not apply to ALL flatbed machines.  My Consew 206RB-5 for example, doesn't require the machine to be tilted to replace the bobbin.  You just reach under the table and pop it in place.  You don't even have to see it, but sliding open the cover does help.  My only experience with industrial machines is the 206RB-5 and my new 2750 Pro, so that's why I didn't understand your comment.

Cheers!