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Posted

My experience is that the 1541S does not like things less then 3mm thick as the feeding is a little too aggressive while on the same amount of material the 1181n happily sews along. The 1541S excels at the mid level of thick stuff while the 1181N excels at the light to mid weight stuff. My 1181n is basically setup for lighter stuff and binding / cording. The pressor foot on the 1181N has a much smaller profile with the feed dog nowhere near as aggressive. The 1181N reminds me more of the feel and sound of a really nice old domestic Singer humming along, just with better capabilities.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

  • 6 months later...
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Posted

Hi Smithi! I'm so glad you asked this in the forum because, oddly enough, I had narrowed it down to these two as well. I'm curious which one you ended up getting and how you are liking it? Did you "buy once and cry once?" LOL

-Deanna

Posted
4 hours ago, SewDeanna said:

Hi Smithi! I'm so glad you asked this in the forum because, oddly enough, I had narrowed it down to these two as well. I'm curious which one you ended up getting and how you are liking it? Did you "buy once and cry once?" LOL

-Deanna

I never recommend a 1181 for leather as the upper outside foot has teeth (which can ground off) BUT it also has feed dogs that need to grip the leather to pull it through.The 1541S has smooth bottom feet on it & the feed dog has teeth BUT they can be ground off since it's a needle-feed & it won't affect the stitch length like it would if you ground them on the 1181.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

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Posted

I would recommend a compound feed (triple feed) with a clutch.  Doing auto upholstery you will run into work that will need piping (welting).  The center moving foot on the compound feed machine will cinch (press down) on the piping.  This is specially important when sewing  the piping (welt) to the upper and lower material.  Most of these machines have a adjustment for the the lifting height of the feet, reducing lifting make sewing thin materials easier.  If you buy a machine without a clutch make sure you make you mark hook and shaft so you can reset if you have a thread jam.  A slightly used machine might be a better choice (non factory) because the hook and the race have smoothed with each other. A servo with needle position is a good choice.  You can adjust needle position to reduce. thread jams (adjust in slightly descending position).  The thread release should be adjusted at the top of the lift this reduces tension problems when lifting foot going around corners or heavy seams.  Avoid factory machines they sell for a reason/   Good Luck

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