DA revolver molded owb holsters potos please

[Scootch]

I've been working on a cross draw holster for a SW 19.  This is the first double action revolver holster I've made.  The pocket turned out a little too big and the stitch line was embarrassingly off but the overall intent of the holster was good,  cross draw to be used from a seated position.  My second pattern is tweaked and will be much better.  I've given the holster to my customer to we are around for a while to make sure the fit is good and the belt angle is going to work out.  So far so good.

What I'm looking for are some photos of Double action molded revolver holsters to see how other folks are running the stitch line.  

On my second go around I'm going to add a welt.  I'm also a little concerned about the sight channel coming out as well on the second one since the over all pocket will be smaller.

Thanks,

Scott

[Dwight]

This is the latest one I've done . . . 1917 S&W .45 DA revolver.

Turn it upside down . . . it won't fall out . . . can be shaken out . . . but ya gotta work on it.

May God bless,

Dwight

[caressofsteel]

To get stitch lines for revolvers, I use a length of 8-9oz leather about a quarter inch wide. I start at the top of the cylinder and wrap the leather around the gun, coming together at the triggerguard. I measure the length, then add 1/4 inch (two thickness' of the leather). I measure again at the middle of the cylinder, the bottom of the cylinder, then the barrel. If the gun has a longer or tapered barrel, you may need more measurements along it. Lets say I measure 5 inches around the top of the cylinder and triggerguard. I would add 1/4 inch, then divide by two, to get the distance from the centerline, 2 5/8 inches.

I center the gun on a manila folder and trace the outline. At the top of the cylinder I measure out 2 5/8 inches and make a mark. This is the start of the stitch line. Then I do the same for the middle cylinder, bottom cylinder, frame, top of barrel and muzzle. I draw a smooth curve between these points.

I find with a revolver, because the width changes at almost every point, it is difficult to get a stitch line that exactly follows the contour of the gun. (Much easier with semi-autos).

[Brooks125]

Here's an early one of my crossdraw revolvers.  You may have found, revolvers are TOUGH. You need a lot of meterial to get around the cylinder and not much to get around the rest.  I use cheap latigo scraps from a muzzle loader shop and make "sketch" holsters.   It's kind of an art-meets-science process.  Yes, this one here is a Vaquero single action, but the trigger is covered likea DA.  (my other pics are too big, I guess)

[Scootch]

Thanks for the replies.  I finally finished up.  The first is of the photo type.  It's embarrassing how bad I missed the stitch line.  I made it as a flat back thinking it might wear better but changed my mind on the second one.  The buyers primary interest was to be comfortable while seated in a vehicle and to not poke him in the gut too bad so I tried to keep the size minimal and used a single loop.  The holster is canted somewhere around 63 degrees.  The proto type was made from the shoulder neck area and the final holster was made from the butt.  It was awful tight.  I probably spent two hours stretching the holster enough to get the gun and belt loop to be useable.  I made the welt minimal width to keep the holster size down but it broke a needle on my boss so I ended up hand sewing the welt.  The reinforcement also wrinkled due to having to bend the holster for sewing.  All and all I'm pretty satisfied with how it turned out. The holster shrunk causing the pistol to ride about 1/8" shallower in the holster than I intended. I took the stitch line from tracing the moulding shape from the photo type.  I learned a lot on this one!

Edited January 18, 2021 by Scootch

[Scootch]