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caressofsteel

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About caressofsteel

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    Member

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  • Location
    Raleigh NC

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters
  • Interested in learning about
    Holster Business

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  1. I have made watch straps from 4oz vegetable tanned leather from Tandy, and 5oz Chromexcel from Buckleguy. Both worked out well. I have no complaints when purchasing from Springfield, but I have not bought a $30 side from them. I believe they will sell some leather by the square foot if you want to start small. I would recommend checking out Buckleguy.com as they seem to have the best selection of hardware for watchbands. They also sell small panels of leather. The good news is you can probably go for lower grade leather and work around the imperfections (since watchbands are relatively small). Finally, pick a style you like and start crafting. It won't be perfect, but if you like what you made, you will be motivated to improve it on the next go around.
  2. I use LibreCAD for my templates. Although I don't use it; it has a built in dimensioning tool. It is free and open source. Online documentation seems to be pretty good, although I only use it for 2D templates.
  3. The term handmade is mere marketing in niches where the term still implies quality. I recently saw one YouTuber cutting leather with a scalpel. They said that all products were cut by hand and burnished by hand; that is why they were so expensive and high quality. Meanwhile, there was a motorized burnisher and clicker dies in the background. So this was pure marketing on his part. The thing is his stuff looked top quality even being die cut and machine burnished. But you have to tell the customer a story and that customer needs to believe they are getting something special.
  4. Hello bigsig11010, You do not say what type of leather you are using, but assuming vegetable tan leather, here is what I do: I will sand the edges of the leather using a Dremel, 320 grit drum sander to get the edges even. Then I mark the stitch lines at 3mm for linings or 4mm for thicker leather using a wing compass. I like to mark the stitch lines at this point, before the edges are beveled, because there is less chance of the tool slipping off the edge. After the stitch lines are marked, then I will bevel the edges. Before the final burnishing, I go over the edges with a 600 grit drum sander. I don't skive the edges because I mainly make holsters, and I want them full strength at the edge. Hope this helps and good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
  5. Not quite what you asked, but I have hidden snaps between two layers of leather using the flat stud instead of the round cap. Usually have to trim the post 1/8 of an inch or so.
  6. Picture did not upload. Hopefully it works this time.
  7. A buddy requested a pocket holster for his Glock 43. This is 2 layers of 4oz leather. I made this one slightly differently. I have been having trouble getting the dye even, so for this one I dyed the outer layer of leather immediately after I cut it. It seemed to dye much more evenly when flat (vs sewing, boning, then dyeing). This did make detail boning the holster more difficult. The holster was not molded inside the trigger guard, to give it a looser fit, but it ended up having a very tight fit anyway. Not a big deal, as loosening a holster is easier than trying to make it tighter. Lining is sewn using #138 thread at 3mm, almost 9 SPI and the body of the holster is #277 at 4mm; lots of practice hand stitching.
  8. No one mentioned this yet but I happen to like the look of a holster with a natural color lining. I use two layers of 4-5oz leather. I think it just looks classier.
  9. I am interested in the Glocks listed and the Sig P365.
  10. To get stitch lines for revolvers, I use a length of 8-9oz leather about a quarter inch wide. I start at the top of the cylinder and wrap the leather around the gun, coming together at the triggerguard. I measure the length, then add 1/4 inch (two thickness' of the leather). I measure again at the middle of the cylinder, the bottom of the cylinder, then the barrel. If the gun has a longer or tapered barrel, you may need more measurements along it. Lets say I measure 5 inches around the top of the cylinder and triggerguard. I would add 1/4 inch, then divide by two, to get the distance from the centerline, 2 5/8 inches. I center the gun on a manila folder and trace the outline. At the top of the cylinder I measure out 2 5/8 inches and make a mark. This is the start of the stitch line. Then I do the same for the middle cylinder, bottom cylinder, frame, top of barrel and muzzle. I draw a smooth curve between these points. I find with a revolver, because the width changes at almost every point, it is difficult to get a stitch line that exactly follows the contour of the gun. (Much easier with semi-autos).
  11. Looks great. I have been wanting to make a leather briefcase / laptop bag similar to this. What weight and type of leather did you use?
  12. Regular dye = rub off. Especially with black. 99% of my problems with rub off disappeared after switching to pro dye. Pro dye used to cost twice as much as the regular dye; but now it's only about 15% more, which is well worth it in my opinion.
  13. 277 bonded nylon thread or 0.8mm Tiger thread. I like the Tiger thread more and more because it lays flat and the braid seems to be stronger than 277 nylon.
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