Singer 111W155 - several questions

[CowboyBob]

These machines like this with a walking foot have down pressure on the foot ,so what happens is when the back or outside foot lifts up it makes it feel like there's a tight spot in it,it's normal.

[DonInReno]

10 hours ago, Wyowally said:

I have adjusted the case opener without knowing - case? what case? what is getting opened?

Many machines have a separate bobbin case - in the 111w155 the case is built in and the part being opened is the gap between the needle plate and tab (which is part of the built in bobbin case).

The wet/dry paper and Dremel are perfect for a number of sewing machine projects!     I almost suggested them, but didn’t have to after all.   Lol

You know how there are small areas with light rust that are just a pain to clean up - just in the last year I’ve become a big fan of these abrasive polish pads for a Dremel.   They are essentially soft scotchbrite-ish.   The ones sold by Dremel are stupid expensive, but these multipacks aren’t bad and the finest grits are the most useful for light surface rust. Saves a lot of elbow grease for small areas.

You’re in luck as far as adjustments go with the videos Uwe has on YouTube.   You’ll find a lot of overlap in the design of the 111w155 and many other older triple feed industrials.    The 111w155 was adopted by the military way back (40s?) as well as by all sorts of commercial users -  it’s been very much the grand dad of many designs because it worked so well.   So there are many videos that might show a Consew 225, or Juki 562, or Seiko something-or-other, or a less known copy, and most of the adjustments are the same.   Uwe does a great job of describing what the physical movement should be at different stages of the cycle even though the exact way to adjust for it may be slightly different from the machine he’s using.

If thread is hanging up on the bobbin case with a lot of tension it can be a situation where it helps if the hook is advanced just a small amount beyond normal hook timing - his gets the thread just a tad bit farther around the bobbin when the take up arm starts pulling the stitch tight.  I suggest sticking with normal hook timing, but keep this in the back of your mind if nothing else helps.   It’s not unheard of for inexpensive replacement hooks to be slightly off in shape and function.    Some guys in here with way more experience than I have can tell stories of cheap hooks so far out of spec they never work quite right.  Also, not all hooks are designed for thick thread - many companies have at least two part numbers - one for thinner thread and one for thicker.

Now that you have a stronger sewing machine there are a whole new selection of materials to build stuff out of.   In addition to leather projects, you’ll get a kick out of the whole range of upholstery vinyls, vinyl coated polyester (truck tarp), and dozens of different straps.   Plastic 5 gal bucket material can easily be sewn into anything you need a stiffener for - and there are plastic suppliers with all shapes and thicknesses of other plastics, not to mention kydex can be heat molded and sewn in various outdoorsy projects.  

I bet you’ll get a kick out of the heavy duty hardware at Paragear - it’s nice to have a number of specialty suppliers for various things for unique projects.

http://www.paragear.com/parachutes/10000171/PARACHUTE-HARDWARE

 

[DonInReno]

...oh, and you’ll need a few sources for heavier weights of canvas and whatnot:

https://www.bigduckcanvas.com/12oz-heavyweight-cotton-duck-brown-factory-seconds/

[Wyowally]

Don and Bob,

Thanks for your advice and comments. I've nearly got it where I want. Only a few thoughts.

• Back to the foot lift eccentric. Mine has a set screw, a worm adjuster screw, plus two holes - one threaded and one not. I found a place on the shaft where the collar held by the "set" screw seems happiest. I believe but haven't confirmed that the worm screw is designed to be adjusted without loosening any set screw. At least on mine it does and I can regulate the height of each foot during the sewing cycle from zero to nearly a quarter inch. According to the text in Singer's materials, this "ability to adjust presser height for both feet allows the user to change height to match thicker or thinner materials".  Don't know what the other holes are yet. This whole process should not be confused with adjusting the lift using the hand or knee lifter.
• Don, you've gone to a lot of effort to help me along - appreciated! As I said it is sewing pretty well. I'm still puzzled by what I call check spring bounce and it may all be normal and natural. When the upper thread is brought around by the hook and slips off, it goes by the opener just fine. About the time it is pulled out of view near the bobbin case tab, ready to pull the bobbin thread, the check spring bounces up maybe an eighth inch. Maybe it is just reacting to the stitch getting pulled tight. Probably.
• Bob, I understand about some places being tighter than others during the wheel rotation cycle. It is working fine. What I've seen on mine is if the foot pressure is screwed down to mid range AND that foot lift height during sewing is way higher than it needs to be for material thickness (like I described in the eccentric adjuster above) - then the machine has more resistance for a longer period of time raising the spring more than it needs to.
• I have never been able to decipher old illustrations of oiling points. I use the obvious openings, search for wicks, and drip oil on every joint and bushing area I can find. Super Lube on gears. Wondering what others do.

I have friends who accuse me of over-analyzing things, researching too much, and reaching incorrect conclusions.  Not sure how they arrived at that conclusion.

 

Edited April 16, 2021 by Wyowally

[DonInReno]

9 hours ago, Wyowally said:

I have never been able to decipher old illustrations of oiling points. I use the obvious openings, search for wicks, and drip oil on every joint and bushing area I can find. Super Lube on gears. Wondering what others do.

That sounds right on the money.
The place that seems to get neglected is the upper bushing of the hook - many old machines have sloppy worn bushings.    Oil has to make it down past the bobbin one of three ways.   I’ve always just put a drop of oil dead center of the bobbin release lever - there is an oil passages down the center of the hook shaft that leads to both the upper bushing and the case opener eccentric on the hook shaft.  
 

 

Second, the depression the case opener lever sits in is also an oil catch - the additional oil passage circled goes directly to the upper hook bushing.

It’s probably not necessary, but when changing bobbins I’ll also put a drop of oil under the bobbin so it runs down the exterior of the hook shaft for a third source of oil for that upper bushing.  

[Sloop]

Hello Wyowally,

    You mention having a Necchi BV.  What is the throat width on the BV?

 

Thanks

[Wyowally]

Sloop, I'll have to measure it in my shop, 3 miles away. It is pretty wide. The BV was marketed as a 'tailor's machine' according to some sources. I think the throat may be a little wider than the Singer 111w155.

[Sloop]

Thanks Wally,  I'm looling to do canvas projects on my boat,  and a wide throat is what I'd like.