Sailrite Leatherwork Machine

[kgg]

1 hour ago, ChipperBags said:

I hope my pictures make it.

Once you get the other photo's sized down please post so we can see the full thread path. We maybe able to offer some more suggestions.

What I see so far in the photo:

i) The top thread needs go in the top hole of the pin as you have done but it also needs to wrap around the pin and come out of the bottom hole so as to make a "S" shaped wrap around on the pin. This will help in getting the coils out of the thread and add a very slight top thread tension. It appears you are using a 8oz spool of white polyester thread and I assume the little 4 oz spool on the top cover is your N66 bonded nylon.

ii) Are you trying to use the little 4 oz spool of thread on the top of the machine or are you replacing the white polyester thread with the black N66 bonded nylon?

iii) The base of the top thread spool needs to be better secured so as not to move around on the table from machine vibration or accidental bumping of the spool. The center of the thread spool should be directly under the thread support arm. As the amount of thread on the spool reduces the easier it is for it to wander off and explore the floor.

kgg

[ChipperBags]

I got the Image Size app.

Sailrite Use Video

The video above is where I got my threading instructions.

What other photos do you want?

Chip

Edited November 5, 2022 by ChipperBags

[ChipperBags]

Okay, here is another photo.

 

[kgg]

3 hours ago, ChipperBags said:

The video above is where I got my threading instructions.

The instructions are good basic instructions. When doing the bobbin tension as the method shown in the video their method is a good starting point but the drop test will provide a better method or you could use a bobbin thread tension gauge to be even more accurate. To check the top thread tension a top thread tension gauge can also be used to adjust / set the top tensioner. In the end it is really going to come down to what and how thick/tough a material/leather you are trying to sew and choosing the right thread needle combination.

kgg

[Straycat62]

I started out on a Sailrite LS1. Bought used off CL. It had been sitting for a minute and had dried oil(varnish?) on the guide rods/needle bar and it wasn't functioning right. After a cleaning, started working well. Like others have said-They are good for what they are, a portable walking foot. Good for someone who doesn't have the space for a full size machine. 

They have it locked down customer service wise. Call and can talk to a person. Their owners manuals are spiral bound and easy to navigate. Nice glossy pictures for descriptions. Webste is easy to navigate to order replacement parts and accessories. I ordered smooth presser feet and feed dog for mine to sew leather. The day they arrived, I received a link for a Sailrite video depicting how to change out the parts. I thought that was classy. 

I moved up to a full size industrial triple feed but kept Sailrite also for now. 

[ChipperBags]

I need the left smooth foot and feed dog or the left zipper foot.

I wish the Leatherwork came with all the feet.  I’m trying to make 1/4” piping for my current project in vinyl, but I can’t get close enough to the cording… I might have to do that job on the Singer 128 with a zipper foot and some tape on the bottom of the foot so the vinyl feeds adequately.  I tested the Sailrite tonight using a #18 needle (leather) and #69 black nylon thread.  I sewed a test strip similar to the actual cording strip I’m gonna make.  The machine was flawless… the operator caused two alternating missed stitches.. I was pulling the fabric through and trying to turn it… Whoops!

I’m learning!

[Wizcrafts]

3 hours ago, ChipperBags said:

wish the Leatherwork came with all the feet.  I’m trying to make 1/4” piping for my current project in vinyl, but I can’t get close enough to the cording

Sailrite sells piping foot sets for their machines. Since you are using vinyl, feet with teeth won't be a problem.

[kgg]

10 hours ago, ChipperBags said:

I need the left smooth foot and feed dog or the left zipper foot.

This link to Aliexpress my help with finding odds and ends for your portable walking foot machine. The Chinese versions of the Sailrite are called 106-rp, the quality???. I just type in 106-RP in the search line:

https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20221118042012&SearchText=106-RP&spm=a2g0o.productlist.1000002.0

 

kgg

Edited November 18, 2022 by kgg

[ChipperBags]

Do you think I should get that one (for the last-1, of course) or the left zipper foot?

[ChipperBags]

Okay, I’m ordering the left zipper foot and the standard foot for the LS-1 (when I get a few bucks).  As of right now, I’m making a sewing machine cover out of vinyl.

Chipper

[ChipperBags]

I’m getting the cheap left zipper foot from eBay.

I’ll let you know how that goes…

Chipper

[ChipperBags]

Hi Everyone!

Bet you thought I went away, huh?  But, nope!

Has been a while, but I’m back!  I’ve learned a lot about my LS-1 Sailrite Ultrafeed disguised as a Leatherwork!  I have made some things, but not as many as I would like due to financial constraints!

I have the machine humming along, but for anyone interested, this machine is NOT for the faint of heart.  It requires readjustment every time you change projects.  Maybe that’s normal, but I’m kind of new to sewing as well so there was a learning curve!

When I got my machine it was fine!  Then I made a repair where I knocked several things out of adjustment!  Since there were multiple items it was a bit tricky to get tight.  
 

Ended up being the travel height of the walking foot and the back and forth range of motion as well as the Needle Bar Height.

This all made since because when doing the repair I FORCED the assembly under the foot with alL my strength and done things moved or loosened.  I got it working pretty good!

I will be making 2 tote bags out of the Side of S.B. Nubuck Leather I got for Christmas!  I have the preliminary cuts done.

If anyone has ANY questions about Sailrite’s Leatherwok I would be happy to answer to the best of my ability!

Chipper

[MainiacMatt]

I looked into the Sailrite LW and it looks pretty spiffy and their support sure is highly praised.  But when I discovered that you can get a new compound feed industrial for the same $ (or less),  I moved on with my search.  This isn't intended to take away from Sailrite in any way, as service and support have real value.  Just adding another factoid to the discussion.

Edited January 28, 2023 by MainiacMatt

[PlanoMike]

I’ve had the LW a little over a year now. Works good, but I get tired of adjusting the tension every new project.
Also, had to re-adjust the tension on the two drive belts. What a mess. I had to take the work table top off the stand so that I could get to the idler pulley adjustment, and to get to the motor mount bolt. Not an easy job.

[PlanoMike]

On 10/16/2022 at 9:41 PM, kgg said:

Keep in mind that no one machine will do everything. The Leatherwork (~$1400 usd) which is a flatbed that is basically a Sailrite LS-1 straight stitch machine put into a short table with a nice 12 coil servo motor. That machine can handle up to a #20 needle so the max size of thread for that size of needle is V92. These portable sewing machines were originally designed as a on board sail cloth repair machine. It probably can sew up to a max thickness of 1/4" of material. They do have there place as all machines do but it would not be my first choice.

Since you are planning on sewing bag type items a cylinder arm machine would I think be a better choice in the Juki LS-341 or Juki LS-1341 class with a flatbed attachment. There are many clones in this class so you will have lots to choose from either in the new or used market.

Buy Once, Cry Once

Plano Mike

kgg

 

kgg

I didn't listen to your advice as closely as I should, especially since I was buying my first machine. The SailRite is a very good sewing machine for horizontal FLAT sewing. For gussets and vertical odd shapes, it just doesn't work. I sold the Leatherwork, and have a Cobra Class 26 on order with Springfield Leather. Thank you for being patient with us newbies and staying the course. I did though research this time based on the starting with what I've enjoyed making over the last 6 years, what I want to make, and input from you experienced makers.

Bought Once, Cried Once

[kgg]

1 hour ago, PlanoMike said:

I sold the Leatherwork, and have a Cobra Class 26 on order with Springfield Leather.

You should be pleased with the Cobra Class 26 which I think is a class 341 / 1341 machine. With a table attachment you should get the flexibility to be able to do most items. I think we all have bought a machine at some point that really didn't or wasn't capable of doing what we had hoped for.

kgg

 

[Wizcrafts]

9 hours ago, kgg said:

I think we all have bought a machine at some point that really didn't or wasn't capable of doing what we had hoped for.

Oh how true this is! About 6 months after I began doing leather work, I decided to make a leather vest from a Tandy pattern pack. I didn't have any sewing machines. The Tandy store manager had his Wife's slant needle Singer for sale on consignment and he let me try it on a piece of the leather I was going to use. It proceeded to break the needle upon contact with the leather. He suggested looking for an industrial sewing machine dealer. We looked one up in the Yellow Pages and I headed over there. The dealer sold me a heavy black Singer straight stitch model 96k40 I think, with a table and 1/2 hp clutch motor. That machine managed to sew the flat seams until I got to a third layer. Then it just stayed in that position and sewed through the same hole. I called the dealer and told him what was happening and he told me I needed a walking foot machine. He refused to take back the 96k and told me that the head would fit into the same hole in the table; just move the knee lever activator.

What he called a walking foot was actually a spring loaded follow foot and a light duty model at that. I thought that the follow foot machine was the cat's meow until I tried to sew a double leather belt and a pancake holster with #138 thread. No way, Jose! It took me four more wrong industrial machines before I got an actually qualified leather sewing machine that could sew holsters and double leather belts (gun belts, weightlifter's belts). This was before we had computers and the Internet in every home. All sewing machine purchases came from dealers or private persons who pushed what they had on hand. Now, we have knowledge being shared on this forum and dealers who know what makes a real leather sewing machine that can handle tough work and thick thread.

BTW: The first machine I found that could actually sew thick leather with thick thread was a Union Lockstitch machine. It came along about 3 years after I bought my first industrial sewing machine. Until then, I struggled to sew anything over 1/4 inch and couldn't effectively use #346 thread on anything except a Singer 132k6. Even that machine had trouble maintaining an even stitch length and holding down the leather as the large needle came up. Later on I learned that the 132k6 was meant to sew buffing wheels, not leather.