Edge on holster opening

[Davm]

Okay, more detail. Years ago I used just a single sheet of leather, say 8 oz.  And Mexican Double loop.  They were okay but a little flimsy.  Not like Great grandfather's "real" holster. So....I started taking two sheets of leather. The additional sheet was much thinner, 4 oz. so as you said when glued together you end up with a 12 oz. And..smooth on both sides- which is nice.  THOSE TWO Sheets never come apart and I use barge cement.  OKAY, so now I have my pattern all cut out.  Everything is flat, both sides of the pouch and the skirt above.  I now take one side of the pouch and fold it over and sew the edge.  THAT edge I have just sewn, no glue.  When it is first stitched it looks fine but a week or two later the edge has a crack in it.  It has now happened twice.  What I have done is use toothpicks to force the edge apart and more toothpicks to put barge cement in the crack and then clamp along the edge- using those office clamps for 20plus sheets of paper.  That has worked, the edge stays closed but I don't like making things that way.  I have been making the holes BEFORE stitching everything together on THE EDGE in question.  I've drilled the top then clamped it over the bottom and drilled the back half- hope that makes sense. With all the holes drilled I then saddle stitch.

My problem is AFTER the holes are drilled, if you glue, the glue sets up so fast that all the holes (the top side and the bottom side- have to line up or you are in big trouble.  As I see it there are two options.  One is to make all the holes and then apply glue along the edge and use steel nails/brads to temporarily hold it together and then pull one nail out at a time as the edge is stitched., the thread a substitute for the nails.  The other option is to not make any of the holes. Just glue the two edges and then make the holes.

I hope that clears up what I am trying to describe.  A third option, make all the holes on the top side- the side you see and glue and then use those holes as a guide and make holes through the back as you stitch the edge.

Edited June 16, 2021 by Davm

[Josh Ashman]

Totally understand now!

I basically do your second option. Glue it then make the holes and stitch it. Granted, you're now going through what amounts to 24 oz. of leather or about 3/8" or more if you use a welt. The process I described in my first post is how I go about it and it works well for me. 

Good luck! 

[Davm]

And while we are at it, on the broken awl tip.  This was a "stitching" awl- the type where you make loops in and out.  I was trying to make holes through about 1/2" or more of leather when I snapped the needle.  I think what I'll do is roll out the wheel for the top half of the pouch edge and make those holes. Then glue and clamp, then put in my makeshift stitching vise and make holes through the back half and then stitch it all up.  I usually make the portion from the stitches to the edge a little wider and trim it all down after the stitching is completed.

ANOTHER question.  I use glover needles.  Dull the tips as mentioned.  I run the first needle through a hole and then sort of pull on the thread to force it to one side of the hole and run the second needle through the hole from the opposite side (saddle stitch) but before I pull the second needle all the way through I "play" with the first thread, moving it in and out to make sure I did not accidentally piece the thread.  On a holster I'll generally not have a problem. Even on a belt, the perimeter, I make snag a couple of times but I'll back out the needle and try again.  Wondering how others do it.

[tsunkasapa]

Use harness needles. They come blunt, and they are longer than glovers, easier to manipulate. I have sewn a couple hundred YARDS through the last 40 years, and I doubt I have pierced the thread 4-5 times. The right tool for the job always makes the job easier. And a good sharp diamond awl beats those "stitching awls" every single time.

[Davm]

Not to be a dummy but- could you recommend a particular awl and will it make a hole through the holster pouch edge with the holster on a stitching clamp set up?  What I am thinking right now is to use the wheel on top of the edge to mark the spots and then an awl to make holes through the top half. Then apply glue and clamp both halves of the edge together and let dry.  Some glue will seep into the holes on the top half but I guess I can live with that. Then put the holster in a vise and use a good awl to go through the back half, using the existing holes on the top half for a guide. If I am a little off- that is, on the back instead of a straight line from hole to hole- I didn't pierce the hole at a perfect 90 degrees so on the back- a little off- it won't be seen so no one knows but myself.

On the skiving, I think I'll glue on an oversized liner and trim, then skive the edge- which will cut off the smooth liner surface along the edge and leave a rough surface to glue to a rough surface.

As I said before, these small details make a big difference and don't get discussed that much. Thanks for all the help.

 

AND.....we have another thread on border stamps but just out of curiosity how do most of you do it?  I am using a caliper and making a very light mark with an awl, then wet/card the leather, and when I stamp -the stamp impression obliterates the awl mark.  Even doing that a close inspection might show a tiny amount of different from stamp mark to stamp mark. 

Edited June 20, 2021 by Davm

[tsunkasapa]

Awl Haft - Weaver Leathercraft (weaverleathersupply.com)

Saddler's Harness Awl 2-1/4", 1.5 mm - Weaver Leathercraft (weaverleathersupply.com)

10 hours ago, Davm said:

and will it make a hole through the holster pouch edge with the holster on a stitching clamp set up? 

That is what they were designed to do. I have stabbed through over 1/2" of leather.

[Josh Ashman]

On 6/20/2021 at 10:41 AM, Davm said:

AND.....we have another thread on border stamps but just out of curiosity how do most of you do it?  I am using a caliper and making a very light mark with an awl, then wet/card the leather, and when I stamp -the stamp impression obliterates the awl mark.  Even doing that a close inspection might show a tiny amount of different from stamp mark to stamp mark. 

I used to layout the spacing for double border type stamps as you have described above. I stopped and just started "eyeballing" the spacing as it's tenuously quicker and actually works out better for going around curves. Start in the corners and go out in both directions and skip tot he end and work backwards for a while so you have space to put any odd spaces in the middle of a run where they are less noticeable. 

Also, plus 1 on stabbing your holes through the complete seam once it's all stitched up. It's just so much more simple to stab your holes through the whole thing than to try and fuss around getting holes that were pre stabbed/punched in different layers lined up. 

All the best, Josh