needle systems Needle size causing a problem?

[Marykins]

I am wondering..... I bought a brand new  CB 341 and included was a pk of 135-16 size 22 leather needles.  They worked fine and I made a really nice men's fanny pack in 5-6oz leather- no trouble .  With my initial purchase I also requested to buy a smaller needle size for the machine in size 19 for thinner leather & thread.  However with the next project, when I switched over to the lighter needles TERRIBLE issues began of breaking needles and also not picking up bobbin thread etc.  Maddening!!!  In looking back at my invoice, I realize that the needles sent were NOT a 135x16 or 135x17 but a 134-35 system-  which were at least 1/4" shorter than the needles called for the CB341.

My question is..... Are those two really interchangeable or were all my troubles were because they sent the wrong needles? I cannot find any info online about it so thought you 'PROS' might give me a clue?

[Constabulary]

when the machine is set up for 135x17 / 16 then shorter needles will not work - never ever - only when you lower the needle bar but better buy the right needle system.

Edited June 26, 2021 by Constabulary

[Marykins]

Thanks for your input.  That's what my hunch was, but am new to the 135x17 needle system and thought maybe there was something I did not know & perhaps they were supposed to be interchangeable. Obviously the sewing machine sales company made a mistake in sending the wrong needle size. What a way to introduce a new machine! HA! 

[LindanHotAir]

Normally the 135x17 will be textile point needles and the 135x16 will be leather points.  Those are the only systems you should use in your machine as it is set up. The needle system determines the length, eye position, and shank diameter. The needle size in metric specifies the needle diameter in tenths of a millimeter. For example a 110 is 1.1 mm diameter. You can get those needles with titanium nitride coating for a few cents more per needle. Groz-Beckert calls their titanium coated needles GEBEDUR. They run cooler with less friction so they last longer and reduce thread shredding.  The needle manufacturer web sites have a large store of useful information.

[CowboyBob]

Just to clarify the 135x17 measures 38.9 & the 134-35 is 38.1 that is 0.8 mm approx 1/32" difference.If the machine is already tested for the 134-35 then the 135x17 will also work.We sell alot of the 134-35 to people with the 135x17 or 16 & always mention if they have a problem with skipping stitches they might need to lower the needlebar a small amount.

Edited July 7, 2021 by CowboyBob

[Wizcrafts]

I was a little confused by this post because of the mention of System 134-35 needles. I have since learned a few things about them and why one might choose to use them in a machine that normally uses System 135x16 needles.

As Bob mentioned before me, there is only a 32nd of an inch (0.8mm) difference in the length from the top of the shank to the eye. One thing about the system 134-35 needles is that Schmetz needles are available in an "S" point, just like the S points used in the Cowboy, Cobra and Techsew big harness stitchers in their System 794 needles. So, for the loss of 3/32 inch of length one can get S point needles that sew inline stitches instead of slightly tilted stitches.

As I have also learned, if one advances the hook (not recommended), or re-positions the needle bar down a tad (better), the hook can arrive higher up in the scarf above the eye with system 135x16 needles and still be in time with the ever so slightly shorter System 134-35 needles. This way you could switch between regular leather points and Schmetz S points with no further adjustments. I haven't tried this yet, but intend to. One just has to ensure that the needle moves about 3/32" up from BDC when the hook intersects the needle higher up in the scarf, maybe 5/32" above the eye instead of 1/16". Once I get me some 134-35 schmetz S points I will report my findings based upon a Singer 139w109 long arm walking foot machine.