Members Spyros Posted November 18, 2021 Members Report Posted November 18, 2021 Every single leather I've tried behaves differently, so I've completely stopped creating rules in my mind like "In veg tan do this, in combination tan do that"... Every time I get some leather that is new to me I always have to do a series of tests that include dying, burnishing, glueing and finishing, otherwise I really don't know what's gonna happen. In most cases I don't wet the leather, but I use a mix of fiebings pro with neatsfoot oil, I find I get better consistency and I can generally better control the colour and the process like that. Plus it's (usually) good for the leather to get some NFO in it. However, I once dyed the flesh side of a nice english bridle panel with this mix, I got careless and put a bit too much on by mistake, and it seeped right through and destroyed the colour on the other side. That was one expensive piece of leather in the rubbish So. Testing, testing, testing. Quote
Members Silverd Posted November 27, 2021 Members Report Posted November 27, 2021 With Saddle or neadsfoot oil. Silver Quote
Members FGBR Posted November 27, 2021 Members Report Posted November 27, 2021 That facehugger is awesome. Well done. Quote
Members Silverd Posted December 2, 2021 Members Report Posted December 2, 2021 On 11/26/2021 at 5:41 PM, Silverd said: With Saddle or neadsfoot oil. Silver I'm not sure it matters. I use them both, the saddle oil may not darken as much but only slightly. The objective is to use the oil as a carrier for the dye to obtain slightly deeper penetration into the leather than the dye on its own would go. Some dyes, when applied in sufficient quatity will go too dark for my liking. When I spray apply light coatings, the dye will sometimes sit on the surface. When the final product is say "scratched" by the user, the natural color underneath is exposed. The deeper the penetration the better. This is the down side of using natural vegtan instead of aniline leather. I think if water base dye were used, dampening the leather first with water would have the same effect...but I rarely use water base dyes...mabey I should! And, every leather is unique so it's impossible to adopt only one process. Another consideration is the color of the dye. For instance RED PRO dye can be applied quite heavily without it going dark and therefore does not require pretreatment. Love that. But BLUE PRO dye will turn almost black if applied heavy. Lots of fun! Silverd Quote
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