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Danne

Working area in progress (Will keep updating here)

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I'm not sure if anyone is interested, or if it's ok to share here, since it's also some wood working photos during the progress. but it's still leather related since it's my working area, and maybe it can give other inspiration, or give me ideas what I can add to my working area. (Keep in mind that I have no experience working with wood, and it might not be perfect since I had to work with hand held machines like circle saw, plunge router, and chisels and other hand tools. Since I had to buy those tools, I now understand that a small circle saw table would have been more useful for me, because it was far from easy to plan the cutting of small parts with a circle saw.

I'm updating my working area a little bit, replacing desk, building tool board, leather storage, skiving machine, new tools. The plan is to have most of the tools on the tool board in black, for the tools with wood, I will go for African blackwood/Grenadilla for some of the tools from Palosanto or Okada. Some tools I don't feel like I need to update since i'm happy with them, like skiving knives from Kyoshin Elle will get their handles ebonized with India ink (Probably the same thing with my handle for my Regad Fileteuse.)

 

First a 3d-drawing of the plan. The card board tubes up at the roof on the left side is to store leather, it will be a perfect place since it's space I don't use, and I have a smaller apartment, so planning is important.

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I had a smaller setback, I bought a 2.8m long glulam board, but it was really warped. But the desk will look similar to this. I'm just waiting for my Ikea Karlby (Custom size take a while to get delivered)

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Two Ikea drawer cabinets for storage, here is the thread storage and some tools and material. Dividers is made with foam board glued together with a hot glue gun.

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Here is the plan for my new table top. Five legs (The middle leg positioned under my granite plate) and two steel angle iron 20x20x3mm that will be screwed to the desk. The desk will also be screwed to the wall (concrete) with angle brackets. (If anyone have any input on this solution, feel free to share)

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And some photos of the tool board, it will be two shelves, and two magnet holders. The upper magnet holder is thicker and have larger holes for edge bevelers and such, and ten ~11.1mm holes for Ksblade hole punches. 

The holes on the magnet holders are for 0.9kg neodymium magnets. (Tested so they have the correct strength for my tools) they will be covered with leather.

Not assembled here just placed on top.

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A couple of photos from the making of the parts for my tool board.

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I made a mistake on one hole when I drilled the holes for hole punches (I decided to do an insert, and I drilled the insert on a drill press instead) Satisfying clip? 

Video clip (magnet holder insert)

 

This is a slow project, but I will keep updating until it's finished (If you are interested to see of course)

 

Edited by Danne

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Very nice work, even with hand tools.  Please keep the pics and progress coming.

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11 minutes ago, PastorBob said:

Very nice work, even with hand tools.  Please keep the pics and progress coming.

Thank you, yes I will update :)

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Did you skin those animals on the computer screen?  :rip_1:   They would make good gloves.

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3 minutes ago, mike02130 said:

Did you skin those animals on the computer screen?  :rip_1:   They would make good gloves.

No, I will not make any otter gloves or watch straps lol.

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I think you will  get some great projects done in that awesome work space.

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A small update. A sanding block, and a 60 degree gluing jig (in progress) just machined o these photos.

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6 hours ago, Danne said:

a 60 degree gluing jig (in progress) just machined

What do you make that you would use a 60 degree jig?  When I make wallets I use a 90 degree jig.  

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8 hours ago, mike02130 said:

What do you make that you would use a 60 degree jig?  When I make wallets I use a 90 degree jig.  

I will use it for wallets, we all prefer different methods.

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Yeah I realize we all use "different methods".  I'm not criticizing.  Maybe I wasn't specific enough?  I should've asked why.  I would think that when the wallet was open it would place a lot of stress and pull on the interior.  I'm hoping to learn something here.  I'm not arguing.

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Definitely will following along on this one. Always looking for new ideas on organizing my shop. :thumbsup:

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wow, such meticulous work.   What 3D program did you use for the rendering on the first picture?   My oldest is (FINALLY) moving out in (HOPEFULLY) February so I hope to take it over before the wife expands her quilting empire. 

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5 hours ago, mike02130 said:

Yeah I realize we all use "different methods".  I'm not criticizing.  Maybe I wasn't specific enough?  I should've asked why.  I would think that when the wallet was open it would place a lot of stress and pull on the interior.  I'm hoping to learn something here.  I'm not arguing.

Sorry if it did sound as I was rude. It wasn't my intention.

So I usually glue my wallets around a 10mm thick cutting board, but I only glue edges. This way the wallet folds really nice, and when you open it there is not stress on the exterior/lining, exterior "bulge out" a little bit, and edges open with a slight curve. Most of my wallets are made that way. But I plan to make alligator wallets, and wallets with exterior in other leather that are a little bit softer and some of them "stretchy" so my plan is to glue let's say 0.7mm alligator against ~0.3mm Salamander salpa around a 60 degree curve, and then I will glue this against the lining (only edges) on another jig that is like a cutting board in thickness. (I will show you that jig here when it's finished.) 

Why do I prefer a tighter curve than 90 degree? because I find that 90 degree result in a little bit of wrinkles when exterior and lining is fully glued. And also the wallet wont stay closed (depending on the type of leather) if not put under pressure for a while. And I haven't decided how to make my alligator exteriors yet, but I will probably not fully glue them alone against lining, because I don't want visible scales through lining.

So why do I spend a lot of time making a 60 degree jig, if it may not work? because I have seen other good crafters use 60 degree jigs with good results, so it's a good start for my tests.

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2 hours ago, JayEhl said:

wow, such meticulous work.   What 3D program did you use for the rendering on the first picture?   My oldest is (FINALLY) moving out in (HOPEFULLY) February so I hope to take it over before the wife expands her quilting empire. 

It's Sketchup, and I think I used Twilight render (it's free) or it might have been V-ray, I know I did experiment a little bit with V-ray for a while, but it's quite complicated. Twilight is not that advanced. The skiving machine is just a cropped photo I put in with Photoshop.

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6 hours ago, Danne said:

So I usually glue my wallets around a 10mm thick cutting board, but I only glue edges

So, your wallets have an "air pocket" inside then?

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8 hours ago, Hardrada said:

So, your wallets have an "air pocket" inside then?

When they are opened it's a gap between exterior leather and lining yes. I can't see how other crafters that only glue the edges would do it in another way than around something flat. Because it would instantly start to bulge and wrinkle if glued around a degree jig. 

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More updates. I didn't get exactly 60 degrees (I measure it to 65 degrees) but it doesn't matter. My setup for routing the chamfer (with a plunge router) wasn't perfect, but at least it's straight, and 60 or 65 degrees doesn't matter.

Plan for the 60 degree fixture:

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A couple of photos of my jigs oiled and drying:

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And a mistake. (My work table slipped away a little bit, and I changed the angle of my router a little bit) I tried to fill this with glue and wood dust, but I didn't get it deep enough so I sanded it away once dried. When the oil is completely dried, I will sand it down slightly and try to fix this better before the next layer of oil. 

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Edited by Danne

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I sure wish you had not posted the jigs, now I have to get to work on my own. Everything is looking good.:yeah:

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29 minutes ago, rleather said:

I sure wish you had not posted the jigs, now I have to get to work on my own. Everything is looking good.:yeah:

Thank you. Of course I have no clue what tools you have access too. But the only machines I have are a plunge router and a circle saw and drill press.

If your situation are the same and you plan to do a 60 degree jig. This is how I did the setup for the chamfer. (Not the correct bit in this photo) I did route the radii before.

 

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Thanks great info!

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A new holder for fileteuse irons. (Not fully sanded and oiled yet)

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10 hours ago, Danne said:

And a mistake. (My work table slipped away a little bit, and I changed the angle of my router a little bit) I tried to fill this with glue and wood dust, but I didn't get it deep enough so I sanded it away once dried. When the oil is completely dried, I will sand it down slightly and try to fix this better before the next layer of oil. 

Take a knife or a chisel and cut a shim (wedge) from a scrap of wood and glue in there.

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Such great wood working so far.  Extreme diligence in your designs and work.   

Being new, I've never heard of using a 'jig' for making a wallet so this is new and is making me curious.   Can someone point me to a video of how this is used? 

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22 minutes ago, mike02130 said:

Take a knife or a chisel and cut a shim (wedge) from a scrap of wood and glue in there.

The gap is super small, it might look larger than what it is. And it did work awesome with wood glue and wood from sanding. But I didn't get it deep enough, I did fix another small defect on another thing I made, and instead of mixing wood with glue, I pushed down glue and put "saw dust" on top and pushed it down in the glue, and the result was really good.

But will keep your solution in mind if I would do other mistakes where it's larger.

Edited by Danne

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