Messenger bag lining

[johnnydb]

2 hours ago, gordond said:

As said .. considerations for function and aesthetics.....

Bag shown here had to carry vinyl album covers (utterly packed) internationally to a crowded music festival(s) - for autograph hunting. I did very well (the bag certainly helped )..

The lining had to be slick to get these covers out really fast without damage (microseconds to get said autographs ..lol!).. rolled edges aid to that also. Plus a liner was required to cover the plugged embossed facia.. lining here is 0.5mm thin goat (upholstery refinish dye/acrylic) --- simply spray glued on. .Included is a inner hardboard (Masonite) "box" lined with soft nylon plush to hold the bag "square" ...think this plush was used for covering commercial wall partitions - cube farm office (Nb :for those who have seen this bag..I had to strip the top finish as it had denatured and started to get quite smelly .. hence some acrylic came away with it ..not a biggie to fix)

Now ..going down that lining path can be eye opening and wallet emptying!.. many decades ago I started with clutch purses .. click close/ framed, lined .. the lining stumped me .. finally tracked the "right" stuff - I'm talking about competing with top boutique brands here..great ..but potentially had to buy the whole roll.. (equivalent to 2 weeks wages at that time).. it definitely was a specific nylon(?) fabric designed for long life, good domestic abrasion resistance... Actually need to track down more .. anyone care to pitch some suggestions or some real specifics would be appreciated.

I just have to say that your bag looks awesome...very unique and nice at the same time. 

I usually pick up cloth at the sewing/hobby stores...they usually have a wide variety... even upholstery fabric and pleather. I think that I've seen something similar there but I'm not sure. And with the current supply chain interruptions... especially nylon you are going to need some luck finding it. (Basic Materials stock's Earnings release report mentioned issues with nylon specifically)

[gordond]

3 hours ago, johnnydb said:

I just have to say that your bag looks awesome...very unique and nice at the same time. 

Thanks..nice work yourself.

Yes .. upholstery grade material....forgot myself that jacket lining is also a viable material... The lining I mentioned from days of old "apparently" was far superior than that ... specific to bags and wallets (possibly salesman double talk..lol!)

Back to the OP's question..guess it comes down to a variety of considerations... The lining has to last and in many cases is easily cleaned.. doesn't fray or damage in higher wear areas..etc...

Then as said ..we get into french edges ..and skiving folding etc..a lot of options. but as you said simply folding the fabric over and sewing could suit.

Or alternatively binding (meh - never liked that - but have done in a few cases).

[Meandmy1963]

I think I might use an old flannel shirt at a lining. I really think it's going to look good and function well. What adhesive do y'all recommend to adhere the flannel fabric to the backside of the leather? I feel like barge is going to soak through. I could be wrong. Maybe if I'm careful enough with it. But seems like a lot of people would use a spray adhesive for this. Maybe I'll test the barge and see how it works on a scrap piece. Honestly though... The spray adhesive option is a quite attractive one. I hate using barge. It stinks, if you get it in the wrong place it can ruin an entire project, and it's an all around pain in the ass to work with. Can't argue with the bond you get from it though. I've never used a spray adhesive before, but seems easy enough. Do y'all think that's what I should do to line the backside of the leather with the fabric from a flannel shirt? (It's a fairly average fabric. Not thin but not crazy thick. Pretty much what you would expect from a decently made flannel shirt)

[fredk]

Sprat can adhesive. Has the main advantage of being able to cover a large area very quickly

1. a light spray coat of adhesive.

2. let it 'flash' off, ie let the solvent evaporate, takes just a minute

3. check tacky of adhesive, not wet just sticky

4. lay material on

5. use a brayer to press and flatten the lining material

Only a light coat of adhesive is needed. It just needs to hold the liner in place, there is no stress on it

[Meandmy1963]

I've decided that's what I'm going to do. Line the back of each leather panel with flannel. I'll be using a spray adhesive. Now I need to figure out exactly how I'm gonna do my edges. I'm leaning towards folding my edges over the fabric for a clean look. This wasn't the plan in the beginning as I was looking for a rugged look with natural edges finished with beeswax. I may still do it this way as I'm seeing a lot of tutorials online on how to do edges with the fabric backing(ie folding the fabric and cutting the leather to size after the fabric is adhered) likely I'm going to do a combination of things to get the look I want while making sure the fabric lining looks right and isn't going to fray over time

[johnnydb]

Either will work...just depends on what you are comfortable with using. 

Barge definitely needs curing time before the cloth is attached or you will get bleed through...but it can't be too much or else it won't stick... meaning that your coat needs to be extremely even. One of those small paint rollers can really help when doing this...the brush in the can?  Not going to recommend that whatsoever. 

Sprays can go everywhere you don't want...so some blue masking tape is going to be proscribed. 

[fredk]

1 hour ago, Meandmy1963 said:

. . .  Now I need to figure out exactly how I'm gonna do my edges. I'm leaning towards folding my edges over the fabric for a clean look. . . . 

When I attach the the thin leather lining I

1. cut the lining close to the size needed

2. on the inside of my main piece I draw a line where my stitching will be, allowing for a trim cut - lets say, 6mm in from the edge, allowing 1 or 2mm trim 

3. I draw a line between the stitching line and the edge, in this pretend case it would be about 3 or 4mm from the edge / 3 or 2mm from the stitching line

4. after I glue the lining on and before the glue has fully cured I use a very sharp knife to trim the lining leather to that intermediate line and peel away the excess

5. if or when I skive the edge before sewing the lining leather just gets a touch.

6. I glue and sew the next piece to the first. The edge of the lining is hidden but caught in the sewing

7. at an edge where there is no other piece to be sewn on, like the outer edge of a bag flap, I skive the edge of the main piece back about 10mm then just glue the lining leather to it. making sure that the edge is full glued down, then I trim it to tidy it

 

Edited October 28, 2021 by fredk

[Spyros]

4 hours ago, Meandmy1963 said:

I've decided that's what I'm going to do. Line the back of each leather panel with flannel. I'll be using a spray adhesive. Now I need to figure out exactly how I'm gonna do my edges. I'm leaning towards folding my edges over the fabric for a clean look. This wasn't the plan in the beginning as I was looking for a rugged look with natural edges finished with beeswax. I may still do it this way as I'm seeing a lot of tutorials online on how to do edges with the fabric backing(ie folding the fabric and cutting the leather to size after the fabric is adhered) likely I'm going to do a combination of things to get the look I want while making sure the fabric lining looks right and isn't going to fray over time

I once took a leatherworking course, and the instructor said that in luxury leather items the order from most luxurious to less luxurious is: 1) turned edges 2) painted edges 3) burnished edges.  So you're picking the most luxurious option

It's also probably the most time consuming option, you'll have to skive a fair bit to get the leather to fold properly.    Although painting also takes a lot of time because technically you have to build layers with drying time and sanding in between.  Burnishing is definitely the fastest.

To be honest, although I most definitely appreciate the craftsmaship in the end result, I find turned edges a bit too formal and maybe a little old fashioned.  But that's just me, I just like more casual stuff, you should follow your vision