Tying thin thread to needles

[zuludog]

MIKE02130 ---I adjust the lengths of the tail and the working length to have a long tail and the length of the working or active thread about 3" longer than that. This gives me enough free working thread to pull the stitches down neatly, and to cast the stitch. It's easy enough to slide the needle along and adjust the working thread to a length that suits you.

Or after pulling the thread through the stitching hole you can simply let go of the tail & needle, which will give you the whole of the working length to cast & finish that stitch; but as i said, this relies on the thread being waxy & sticky enough that the needle will not slip off by itself, and I've never had a problem with that.

Before I did leather work I repaired tents & rucsacs, plus general sewing like fixing buttons & minor tears, and still do. I never locked on the needle & thread for that, and I wondered why you have to do it for leatherwork?

Edited December 6, 2021 by zuludog

[chrisash]

the above is correct, As i pull the needle through as soon as possible i hold the end of the needle clasping both the needle as well as the thread, but normally there is enough friction on the long tail to stop and pull through

[tsunkasapa]

[jcuk]

You can also get smaller needles they are called JJ saddlers needles but unlike harness needles (blunt point) they are sharp should not be a problem if you are using stitching chisels or if you are using an awl,  just pre-prick your stitch marks if you are adept with a awl still be carful (ouch) .

https://www.jjneedles.com/images/needles-guide/Hand_Sewing_Needle_Size_Guide_Type_Length.pdf scroll down to saddlers and harness needles to compare sizes.

https://www.abbeyengland.com/john-james-saddler-14-s-sewing-needle-fn003 don't if you can get them where you are

Hope this helps

JCUK