Jump to content
Falkalem

Flesh side finishing of portfolio

Recommended Posts

Hi all! I’m fairly new to leathercrafting, been poking around the shadows of the forums for a while but this is my first post. I’m looking for recommendations on how to finish the flesh side/interior side of a portfolio/binder cover. I don’t have any lining material, and it doesn’t need to be water resistant. I am not planning to stain the interior (I’ve tried on a few pieces and I keep getting bleed through on the 5oz leather I’m using). I have some cuts that have a fairly smooth flesh side. Besides SnoSeal since I don’t need to waterproof, and lining it since I don’t have anything to line with…any recommendations? Thanks for the help! Maybe one day I’ll have good recommendations for someone like the today me. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bees wax - warm some bees wax and warm up your piece. Rub in a good coating of bees wax, use a hair dryer to help make the wax soak into the leather. When you have a very good coating all over, leave it to harden, then buff it until your arms fall off

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, fredk said:

Bees wax - warm some bees wax and warm up your piece. Rub in a good coating of bees wax, use a hair dryer to help make the wax soak into the leather. When you have a very good coating all over, leave it to harden, then buff it until your arms fall off

Fredt - thanks for the reply. What’s the difference between plain beeswax and SnoSeal? I though SnoSeal just had another ingredient in it with a lower melting point to help get the beeswax absorbed into the leather? 
 

another follow up - I’ve had great luck in general using SnoSeal, but for whatever the reason, on this project, it keep getting random bleed through of the SnoSeal onto the grain side. I’ve already dyed and coated the exterior with Resolene. But then the SnoSeal left a giant dark splotch in the center of my piece. I don’t think I applied it any heavier there than elsewhere. Anything to be said about SnoSeal the flesh side before coating the grain side with resolene? Any chance already having resolene on one side didn’t allow the SnoSeal to breathe/therefore dry? Grasping at straws over here. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SnoSeal is a waterproofing for boots, it is supposed to penetrate DEEPLY into the leather to keep water out. I would keep it completely away from any project that is not Camping/Hunting/Work/Outdoor oriented. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Burnish it with Tokonole. You'll need a glass burnisher, though.

Glass_Slicker_540x.jpg

If the leather isn't too fuzzy or shedding, you can always leave it as is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And if it IS too fuzzy/shaggy, it can be sanded to get rid of the loose fibers. I've also 'pasted' the back with Fiebing's Antique Stain. Not the paste or the gel. I haven't used them so I can't speak to that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Hardrada said:

Burnish it with Tokonole. You'll need a glass burnisher, though.

I concur

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...