Beginner's finish- carved leather

[Davm]

I have been practicing on scraps of leather and also trying the effects of dye- either the whole thing or just the background areas.  It seems to me that the pear shading, etc. can get lost if you dye the entire area and on the background- for me- too big a likelihood of getting dye into the wrong area. So.. at least on my first few efforts I think I just want to leave the entire thing in a natural state, thus preserving the carving but I need some sort of sealer, a clear and maybe just a hint of darkening or tanning.  What would be the best product? Thanks.

[chuck123wapati]

1 minute ago, Davm said:

I have been practicing on scraps of leather and also trying the effects of dye- either the whole thing or just the background areas.  It seems to me that the pear shading, etc. can get lost if you dye the entire area and on the background- for me- too big a likelihood of getting dye into the wrong area. So.. at least on my first few efforts I think I just want to leave the entire thing in a natural state, thus preserving the carving but I need some sort of sealer, a clear and maybe just a hint of darkening or tanning.  What would be the best product? Thanks.

i use super sheen, don't know if it is the best or not but you can also use it as a resist so that your dye doesn't get where you don't want it. If you want it natural apply super sheen then you can dye the background or whatever without ruining. Alot of folks use 50/50 acrylic floor wax like mop n glo and water as a sealer also.

[Davm]

Thanks- I'll try the super sheen.  Now for a mea culpa:

I need to practice more with the swivel knife.  I want to "jump right in" and not do the practice work making circles, etc.  On the longer  curves I am having trouble making a nice smooth curve- as in scrolls, etc.  On the decorative cuts, the best seem to have a slight curve at the top and then sweep down. That little curve at the top- having trouble with that.

The pear shader.  On the you tube videos the guys make it look easy but I seem to be having trouble. I thought the main idea was to indent the leather but now I'm thinkin the shade mark is darker and that accounts for much of the look. I have 2 smooth pear shaders but I think an even smaller size might be needed in some areas. I see pear shaders with a waffle surface rather than smooth- why? Does it give a darker shade?

Bevel- okay except for the tight spots, I got a smaller beveler and I'm working on that.

I really like carving leather- I hope I get good at it.

[chuck123wapati]

4 minutes ago, Davm said:

Thanks- I'll try the super sheen.  Now for a mea culpa:

I need to practice more with the swivel knife.  I want to "jump right in" and not do the practice work making circles, etc.  On the longer  curves I am having trouble making a nice smooth curve- as in scrolls, etc.  On the decorative cuts, the best seem to have a slight curve at the top and then sweep down. That little curve at the top- having trouble with that.

The pear shader.  On the you tube videos the guys make it look easy but I seem to be having trouble. I thought the main idea was to indent the leather but now I'm thinkin the shade mark is darker and that accounts for much of the look. I have 2 smooth pear shaders but I think an even smaller size might be needed in some areas. I see pear shaders with a waffle surface rather than smooth- why? Does it give a darker shade?

Bevel- okay except for the tight spots, I got a smaller beveler and I'm working on that.

I really like carving leather- I hope I get good at it.

the shaders add depth and form to your flat surface. The main idea is to add the illusion of shape to your object with them.  Yes you will need different sizes. The "waffle" type just adds some texture to your object, A flower petal compared to a ruffle in a banner for example. flower smooth, banner rough. However there are no hard and fast rules on how you use these tools most were designed and created by people who had a specific use in their style of art. so the rest of us unless we copy their style learn to adapt them. And to make our own sometimes lol.

 Practice on every scrap you have and the bellies if you buy full sides, i hate doing the mundane type practice also so i just cut what comes to mind and see how it works. Lifters also make a big dif in the form of your objects and work in conjunction with your shaders to create the three dimensional look.

 I also practice my designs at least once on scrap before committing to a project, this allows me to practice my tooling, see if the design works, test colors and finishes etc. When first starting one time i did probably a dozen roses before finally doing the project. 

[JayEhl]

As in most all things, practice, practice, practice... .and then practice some more.  

Learning to use your swivel knife is the basis for the rest of your work, (my opinion).   Here are two good videos from Alden School of Leather I used to help me:

https://youtu.be/oHx6R42NLAc
https://youtu.be/JA_1tHXyf3E

I'm sure others will have their own favorites. 

For pear shaders I've found that if I strike it first with a quick tap it sets it so it won't move when I strike it the second time but harder.  The friction/energy from the strike causes the burnish.  Smooth Pear Shaders won't provide AS much of a burnish as I've come to find out, as well.   But just keep practicing.   And be sure to have fun along the way

 

[Davm]

I am thinking most of you probably bought the Tandy Leatherworkers Guide.  It starts with a square practice piece that has one flower and some stems, etc.  I want to keep working on that one pattern until I am happy with the results.  Last night I spent a lot more time with the pear shading tool than in the prior efforts. I originally didn't realize that the burnishing aspect that darkens the leather is part of the effect being sought.  So I have made some progress there.  I went really slow on cutting the pattern and that went well. I find in going slow I cut a little deeper without as much effort.  In any event it is the decorative cuts I have to work on so, as stated- practice.

On the background, I cannot get the tool into the smallest areas, close but I am missing it a little. I ended up using an awl and poking a similar pattern into the tiny areas and that looks pretty good. The tool used to transfer the pattern to leather, the stylus with the spoon.  On some areas that have sort of ragged edges I used the spoon to smooth out. I don't know if these two things are "tricks of the trade" or not but they sort of "dressed up" a few rough spots.  What I did last night, my 4th effort at the same pattern, was the first real improvement so I am more optimistic. 

[chuck123wapati]

10 minutes ago, Davm said:

I am thinking most of you probably bought the Tandy Leatherworkers Guide.  It starts with a square practice piece that has one flower and some stems, etc.  I want to keep working on that one pattern until I am happy with the results.  Last night I spent a lot more time with the pear shading tool than in the prior efforts. I originally didn't realize that the burnishing aspect that darkens the leather is part of the effect being sought.  So I have made some progress there.  I went really slow on cutting the pattern and that went well. I find in going slow I cut a little deeper without as much effort.  In any event it is the decorative cuts I have to work on so, as stated- practice.

On the background, I cannot get the tool into the smallest areas, close but I am missing it a little. I ended up using an awl and poking a similar pattern into the tiny areas and that looks pretty good. The tool used to transfer the pattern to leather, the stylus with the spoon.  On some areas that have sort of ragged edges I used the spoon to smooth out. I don't know if these two things are "tricks of the trade" or not but they sort of "dressed up" a few rough spots.  What I did last night, my 4th effort at the same pattern, was the first real improvement so I am more optimistic. 

your on the right track, shoot a picture and folks can help out more with suggestions.

[JLSleather]

8 hours ago, Davm said:

I want to keep working on that one pattern until I am happy with the results.

That's exactly what I did when I started out.  Used to be "craftaids" were the thing, little plastic templates (I still have some of them).  No tracing, no copying, just rub on damp leather to put your pattern on there. Idea was, I wanted to practice CARVING, not practice TRACING and DRAWING.  So I would git a chunk o leather and do THAT design, repeatedly, until it looked like the picture that came with it.  Definitely RUINED some leather, but wasn't long before I was carving away (the guy who said he was going to "teach" me ended up trying to HIRE me).

8 hours ago, Davm said:

I used the spoon to smooth out.

Yup.

On 12/21/2021 at 8:46 AM, Davm said:

the shade mark is darker and that accounts for much of the look.

Yup.

On 12/21/2021 at 8:46 AM, Davm said:

I see pear shaders with a waffle surface rather than smooth- why? Does it give a darker shade?

Yup.

On 12/20/2021 at 10:03 AM, Davm said:

some sort of sealer, a clear and maybe just a hint of darkening or tanning.  What would be the best product?

I like Tan-Kote on my carved projects.  ALMOST no darkening of the leather... allows your tooling to show through where the leather darkened from shading or beveling.  No fancy toolin' neither - just dribble some on and smooth it with the palm o yer hand (remove kitty hair from your hand before use).  Work it into the cuts and depressions enough so you don't have any 'bald' spots.  Very simple to use.  Later - if you like - you can add a bit of DYE right in the tan kote for custom shades (I use a separate little  bottle, a bit goes a LONG way).

Chuck is correct... some pics would make it easier fer folks to help out with specific stuff.  When I started, some of my early work went right in the trash (after comparing to the pic it was SUPPOSED to look like and also using it to test dye colors, finishes, etc - no point carving another one WELL, then messing up the GOOD one with a bad dye job!)

See kin I find a thing what got Tan-Kote'd ...

Okay, here we go.  The wide belt on the left was FOR ME, and I LIKE that natural leather color.  Obviously the leaves and letters used some DYE.  The rest of the belt got a couple LIGHT coats of neatsfoot oil and then TAN KOTE.  It slightly darkened the tool impressions, basically left the rest unchanged (maybe a SLIGHT darkening).

 

The belt on the right is a simple one done good while back using one of those 'craftaid" templates.  Pattern is from the 80's - I think - and STILL gets requested (in fact, I think that craftaid is still available in stores).  The background was dyed in thinned chocolate dye, and the seeds in the design.  Then the entire belt got TAN KOTE'd, transferring a bit of the dye to the depressions in the leather, thus following the natural darkening of the tooling (some them 'fancy' folk call it 'burnishing").

[Davm]

I did a holster yesterday and the carving came out pretty good- not up to a "pro's" level but all in all- okay. In any event I'm pretty happy with how it came out.  You see some old, original cowboy holsters where the carving isn't as good.   I am going to use a rawhide lace and the double loops will cover part of the carving: in all- it will be okay. It is for a Ruger 22 rimfire Wrangler which will be a "fun" gun to tote around and do some plinking.  I have a 4" S& W and I'll make the same holster and same pattern for that- hopefully a little better.

Question: this is a single layer, my prior holsters were double (glued together)- smooth on both sides. For the rough side- is there any sort of special treatment or just use Tan-Kote or Super sheen? Thanks.

[JLSleather]

1 hour ago, Davm said:

For the rough side- is there any sort of special treatment or just use Tan-Kote or Super sheen? Thanks.

THere are a number of "commercial" products, each with its' own accompanying line of bull intended to sell it to you.  I personally do not put ANYTHING on the flesh side of unlined holsters.  Depending on if you're one of those guys who puts his gun away IN A LEATHER HOLSTER and DRIPPING gun oil, that might be a consideration ... but you shouldn't be doing either of those things, so not a problem.

[Davm]

I've been critiquing my work.  The rawhide lace.  If you search around on the internet, nothing about it.  First off, if you look at some of the old holsters from the wild west, the rawhide wraps are right next to each other.  The only way you can get that is if you slant the slits at about 45 degrees so that the top of one slit lined up with the bottom of the next slit.   Well I did that and got the spacing set.  The lace was given to me and is about 3/16" wide. (I took a woodcarving tool and ground it down to make a slit tool) Tandy sells 1/8" lace but it is not as wide as you see on some original "Old West" holsters and the 3/16 is better.  I have a Tandy rotary wheel with 10 points per inch that spaced the slits apart about what I wanted so I used that.  The bottom of each slit starts at the point impression and then slants up at 45 degrees.  The slits are parallel to one another. Unfortunately I didn't think about this-on a holster you have curves and if it is an outside curve that will splay the wraps farther apart and if it is an inside curve the wraps will get bunched up too tightly so... if you want it to look right the spacing between the slits needs to be modified on the curves.  I didn't realize it so on my holster on the outside curves the wraps are a little apart- something to correctly on the next holster. I am going to make the same holster a couple of times as I have several revolvers of the same size.  I'll try to post a photo. The swivel knife curves could have been a little better although by the time you shade and bevel that sort of compensates.