Members ClaudioBravo Posted January 16, 2022 Author Members Report Posted January 16, 2022 Last year, I wanted to complement our line of evening dresses with women's bags-purses. After a dozen You Tube videos from Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Chanel and Dior, it was clear to me that everyone uses cylindrical machines with compound drive for the bags and there was no dilemma what to buy. I chose Durkopp Adler 669. One local dealer asked me for 3100€ + VAT and the other for 3300€ + VAT, but with a binder variant. And then I discovered that for that money I only get the ECO variant, so pure mechanics. For "electronics", in fact a pneumatic machine, they asked me twice, almost 6600 € + VAT When I went to both companies and looked at a dozen new Durkopp Adler machines, I saw that they were all made in the Czech Republic. And honestly, I didn't like giving so much money for a product that is not "made in Germany" and which in 2021 will be powered by pneumatics (must have compressed air on site) instead with electromagnetic or servo motors! Then I surveyed my customers and they mostly told me that they are not overly interested in unbranded bags and for now I have given up on that idea! So I'm waiting for Jack to introduce a compound drive cylindrical machine to buy it, to have it just in case. p.s. Looking at Minerva and the Dutch Global website, I saw that the machines are made exactly the same design and look like Durkopp Adler, only under the name Minerva and Global and I would say they use a slightly different base color for the machine body, while everything else is the same ... I don't know where those machines are sold, but the M-type is definitely not a real Durkopp Adler! Quote
Members ClaudioBravo Posted January 28, 2022 Author Members Report Posted January 28, 2022 After a lot of trouble matching the thread size of the leather jacket, I would like to clone it, this is my best bet. First my setup: Lockstich Juki DDL9000B-SS, Top thread polyester Generic 20/3 (#138) Tex 15 Bobin thread AMAN Serafil 30/3 (#92) Tex 90 Needle 18/110 with R point style, without cutting effect. I wasn't able to find needle for my DP x 5 system with cutting point right now! Lamb Nappa leather, brown is a really thin one and black is a little bit thicker. Quote
Members ClaudioBravo Posted January 28, 2022 Author Members Report Posted January 28, 2022 Samples, top and bottom. Comparing my sample with 20/3 top thread to my favourite leather jacket, made by Milestone Jacket: Quote
Members ClaudioBravo Posted January 28, 2022 Author Members Report Posted January 28, 2022 Finally, a sample of a bit thicker leather. Quote
Members ClaudioBravo Posted January 28, 2022 Author Members Report Posted January 28, 2022 I would like to hear from you... what are you think?? I'm messing a lot to dial in a proper top and a bottom, bobbin tension! After a lot of trial and error, those are my best bet. First, I'm not sure if I had proper cutting needle point, maybe my stitch would be "deeper"... also, I can't have enough bobbin tension with my light and medium Lockstitch Juki DDLS 9000B-SS bobbin. So I guess I will definitely have to buy a new machine just for leather sewing?? Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted January 29, 2022 Moderator Report Posted January 29, 2022 Your needle is much too small for the thread you are using! For v138 thread on top and v92 in the bobbin, you should use a #22 needle. It should be a leather point, preferably an S or LR point. If you must have the tightest holes, try a #21 needle. Here is a needle and thread chart that may help you choose the best combinations. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
RockyAussie Posted January 29, 2022 Report Posted January 29, 2022 5 hours ago, ClaudioBravo said: Finally, a sample of a bit thicker leather. This shows to me that the top tension needs to be tighter. You can see the knots on the bobbin side and it looks loose. I would also consider changing the Serafil thread as I have found it to be a very slippery thread and sometimes hard to get a even tension happening. Quote Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.