What sewing machine to buy exclusively for soft and thin Lamb nappa leather jackets sewing?

[ClaudioBravo]

Last year, I wanted to complement our line of evening dresses with women's bags-purses.

After a dozen You Tube videos from Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Chanel and Dior, it was clear to me that everyone uses cylindrical machines with compound drive for the bags and there was no dilemma what to buy.

I chose Durkopp Adler 669. One local dealer asked me for 3100€ + VAT and the other for 3300€ + VAT, but with a binder variant.
And then I discovered that for that money I only get the ECO variant, so pure mechanics.
For "electronics", in fact a pneumatic machine, they asked me twice, almost 6600 € + VAT

When I went to both companies and looked at a dozen new Durkopp Adler machines, I saw that they were all made in the Czech Republic. And honestly, I didn't like giving so much money for a product that is not "made in Germany" and which in 2021 will be powered by pneumatics (must have compressed air on site) instead with electromagnetic or servo motors!

Then I surveyed my customers and they mostly told me that they are not overly interested in unbranded bags and for now I have given up on that idea!

So I'm waiting for Jack to introduce a compound drive cylindrical machine to buy it, to have it just in case.

p.s.
Looking at Minerva and the Dutch Global website, I saw that the machines are made exactly the same design and look like Durkopp Adler, only under the name Minerva and Global and I would say they use a slightly different base color for the machine body, while everything else is the same ... I don't know where those machines are sold, but the M-type is definitely not a real Durkopp Adler!

[ClaudioBravo]

After a lot of trouble matching the thread size of the leather jacket, I would like to clone it, this is my best bet.

First my setup:

Lockstich Juki DDL9000B-SS,

Top thread polyester Generic 20/3  (#138) Tex 15
Bobin thread AMAN Serafil 30/3 (#92) Tex 90
Needle 18/110 with R point style, without cutting effect. I wasn't able  to find needle for my DP x 5 system with cutting point right now!

Lamb Nappa leather, brown is a really thin one and black is a little bit thicker.

[ClaudioBravo]

Samples, top and bottom.

Comparing my sample with 20/3 top thread to my favourite leather jacket, made by Milestone Jacket:

[ClaudioBravo]

Finally, a sample of a bit thicker leather.

[ClaudioBravo]

I would like to hear from you... what are you think??
I'm messing a lot to dial in a proper top and a bottom, bobbin tension! After a lot of trial and error, those are my best bet.

First, I'm not sure if I had proper cutting needle point, maybe my stitch would be "deeper"... also, I can't have enough bobbin tension with my light and medium Lockstitch Juki DDLS 9000B-SS bobbin.

So I guess I will definitely have to buy a new machine just for leather sewing??
 

[Wizcrafts]

Your needle is much too small for the thread you are using! For v138 thread on top and v92 in the bobbin, you should use a #22 needle. It should be a leather point, preferably an S or LR point. If you must have the tightest holes, try a #21 needle. Here is a needle and thread chart that may help you choose the best combinations.

[RockyAussie]

5 hours ago, ClaudioBravo said:

Finally, a sample of a bit thicker leather.

This shows to me that the top tension needs to be tighter. You can see the knots on the bobbin side and it looks loose. I would also consider changing the Serafil thread as I have found it to be a very slippery thread and sometimes hard to get a even tension happening.