Cecil Posted October 14, 2007 Report Posted October 14, 2007 (edited) I have been using Tandy belt blanks to make belts with. I havn't been able to get a smooth finish on the back side of the belt. I asked the local Tandy store manager and he said to use Fiebing's edge dye and finish. This help but it still doesnt give a polished finish. I have seen some of the other members work, for example Steveb's. And they get a beutiful finish on the back of the belt. How is this done? Edited October 14, 2007 by Cecil Quote
Members robert Posted October 14, 2007 Members Report Posted October 14, 2007 I have never been totally satisfied with anything to completely slick the flesh side, but the best i figured out was to use tan kote. I will be interested to see what others have to say... i wonder if sanding it first would work, to remove the heaviest "knap"... anybody ever tried that? Quote
Members CitizenKate Posted October 14, 2007 Members Report Posted October 14, 2007 Here's something you can try that works pretty well for me... I have a slicker that I made by wrapping and cementing a piece of veg-tan leather around a piece of 1/2" thick fiberboard. I spray the back (flesh side) of the leather with a topcoat finish, then while it's still wet, I slick it with the edge of my slicker, then let the finish dry. I repeat this this one or two times, and the backs are nice and smooth and fairly well sealed. Kate Quote
Ambassador pete Posted October 14, 2007 Ambassador Report Posted October 14, 2007 Here's what I did on my last belt. I cut the blank from 4/5 oz along the back. Than I cut a piece from the belly a bit wider and simply MASTER cement glued the two together after all finishing. I trimmed with a head knife and then edger. The edge came out great as the burnishing covered any glue seam. pea-aire' Quote
Contributing Member Jordan Posted October 14, 2007 Contributing Member Report Posted October 14, 2007 (edited) if memory serves steveb's web site mentioned he adds a lining to all his belts, I could be wrong. I use a rounded over peice of hardwood to burnish the backside. Edited October 14, 2007 by Jordan Quote
Members Dan Hammons Posted October 14, 2007 Members Report Posted October 14, 2007 Hey Cecil, I have had the best results by applying Gum Tragacanth to the flesh side and rubbing the belt with a deer antler while the Gum Tragacanth dries. It leaves the back smooth slick and without any fibers showing. Hope this helps Dan Quote
Cecil Posted October 15, 2007 Author Report Posted October 15, 2007 (edited) Thanks for the sugestions. I will try these and see which one works the best. Edited October 15, 2007 by Cecil Quote
steveb Posted October 16, 2007 Report Posted October 16, 2007 Cecil - I line my belts - all my belts and most everything I make, beause in my eye, that is what seperates a professionally made good (read: expensive) from a craft/hobby piece - its in the details...in the parts that no none but the owner sees. I ususally use pig for belt linings - its cheap, easy to work with and in general and works well in that app. My earliest work was unlined and I used atom wax and a burnisher to knock the flesh side back down - but it doenst have the same "hand"...lining is the way to go - a PITA, but worth it. steveb Quote
Cecil Posted October 17, 2007 Author Report Posted October 17, 2007 I have never added a leather lining to a belt. Is there a good reference that explains how to do this or can you all give me some guidance. Quote
Members robert Posted October 17, 2007 Members Report Posted October 17, 2007 no doubt there are many ways to go about it, but i cut my liners out of 3-4 oz or 2-3 ounce veg tan leather. i cut it about 1/4 inch wider than the belt, and generally finish it with neats foot oil and then tan kote. After the belt is tooled and finished, I coat both the liner and the belt back with contact cement and glue it down starting at one end (i use waxed paper to keep the part i am not working on yet separated) and working my way down. i use a small hammer to tap it together to make sure it "stays stuck." Then i sew it as i normally would, then use a sharp knife or utility knife to trim the liner to the correct width. then sand the edges (by hand or with a dremel on slow) to get the edges perfectly even. Then edge bevel and slick as you normally would. by the way...if you are like me and occasionally get edge dressing on the liner, I have learned that a dab of tan kote on a rag will take it off if it hasnt dried completely. Quote
Members Mike Phelps Posted October 17, 2007 Members Report Posted October 17, 2007 All the straps I've ordered from Zack White have had a lot smoother flesh side than any I've ever gotten from Tandy LF. Notice I said a LOT smoohter not a little. I'd imagine their belt blanks would be the same. www.zackwhite.com Sure makes finishing the backs a lot easier. The grain side has always been blemish free and never saw a pasted spot yet. Appear to be cut from premium double bends or butts. Quote
steveb Posted October 17, 2007 Report Posted October 17, 2007 never bought a belt blank - cant speak to that - i like cutting mine from a side with a strapcutter and cutting my own tapers anyway basically Cecil, I glue a strip of mission grain pigskin to the back of a belt - i roughen the belt surface if it is smooth with a roughner - i use weldwood contact cement from the hardware store to glue the pig onto the back of the belt - i have a special technique of attaching the lining to the strap so it gives the belt a natural curved memory- and when it has been edged, slicked and such, i stitch it - thats my last step. No need to complicate matters, pretty simple. I probably do it all wrong - but that is what happens when you are self taught - lol steveb Quote
cjbleather Posted October 18, 2007 Report Posted October 18, 2007 steveb, Could you expand on the subject of putting a natural curve in yoiur belt when appling the liner. The only way that I can figure on doing this is to lay the front piece down and start applying the liner in increments while simultaneously start curving the belt slightly. Is there an easier way to do this. I have used this method for all folded objects. But, they would be much smaller and curved only at the fold - not the emtire length. Would appreciate your thoughts. carlb Quote
Cecil Posted October 18, 2007 Author Report Posted October 18, 2007 Thanks for the information. Quote
steveb Posted October 18, 2007 Report Posted October 18, 2007 LOL - i knew that someone would call me on this...simple to understand if you were to watch me, a real PITA to try and explain...but for you cjb, i will try..... I glue both sides - belt and lining - and basically it goes like this: working from the tip (not buckle end) of the belt - i literally, inch by inch curve the billet over my hand and at the same time press/rub the already glued lining to the billet (this is tricky because the glued lining wants to jump to the belt in the worst way...lol) - so I am forcing some curved tension into the shape of the belt - the lining is ever so much smaller than the belt at the end- causing it to pull inward into a curve.....if you lay a belt flat and glue the lining, it will pucker when you put it around your waist make sense? steveb Quote
cjbleather Posted October 18, 2007 Report Posted October 18, 2007 steveb, Yes it does and thanks. carlb Quote
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