Members austinious Posted January 17, 2022 Members Report Posted January 17, 2022 So I need to sew close to hardware as shown in the picture and the best I can come up with is to have my needle face the hardware do forward stitch two backward stitches flip it around and then go to the next piece of hardware turn it 90° go across back stitch twice cut the thread and repeat on the other side. In other words two L shapes. I'm hoping someone else has run into this and has a much more elegant solution, any help is much appreciated. Quote
toxo Posted January 17, 2022 Report Posted January 17, 2022 40 minutes ago, austinious said: So I need to sew close to hardware as shown in the picture and the best I can come up with is to have my needle face the hardware do forward stitch two backward stitches flip it around and then go to the next piece of hardware turn it 90° go across back stitch twice cut the thread and repeat on the other side. In other words two L shapes. I'm hoping someone else has run into this and has a much more elegant solution, any help is much appreciated. One idea is to cut two slots where the "D" rings are. Run the strap under, up through the slot, through the "D" ring , back through the slot and on to the next "D"ring. The strap isn't seen and maybe uses less leather. Stitching across a strap will weaken it. Maybe a nice rivet either side of the rings? A lot depends on how strong it needs to be. Quote
Members austinious Posted January 17, 2022 Author Members Report Posted January 17, 2022 I add two rivets about 1/2 inch from the rings in the stitched rectangle. Very strong, one ring and strap will support 200lbs. hanging overnight. I have made many dog collars like this and not even my oldest(7+ years) shows any signs of failing. Quote
toxo Posted January 18, 2022 Report Posted January 18, 2022 19 minutes ago, austinious said: I add two rivets about 1/2 inch from the rings in the stitched rectangle. Very strong, one ring and strap will support 200lbs. hanging overnight. I have made many dog collars like this and not even my oldest(7+ years) shows any signs of failing. You asked, I answered. I don't see any rivets. Quote
Members austinious Posted January 18, 2022 Author Members Report Posted January 18, 2022 I posted under sewing machines...I am asking about sewing machine techniques. In a finished product, this was a practice piece, I will add rivets. Thanks for your opinion. Quote
Members TomE Posted January 18, 2022 Members Report Posted January 18, 2022 (edited) I had the same problem when I began sewing halters. I am wet forming 2-3 layers of 10-12 oz leather around the hardware and there's a steep change in thickness that the presser foot has trouble climbing. @rdl123 gave me a tip that I've used on every halter since. Begin sewing 4 holes away from the hardware and leave long tails on the threads. Back stitch by hand up to the hardware. In your case, you can sew the beginning and the end of the stitch line by hand. Will make the job look neat and keep the hardware snug so there's less wear on the leather. Also, I don't think it's necessary to stitch across the width of the strap. According to Stohlman, the stitches should run lengthwise along the strap for the strongest construction. Edited January 18, 2022 by TomE more info Quote
Members austinious Posted January 18, 2022 Author Members Report Posted January 18, 2022 15 minutes ago, TomE said: Begin sewing 4 holes away from the hardware and leave long tails on the threads. Back stitch by hand up to the hardware. I tried that early on, but only once. Great suggestion, I think I could do sides and one end, then finish by hand. I'll try a test tomorrow. Thanks Quote
Members Constabulary Posted January 18, 2022 Members Report Posted January 18, 2022 (edited) You did not say what machine you are using. If it is some sort of singer 111 machine then this foot set may help to sew closer to the hardware https://www.ebay.de/itm/224401640036 if it is a 441 type machine an inline foot set may help: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/76502-inline-cowboy-presser-feet-on-cowboy-cb4500/ Edited January 18, 2022 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members austinious Posted January 18, 2022 Author Members Report Posted January 18, 2022 My bad, I used the cowboy tag, should have listed it. I have the inline presser, when you make the turn after the short side stich, the presser foot will hit the ring and push everything forward so you get a super long stich. Front to back that foot is longer than the stock foot. Quote
Members Constabulary Posted January 18, 2022 Members Report Posted January 18, 2022 (edited) I have no 441 type machine but I know there are harness feet for them. Maybe you can shorten the toes a bit if needed. https://www.ebay.com/sch/14339/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=441+foot Maybe the left toe foot does the trick Edited January 18, 2022 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
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