Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
The chemical department. Coloring and accenting your work, protecting it from the elements and ravages of time, care and maintainance of leather, and preservation and restoration of old leather.
2,966 topics in this forum
-
- 1 reply
- 1.6k views
I bought some Uniters paint and primer and followed a step by step process I saw online with heat and sanding. On two test pieces, I have results I'm happy with. It took 4-5 coats, sanding, and heat to get there, but it looks professional. My previous project was edge painted with bad results. I just smeared it on and it looks far from professional Now that I can do this level of work, I'm much more excited about working with chrome tanned leather going forward. These are my first two attempts. One with two pieces and the other single. I don't feel like I have to hide the edges if I can do this good of job.
.thumb.jpg.6e903dd66163ad5672f00f144058c571.jpg)
Last reply by Northmount, -
-
-
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 1.4k views
Hello everyone, I’m new here from South Korea, and I’m facing a big problem with redyeing my custom-made dress shoes. I hope someone can help me figure it out. I bought these dark brown (actually closer to medium brown) shoes two years ago, along with other pairs in black and light brown. Compared to the others, this pair of dark brown shoes seems to have some sort of transparent coating or sealant, like Resolene or Saddle-Lac. Still, I was able to polish them Unfortunately, last year the right toe got scratched. I used sandpaper to smooth out the surface, thinking I could restore it by applying Saphir Shoe Cream (Crème Surfine, Color 05: Dark Brown)…
Last reply by kgg, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 837 views
Hi, I have owned a couple pairs of cowboy boots for about a year and have been conditioning them with only neatsfoot oil. The boots I got have usually been offered to someone a few years ago, this person then wore them a couple times and let them sit in a shoebox for years. So technically they're almost unworn, but rather dry (not to the point of getting cracks however) (if you wonder why I choose that kind of boots its because I get them for about 30 bucks whereas Id have to pay hundreds otherwise wich I cant afford) winter is coming, and I dont want my boots to get dry because of wet-dry cycles, or to rot... they dont seem to ever get enough oil…
Last reply by Northmount, -
- 1 follower
- 8 replies
- 617 views
I'm starting a resto-mod on a vintage leather bag. I've got a test piece to the color and finish I'm looking for. At least until I remembered that I wanted to add Mink Oil to keep the wet out as much as possible. I know it will likely turn the end result darker, and I'm fine with that. At what stage do I add a couple thin layers of mink oil? To get to where I am now, I've deglazed, foam scrubbed, 3-4 light coats of Angelus Ox Blood, a couple light coats of Red shoe polish. The leather is fairly solid veg-tan.
Last reply by INSMNYK, -
- 2 followers
- 14 replies
- 60.9k views
Can Acetone be used in place of deglazer? I think someone told me that once.
Last reply by RowlandO81, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 1.7k views
When we dip leather into a pot of Fiebings dye (light Brown or Saddle Tan ) for 3 to 4 seconds and hang to dry it comes out very dark brown or almost black. Does anyone have an idea of the problem?
Last reply by ABC3, -
- 1 reply
- 613 views
Anyone can suggest me best leather conditioners for me. Thanks in advance!
Last reply by Northmount, -
- 3 followers
- 14 replies
- 1.8k views
Not sure which of the forums I'm on will have the most airbrush guru's, but lets give it a shot! I inherited a few Airbrush's with my Dad's old leather tools, and have picked up a couple myself over the years. He had them from back in his Hollywood days doing props and special effects. He often was given antique leather goods that he had to make 3 to 10 copies of so they didn't destroy the original, and an airbrush was one of the tools he would use to detail stuff with paints and dyes to make it look authentic (I find that whole industry fascinating, as those craftsmen will regularly make convincing works of art that are often destroyed during or post filming). We've…
Last reply by dikman, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 745 views
A friend of mine threw up on my brown leather couch and it seems permanently stained. I used baking soda to get the smell out and tried the normal leather cleaning products to no avail. I was thinking of vinegaroon'ing the whole couch to see if I could just make it black. What are your thoughts? I saw on here that I should try to avoid adding oxygen to the vinegaroon so perhaps I should brush it on vs using a spray bottle? Does the neutralizing with baking soda eliminate the vinegar smell? Should I add the baking soda it to the vinegaroon solution it's self or make a rinse afterwards? Thanks for your time. I know I have a lot of questions, Kristina
Last reply by Leather Repair Center, -
- 7 followers
- 54 replies
- 46.2k views
My all in one guide to Vinegaroon Hey everyone. I’ve been lurking around these forums for a while now and haven’t posted much, so I thought I’d finally make a contribution. I’m going to University for a Chemistry degree, and surprisingly some of the things I’ve been learning in my labs are actually applicable to my leatherwork! I thought I'd write up some of my observations and experiments with vinegarroon, to try and help shed some light on what is actually going on in the reaction. Please, read through and share any knowledge you have working with this stuff! (I know this is a lot. I was bored just typing it. You can skip to the bottom if you don't hav…
Last reply by ThisIsMyFirstRodeo,
