Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
The chemical department. Coloring and accenting your work, protecting it from the elements and ravages of time, care and maintainance of leather, and preservation and restoration of old leather.
2,942 topics in this forum
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I'm looking to buy an airbrush for single color sprays onto leather. The one airbrush that seems to be the best fit for my work (cuffs, belts, and other small items) is the Thayer & Chandler T89K Omni 4000 http://goo.gl/MCGpT. With this I plan on using fiebings leather dye http://goo.gl/K59Ut. If someone can confirm this as the correct choice or point me in the right direction that would be great. Cheers, Benji.
Last reply by AEBL, -
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Has anyone compared denatured alcohol and isopropyl alcohol for thinning dyes and deglazing/surface prep? I am almost out of isopropyl alcohol and before I get more, am I missing out by not using denatured alcohol? Is it worth switching to something that has been intentionally made toxic and a little more inconvenient to get (for my situation) over isopropyl alcohol?
Last reply by MyuFoxy, -
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I have always used Feibings dye reducer with my dyes . . . But if I had to do a small batch . . . trying for a custom color . . . I don't want to open a new bottle. What would be a good substitute for diluting only Feibings dyes? I don't use anything else. Thanks for any help you can send my way. May God bless, Dwight
Last reply by AEBL, -
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Is it critical to use a "deglazer" on leather before I begin dying/finishing if I've handled it a lot with my bare hands? If I don't, will it cause inconsistencies in the final appearance or something?
Last reply by Robski, -
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I’m working on my first project, which is a simple bookmark. I’m using 4/6 veg tan leather. The issue is with the dyeing. The first image (lighter color) was done using a wool dauber. It’s uneven because I had to go over some areas that didn’t get into the stamping. The darker one was an attempt at submersing in the dye and it looks horrible and worse, it’s really stiff. Do you have any suggestions, I’m really disappointed.
Last reply by Cumberland Highpower, -
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Hi there, I'm trying to find a very consistent method of keeping the edges of my dyed projects natural without the top dye showing through on the edge. I have done it properly (See the leather project at the bottom of the pic) but to do this I need very specific edge beveler that becomes dull quick and is so tricky to sharpen that I cannot use it. I'm wondering if theres any tips to make this process less of a hassle and much more consistent with any edge beveler. Many thanks!
Last reply by Northmount, -
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Do you have any tips for getting acceptable results with Fiebing's Pro Oil Dye in Royal Blue? Everything I do ends up so dark. My last attempt was a 50/50 dilution and not only was it still dark, it didn't penetrate well.
Last reply by Scoutmom103, -
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I got a question to you guys and gals out there that use an airbrush. What type filter do yous all use? I’m using mostly Fiebing Pro dye and Angelus Alcohol dye. I read that for solvent based dyes one should wear at least an A1, but there is acetone in some of them so I thought I best ask here. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Last reply by Yukonrookie, -
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In my learning about leather, I have come across people talking about neatsfoot oil as a way of softening leather. Although I was a bit confused when I saw a thread in which someone wrote he uses neatsfoot which stops the leather from getting too soft. Anyway - when tooling and dying veg tan leather, it seems to go quite tough and rigid. My question is: can I use neatsfoot oil when working with dyed veg tan leather, or is it purely to use on plain veg tan leather? At what stage in the process of casing, tooling, dying, and finishing the leather item can I apply neatsfoot? Am I right in thinking that mink oil is a waterproofing finish to apply when everything else is done…
Last reply by Kelly144, -
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I have just dyed a purse with All in One. Before dyeing I conditioned it with Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax, but now I think I didn't condition enough. Can I re-condition after it dries? Do I repeat the Leather Balm? I also have their Saddle Oil with silicone and lanolin, and some liquid mink oil. Advice would be very appreciated.
Last reply by kgolden,