Leather Sewing Machines
Lighter weight leathers can be sewn on home machines, but the tough stuff requires commercial or industrial sewing machines. They can be tricky to set up and operate, but can't be beat for production work.
11,434 topics in this forum
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- 3 followers
- 8 replies
- 245 views
Hello everyone, I bought this machine to salvage and bring it back to sew again. I have multiple industrial sewing machines that are working well for me. I never attempted to fix a machine before. The maximum I have done was change motors from clutch to servo. So I am very excited about learning how to do it and get to expand my knowledge with your help guys. I stumbled upon this one on marketplace and I went to check it out. It was used at some point to sew in a mattress factory. As far as the person that sold it to me, he’s not sure what happened to it before it stopped working. It doesn’t have any feet or anything apart from the side plate. Unfortunately, it’s …
Last reply by darkhornsleather, -
- 2 followers
- 23 replies
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Hello New Guy w another newbie issue. I’ve only had this machine a few weeks. Went ahead and set the timing, added a servo motor and it’s been great. Adjusted the stitch length a few times and that’s where trouble began. First off this machine doesn’t have a hole in front to show the numbers. Looking down through the top i noticed that the length indicated didn’t line up w a measured stitch. Really not a big deal. So at that time the machine was working just fine Last night w 2 short stitches to go in a project the stitch length went from approx 6 stitches to 32. I stopped made the adjustment back to 6 and then it did it again. The concentric doesn’t seem…
Last reply by cadet4x4, -
- 3 followers
- 26 replies
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I have a Singer 211U166A that I got for free, including table, servo motor, bobbins, and needles. I'm completely new to sewing, and the machine was not working when I got it. Fortunately, a local repair guy got it going, and I was able to sew several things with it--not leather, but some very thick, heavy, multiple layers of cloth (mostly, sailing-related). Yesterday, the bobbin got jammed, and my foot slipped, no doubt putting a lot of pressure on the drive, which resulted in a clunking noise, and a screw that connects to the reverse lever even fell off. I was able to replace the screw, but now the walking foot seems to not be walking. Specifically, the middle part …
Last reply by friquant, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 661 views
Hello I am new to sewing. I’m not technically using leather yet but I sew dog collars that are very thick made of webbing, fabric, and minky and eventually I would like to use leather. But I’m looking for an affordable used machine but have no clue what to look for on Facebook marketplace does anyone have recommendations for ones most often found used online?
Last reply by Dwight, -
- 3 followers
- 3 replies
- 731 views
Was planning to keep it intact, and just tape the thread to the top plate for measurement. But when I took it apart to disable the Mode button (so it will always stay set to grams), it looked so easy to repurpose... kitchen-scale.mp4 Here's a link to the original 500g kitchen scale I bought. And a screenshot: Drilled two holes in the upper right and reused the original screws to mount the load cell there. Added hot glue to keep the wires from being damaged from being tossed around Taped over the digits to the right of the decimal place so they don't distract. Some other posts regarding measuring bobbin tensio…
Last reply by friquant, -
Pfaff 345 issues 1 2
by Karbo- 3 followers
- 11 replies
- 1.7k views
Greetings, I’ve been trying to solve some issues for the past few days of thread entanglement and so far not so good. I’ve disassembled the bobin case up to the bobin case lever to make sure no thread was in between. Currently I’m using 134-35 #21 needles and #138 thread. In the second video, I removed the cover to show the needle to hook action. I’m aware that this video is probably not enough to solve the problem but I’m willing to follow guidance and post more as needed. Thank you for your time. IMG_9290.mov IMG_9291.mov
Last reply by friquant, -
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- 325 views
Hi everyone. I'm new to the landis 3. Just got one last week. I'm trying to stitch some harness traces that are about 5/8" thick. I want to move the presser foot up in height a bit. Does anyone here know how to do that? I have a manual and it makes no sense to me. I've gone over it so many time now my brain hurts. I simply can see anywhere on here for adjustment. Thanks for any help on this. Brian Merrick
Last reply by speedybri, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
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I'd like to sharpen the hook on my Singer 144W103 in order to reduce skipped stitches. With the needle guard removed, the hook is barely close enough to graze the needle. But it's not the tip of the hook that strikes the needle. About 2mm back from the hook tip---that's the part of the hook that actually strikes the needle. I don't know if that means the hook is simply dull, or if it has been improperly sharpened in the past. When sharpening scissors, for example, the going strategy is to only grind on one face of the blade. So what are the rules of thumb for sharpening a hook? File one side, or both? What angle to use? Here are photos of the hook
Last reply by TonyV, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 774 views
How to increase pressure of roller on a pfaff 491? the stitch length is inconsistent.. hoping more pressure will help the material move better while stitching, and keep the stitches even
Last reply by Constabulary, -
- 2 followers
- 2 replies
- 578 views
Hello. I picked up a landis three a few days ago. It's running good however it keeps lifting the leather. I've tried adjusting the feeder foot pressure. I'm sewing 3 layers of 12/13oz together. Making lead harness traces. So it's pretty heavy. Does anyone know what might be causing the lifting and how to correct it? Thank you for any and all help.
Last reply by speedybri,