Iwb Cross-Draw - Too Many "firsts"!

[particle]

Here's a holster I just shipped out this morning to a customer. I almost turned down the order, but eventually caved and took on the build after endless emails and begging... It's not perfect, but I think it's pretty close to what the customer was after. Feedback is definitely appreciated!

What do I mean by "too many firsts"? It was my first time to make a cross-draw holster (negative 25 degree cant at the request of the customer), first time using horse hide, and consequently my first time tooling horse hide,, first retention strap, first time doing this belt snap strap method, first time using rivets and a reinforcement piece and while not my first, I almost never make holsters for revolvers.... This particular holster is for a S&W revolver - the customer sent me dimensions and asked me to leave 1/2" of my Ruger's barrel exposed.

If I had it to do over again, the only thing I'd change is to mount the snap straps about 1/4" lower so there is more room under the grip. I was trying to get the revolver as low as possible for stability-sake, but didn't account for the thickness of the snap strap folds and simply placed them too high. In reality, the straps probably should be replaced with Kydex for a thinner profile. I'll leave that up to the customer to decide. Oh yeah, I also should have brought the tooling down a bit on the back so it didn't collide with the reinforcement piece of steel. It's hard to get much depth to the tooling in horse hide.

[c2369zulu]

Very nice looking!

[Viking]

I think it looks great! ...almost a shame that excellent tooling will be hidden IWB, but the customer should be very satisfied ...

[George B]

Great looking holster Particle. I know what you mean about too many firsts, but you pulled it off quite well.

[particle]

Thanks for the compliments everyone. I really appreciate it. I sent photos of the holster to my customer and he seemed happy with it! Wohoo!

[dickf]

I'd say you pulled it off the best possible way. Its a beauty for sure!

That's a nightmare holster - any way you cut it, that thing is THICK inside the pants. Add the cross draw + thumb break elements and you have a holster that seems like a good idea on paper, but will likely implode due to design contentions. I totally understand your reluctance to take the build - theres no way I'd do it (I know I wouldn't pull it off like you!).

[chiefjason]

IMO, the worst part of cross draw is trying to keep a decent area free on the grip. It's darn near impossible in some cases. The holster is beautiful though.

[evandailey]

Your work looks fantastic as always. I'm curious why you didn't sandwich the T-nuts between the layers though??

Edited February 12, 2013 by evandailey

[particle]

No real reason, aside from I haven't made very many IWB holsters and I never really think/remember to embed them between the layers. And probably a good thing too with this particular holster, because looking back at the photos, my needle would have struck the t-nut, and the holster would have been ruined since the leading wing was too narrow to assemble & sew with the t-nut embedded. I could obviously revise the pattern for future holsters having now seen that mistake in the pattern. But, I think this particular pattern is only a one-off - I'll probably never make one like this again.

Edited February 12, 2013 by particle

[Ran]

Nice work, Eric! Dang...all those 'firsts' would have had me building at least a couple prototypes before getting to the customer's holster. I hope you were well paid for all that work..

[particle]

I did a couple mock ups along the way of various pieces, including the holster that I built first out of cow hide to test the pattern - though I didn't make the snap straps in the mock up phase or I'd probably cought the problem with mounting them too high.. Fortunately I'd built a pancake for this revolver so I had a good starting point for the pattern, but it definitely took more time than it was really worth considering I have no interest in making another like this. But, it was still a good learning experience.

[Ran]

Eric...where do you get that little metal reinforcement piece for the thumb break? I've seen them made of dense plastic too, but I like the steel better.

[particle]

I ordered them from www.bluegunstore.com. He sells them in varying quantities. From the menu on the left, click "Maker Supplies". They're listed towards the bottom of the first results page.

[Josh Ashman]

It sure looks good to me Eric, nice job!

Best regards,

Josh

[dfwde]

You make some of the best looking holsters.

[Ran]

I ordered them from www.bluegunstore.com. He sells them in varying quantities. From the menu on the left, click "Maker Supplies". They're listed towards the bottom of the first results page.

Thanks Eric. Duh...I've ordered from them on numerous occasions and never noticed the other items for sale...sheesh!

[renegadelizard]

I love your tooling Eric...youve got that nailed bro...

Here's a holster I just shipped out this morning to a customer. I almost turned down the order, but eventually caved and took on the build after endless emails and begging... It's not perfect, but I think it's pretty close to what the customer was after. Feedback is definitely appreciated!

What do I mean by "too many firsts"? It was my first time to make a cross-draw holster (negative 25 degree cant at the request of the customer), first time using horse hide, and consequently my first time tooling horse hide,, first retention strap, first time doing this belt snap strap method, first time using rivets and a reinforcement piece and while not my first, I almost never make holsters for revolvers.... This particular holster is for a S&W revolver - the customer sent me dimensions and asked me to leave 1/2" of my Ruger's barrel exposed.

If I had it to do over again, the only thing I'd change is to mount the snap straps about 1/4" lower so there is more room under the grip. I was trying to get the revolver as low as possible for stability-sake, but didn't account for the thickness of the snap strap folds and simply placed them too high. In reality, the straps probably should be replaced with Kydex for a thinner profile. I'll leave that up to the customer to decide. Oh yeah, I also should have brought the tooling down a bit on the back so it didn't collide with the reinforcement piece of steel. It's hard to get much depth to the tooling in horse hide.