friquant

Show us your bobbin orientation. The thread will come out of the slit if you load the bobbin backwards.

This gooseneck may be a good replacement: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014LR1BEQ You can put whatever bulb you want in it. I've been using these, but are NOT bright enough: https://www.amazon.com/Machine-Magnetic-Flexible-Silicone-Workbench/dp/B0FJ7KW154

Plug this one into the wall, and see how fast the pulley moves at its slowest setting. You can put a piece of tape on the pulley so you can count revolutions as you time it with a stopwatch. That will inform the slowness this one is capable of. By the way, how fast is your old motor?

Cardboard is awesome. Here are some more exercises. Have fun! Draw an arbitrary shape on the cardboard and pretend it's your lawn. Drive within it in a "lawnmower" pattern, keeping your spacing even from the previous layer. Cut two rectangles of cardboard, and stitch them together about 1/2 inch from the edge Cut two rectangles of cardboard. Then change the edge on one piece so it's gently convex. Stitch the straight piece and the convex piece together about 1/2 inch from the edge. (This will make a 3-D shape) Same as #3 but with two convex pieces Same as #3 but with one convex, one concave Make a simple knife sheath from a single folded piece of cardboard. Make the curves as tidy as you can Do a straight run of stitches. Then go in reverse following the same line.

You may want to figure out where you are expected to oil that shaft 😉

I don't know why they are typically wider on the left. Somewhere I read that "the softer the material, the bigger you want your foot to be". Grinding down would make your footprint smaller. As long as you are not concerned about sinking too far I don't see a problem. I actually do a fair amount of my stitching with a zipper foot, even when I'm not sewing zippers. (A zipper foot would be like grinding one entire side off)

Don't buy these. You will want a triple feed machine. (May take some internet browsing to learn to identify triple feed) The singer in the photo appears to be a bottom-feed lockstitch machine. (Bottom-feed won't feed sticky materials) The Lewis is not a lockstitch machine at all. Maybe a blind hemmer?

Genius!

Head unit only?

Is the handwheel easy to turn? Have you oiled the machine? (Do add some oil if not) Does the needle bar move front to back if you push it with your hands? You will need to find the clamp that Wyowally references and verify that it is indeed moving the "needle bar rock frame rock shaft" as singer calls it. We are looking for the clamp at the far right end of that shaft. If the clamp is loose, tighten it. Make sure the clamp and the rock shaft both move together when you turn the handwheel. If neither the shaft nor the clamp move when you turn the handwheel, flip the machine on its back and inspect the parts underneath that drive that clamp. If the shaft does move but still no movement at the needle bar, take the left end cover off the machine and find the crank arm at the left end of that shaft. Here's a photo of my singer 144W103 with the needle bar rock frame removed, and the yellow arrow points to the crank arm you want to check for movement.

Can you post an amazon link?

You can stand behind the machine and press down on the lever with your hand to check how smooth it moves without the pedal being in the way. You may need to grease the part that slides up and down near the presser foot. Cool! The bobbins on my jianglong 341 are 20mm.

Looks very sturdy. What is the diameter of the bobbins? Your chain is rubbing on the table. If willing, you can drill a hole closer to the machine that will be a straighter shot to the pedal. Also, if the chain still rubs, replace it with a cable, and make a slide for the cable out of some vinyl and grease the vinyl. Also at the foot pedal end, the chain is installed in the default (but unfortunate) position of out at the tip of the pedal. You probably don't need that much lift. Mine I drilled a new hole a couple inches down from the tip and it gives me enough travel will less force. Another help is to reduce your presser foot pressure. For very low pressure, I remove the presser foot spring, but on very thin fabrics I need to keep the spring installed.

Here's the image from the engineer's manual. I don't bother with measuring this adjustment---I just make sure the latch opens far enough to allow thick thread pass through, and make sure the latch doesn't bind. By the way, it's the needle thread that goes through the latch, and the latch should open to allow the needle thread to go through as soon as the needle thread is ready. (Otherwise there will be some popping sounds as the thread gets forced through a closed latch)

This lever is what typically raises the presser feet and leaves them raised

Can you post a picture of the inner hook guide? I'm not familiar with this term.

See this post: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/125148-replacement-pulley-for-tapered-shaft/#findComment-770958

I posted about this here:

I've been working on a couple of Baby Lock EA-605 overlocker machines. Here is the service manual for the Baby Lock EA-605 and Baby Lock EF-205. (Also known as the "instruction booklet for maintenance") babylock-ef205__ea605-service-manual.pdf And here is a video I made of how the mechanisms and timing interact in slow motion:

@Cwagz396 Start your own topic, post close-up photos of the hook. Also post photos of the entire top thread path from spool to needle eye. We will help you figure it out

I posted a 4-month review here: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/131750-review-of-jianglong-341-after-4-months/#findComment-784187

If you cannot get the gear to move, you could loosen the shaft again, and move it over the right number of teeth to bring your timing back to what you had before.

There are three set screws to loosen. How many did you loosen? Once all three are loosened, if still not moving you can add a few drops of diesel and let it sit to dissolve some of the corrosion, if that's the issue. You can also screw one of the set screws partway out, then place an end wrench (or spanner wrench) around the gear, using the protruding part of the set screw for the wrench to grab onto. (Go gently though)

You can measure the width of the needle just above the scarf. That will tell you the metric needle size. (1.4mm, for example is 140Nm)