JeffGC

Here's my latest J-Frame pocket holster with a pocket for a Kershaw Chive.

Here's my latest version of a front pocket holster for the Ruger LCP. The design includes a slot for the clip of a pocket knife and a thumb tab on the back. Jeff

I just finished a pancake holster for a LEO friend. It's made with 8 oz. Wickett & Craig plated leather and dip dyed in Fiebing's USMC Black.

Starting to make holsters is a challenge. As you know, you'll receive a lot of assistance on this excellent forum. You can also learn a lot about making holsters from the Al Stohlman book, "How to Make Holsters." I used this book when I made my first holster in 1969. It's available from many leather suppliers and also from Amazon. Good luck. Jeff

I ordered directly from W&C. They do not have a minimum order. I ordered one side. Switching to a premium leather supplier was a major change for me. The W&C was very smooth and consistent. Also, they split the side to my request of 8 oz. They only thing a noticed was how firm the leather was which I think is a result of the plating process. Jeff

Dave - I make holsters. When W&C took my order, they mentioned that most of the holster makers had their leather plated. It's my understanding that the leather is run between two rollers, compressing it. Jeff

Aside from damage, when should I replace the needle? I'm using chisel point needles. Jeff

I am just about finishing up my first side from Wickett & Craig. It was 8 oz. and plated, following their recommendation. Do most of you have your leather plated? Why or why not? I've heard the term "jacked." What does that mean? Jeff

I've been using inexpensive edgers for years and would like to upgrade to a quality tool. I've heard that Ron's edgers are outstanding. I have purchased a number of tools from Bob Douglas and they are great. I've heard good things about Barry King, but especially his stamps. He also offers edgers. Advice will be appreciated. A follow-up question: What size? I make, almost exclusively, holsters using two layers of 8 oz. leather. Jeff

Lobo - Is this your idea of retirement? That's great that your business is growing. I looked at your website, which looks great. How are you dyeing the medium brown? Jeff

My Tippmann Boss came with both round and chisel needles. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each style? Jeff

I think it's a matter of one's goals. If your goal is a product that's commercially acceptable, as long as the customer will pay for it, it's okay. If you goal is to make a product that is as close to perfect as possible, the little things count. Making a 95% product isn't that difficult. A 98%-plus is a challenge. It's the finer points of holster construction (edge finishing, stitch lines, boning, etc.) that set certain craftsmen apart from others. Jeff

Bob Douglas, as usual, was a wealth of information. I purchased a "Newark" Osborne knife, Bob's large stropping board, jeweler's rouge and gray compound. With shipping, $205.

The first thing I did was read that older thread. I checked the takeup arm and there was absolutely no movement when the handle was held firmly back. I always attempt to wind a bobbin perfectly. It only lasts a layer or two but I attempt to keep the thread even, without any bumps. The occasional tight bobbin thread due to increased tension due to winding makes sense.

Both are Nylon 277. The white just acts weird. Along one run of a couple of inches, all except one stitch will look okay. That one will have the needle thread visible on the bottom. One one holster I had about eight inches of stitches. The first half was fine. One the second half, the needle thread didn't pull the bobbin thread into the leather. Jeff

I've been doing rather well sewing with my Boss...until today. Problems started when I changed thread. I had been using one of the large purchased spools from Tippmann and switched back to the white thread that came with the machine. I immediately noticed that the standard tension adjustments on the needle thread (2 rev on the secondary and 1 1/2 rev on the primary) resulted in quite a bit more tension. Finally, I thought I had my thread tensions balanced. Now, I'm getting inconsistent tension. For a few inches, everything seems fine. Then, the bobbin thread isn't being pulled in to the leather. I'm being very careful moving the handle completely up and down. I'm stumped. Jeff

Bobby & Ben - I just spoke with Lee Douglas. She told me that they have older Osborne knives that Bob reconditions and sharpens. I'll try and get in contact with Bob later today. Thanks again. Jeff

Bobby - Thanks for the suggestion. Last year I bought a saddle stitching awl from Bob Douglas. The handle is a piece of work and the blade is incredible. It's a perfect example of getting what you pay for. Jeff

After using X-Acto knifes for years, I've decided to purchase a head knife. Osborne offers a #70 and a #71. Tandy has a few. I've also heard of other older manufacturers. Recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Jeff

I have a stamp from Laser Gift Creations that has worked well. Her stamps are very attractively priced and the turnaround is fast. They appear to be made of Delrin or some similar material. As I recall, the stamp cost less than $50. This week, I ordered a steel stamp from Infinity costing about $150. I am assuming the steel stamp will be more damage resistant and sharper.

Try Infinity Stamps at http://www.infinitystamps.com/index.html Jeff

I've had my Boss for a few weeks and I'm pleased with the appearance of my stitching, except with my locking of the stitches. I started with 277 thread and a 200 round needle, changing to a chisel needle. I typically start with two or three stitches and then turn the piece 180 degrees and start stitching. After I get started, my thread tensions seem to be fine. When I'm sewing in the lock area, the needle thread is not pulling the bobbin thread into the leather. As soon as I've moved out of the double stitch area, everything is fine. I adjust my bobbin tension so that I have slight resistance when pulling the thread through the needle plate. I set my needle tension with 1 1/2 turns on primary and 2 turns on secondary. I increased my primary but it doesn't seem to help. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Jeff

Yesterday, I received my first two clicker dies from Tippmann. I have a 12 ton floor press that I'm using for diecutting and holster forming. For diecutting, I purchased two 1/2" Blanchard ground steel plates. For forming I have two pieces of 1" gum rubber mounted on 1/2" aluminum plates. I'm cutting against a poly board. Last night I tested the clicker dies on 8 oz. leather. Wow. You work the handle on the hydraulic ram, hear a couple of pops and there's the part. It only takes a few seconds to cut each part. The dies were $55 and $65. Both of these dies are for pocket holsters where the front and back parts are mirror images; i.e., both can be cut with the same die by just flipping the leather over. The quality of the cut, when the flesh side is down, is just about perfect. When cutting with the flesh side up, I notice a few crinkles or coining around the edge of the leather, on the finish side. Can any of you suggest what I can do to avoid this? Jeff

When I got my Boss I was confused by the conflicting info. I called Tippmann...wrap around both tensioners.

Thanks for the detailed explanation of your process. Jeff