JeffGC

Yesterday, I removed the top finish (Bag Kote) with Deglazer so that I could redye the holster. I dip dyed in the same solution (see previous post) but extended the time to about two minutes. When the holster dried, I noticed the paths of the machine presser foot accepted dye differently, being slightly darker. I applied a number of coats of full strength dark brown, eventually resulting in a even, but dark, dye job. Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Jeff

Lobo - When dip dying, how long do you leave the holster in the dye?

How and, more importantly, when in your assembly cycle to you finish the inside of your holsters?

Do you always use white thread? My question is based on your workflow. If you dye and then groove for stitching, you expose the lighter leather in the groove. With white thread, that isn't an issue. If, or when, you use darker thread with a dark dye, do you redye to darken the groove?

A few days ago, I dip dyed a holster (J-Frame) in Fiebing's Medium Brown, thinned 50% with denatured alcohol. The leather was Wickett & Craig and it had been plated. The holster was sewn and formed. The leather was cleaned with oxalic acid, wiped with a damp sponge and then cleaned with Fiebing's #12 Deglazer. Then it was submerged for 30 seconds in the dye and hung on a rod to dry. The results were interesting. Any area that had received any pressure was lighter. This included areas of hard forming to the weapon and even on the reverse side of the leather, in the area of the needle plate (Tippmann Boss sewing machine). Areas that did not receive pressure during the manufacturing process accepted the dye evenly. This really got me to thinking, asking myself the question of how the big holster makers produce holsters with such even dye application. This morning, I spoke with the technical people at Wickett & Craig and Fiebing's. I also spoke with a very knowledgeable contact at Tippmann. I learned a few interesting things. Many of the big holster makers purchase vat dyed leather from Wicket & Craig. The dye goes completely through the leather, not even requiring dye on the edges. Everyone agreed that spraying the dye before doing anything to the leather would result in a more even absorption of the dye. Last week, I did spray dye onto a holster (LCP) using a Paasche AUTF trim gun. The leather had been basket stamped but, otherwise, no compression from forming. The dye laydown was smooth and even. I reached a couple of conclusions: Dip dying will work on very dark colors; i.e., dark brown and black. If you want even, light colors, spray it. A few other points worth comments: I did experiment with the Bick 4/dye mixture on a knife sheath. It worked very well but did not harden the leather, which I want. After dying, I finish with Fiebing's Bag Kote and then Renaissance Wax. Jeff

Eric - You did a great job on your video. Also, you make beautiful holsters! Jeff

Your design and craftsmanship are excellent. I think you're doing quite well with the Boss. Are you airbrushing before assembly, sewing and then forming? If not, what is your workflow?

Thanks. I slightly tightened the bolt and the looping problem went away. This is really quite a learning experience. Last night, I sewed my first holster after sewing yards of stitches on practice scrapes. I was pleased with the appearance of my top stitching but I'm still not used to seeing the appearance of the bottom stitching from a machine. One problem I created for myself. When I stitched around a curve or approaching a corner, I'd lift the presser foot and place the next stitch by eye. The result is visibly erratic stitch lengths. I think I need to rely more of the accuracy of the machine, letting it control the stitch length. I need to learn to nudge the line of stitching around a curve without lifting the foot.

Pete-Roughly, what proportions of dye to Bicks 4? I know a lot depends on the desired shade.

What is the part number of the adjustable screw on the thread takeup lever?

This forum is a wonderful resource but don't forget about the outstanding technical support from Tippmann. I was having the same problems; i.e., loop forming at the tip of the needle and also occasionally missing a stitch. Ben immediately addressed tightening the tensioner screw on the thread takeup lever.

I spoke with Ben at Tippmann earlier this week regarding the wrap on the primary tensioner. Wrap completely around it (360 degrees).

I've been following this thread (bad pun!) with considerable interest since I've had my Boss for about a week. I have hand stitched for years and I also notice the difference in the appearance of the stitching on the reverse side. I also found the bobbin tension from the factory far too high. This resulted in my turning the needle thread tension way to high, attempting to pull the bobbin thread up into the leather. Then, the leather was being slightly torn at the needle holes. Following the advice in this thread, I adjusted the bobbin thread to give slight resistance when pulled through the needle plate and then adjusted the tension knobs as suggested by Denster. The quality of the stitching greatly improved. I have learned that they (Tippmann) do not use 277 in their pre-wound bobbins; it's thinner. Is it possible to have too light of tension? What style of needle are you using? I believe they come with pointed but I'm wondering if I should try a chisel needle.

I'm assembling a holster press, using a floor shop press. I'm using 1" 40 duro rubber, mounted to 1/2" aluminum. I have a question to those of you that are using a similar setup - Do you ever press a holster using the actual weapon? Isn't it possible to damage it? Obviously, using a dummy gun would be preferable, if available. You input will be greatly appreciated.

After hand sewing for forty years, I've decided to speed things up a bit. I've ordered a Tippmann Boss which should arrive before the weekend. I have two questions: 1) When hand stitching, I groove both the front and the back of the holster. When sewing with a machine, does one still groove the back? 2) Recently, I've heard of an alternative method to cutting a stitching groove...moisten the leather and crease it with a tool. Is anyone doing this? If so, what are the advantages/disadvantages. Thanks for your help.

I use a hole punch on the two ends (3/8") and then connect the holes with a wood chisel. I smooth the inside of the slot with a small sanding drum on a Dremel. I add the slots after gluing, cutting through both thicknesses of the assembled leather.

Bronson - Unfortunately, the Flicker link does not work for me.

Mike-Thanks for your suggestions. If you can find the pattern, I'd appreciate it.

Unfortunately, I mis-spoke (or mis-typed). I'm making an OWB holster for the J-Frame. Recently, I made a pancake holster for this revolver (340PD) which works well. I'm a bit concerned about retention in the holster. With autos, there are a lot of features (ejection port, slide release, mag release, etc.) that, when boned, aid in the retention of the weapon in the holster. There isn't much with a revolver. That's why I'm considering redesigning the holster, adding a thumb-break retention strap. If you have any other ideas, they would be greatly appreciated.

Shortly, I will be constructing a IWB holster for a hammerless J-Frame revolver. I am designing it with a retention strap and a thumb break. Most holsters of this type reinforce the tab on the thumb break with some sort of stiff material. What do some of you use for the stiffener?

Ray - It is posted.

Yes.

I carry way too much stuff in my pockets but I always want to have a handgun and a knife. This is my second design for a combination holster. Previously, I designed one for a LCP with a knife. This one is for a S&W J-Frame revolver and a Kershaw Chive.

Larry - I just sent you a drawing via email. Jeff

Larry - The front is 7-8 oz. and the back is 4-5 oz. Also, there is a small piece of leather sewn to the top of the back side, at the edge of the mouth of the holster (image attached). When drawing the pistol from the holster, one's thumb presses against this tab to push the holster down. Both the front and back use the same pattern. I cut the knife clip radius using a 3/4" punch. Please PM your email and I'll send you a PDF of the pattern.