JeffGC

Bruce - Thanks for your assistance. Jeff C.

Bruce - I need a bit more help with my Osborne No. 86. Is the flat side of the blade supposed to be perfectly flat? I started to sharpen it, with the assumption that is was flat but it certainly does not seem to be. It seems to have a slight bow in it, with the center being high. Also, I might even detect a slight bevel. Should I grind/stone the flat side until it is perfectly flat? Your guidance will be appreciated. Jeff C.

Bruce-Thank you. Jeff C.

I have recently acquired an old No. 86 Splitter and have a few on setup and usage. What is correct position of the roller to the cutting tip? Should it be over the 12:00 o'clock position? I will primarily be splitting rather narrow veg tanned leathers for belts, skiving down from 8-10 or 10-12 to 4-5 oz. can I do this in one pass through the splitter? Thanks. Jeff C

I've read this thread about 25 times and I am still a bit confused. When you adjust the regulator nut, I would think you are changing the stitch length in both Forward and Reverse. Am I to understand that the solution is to slightly adjust the regulator nut when changing to Reverse? When one returns to Forward, you go back to the original setting? Jeff C.

If still available, I'll take it. Please PM me.

I've been making holsters since 1969, hand sewing until about two years ago, when I purchased a Tippmann Boss. The Boss was sold and shipped this past Monday morning and my Cowboy CB4500 was delivered a few hours later. Originally, I had ordered the short-armed CB3500 but, after reading many posts on this forum, I changed my order to the mid-armed CB4500 (16.5"). This is really quite a machine and built like a tank. The shipping weight was over 300 pounds! It took me about thirty minutes to assemble the machine. It was obvious that Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, had carefully checked everything and had adjusted the machine before shipping. I threaded the machine (Bob has a very helpful video on threading on his website), grabbed a couple a scraps of leather and started sewing. Everything worked perfectly. I cannot say enough nice things about Bob. He's has been extremely helpful and patient with my questions. As a businessman, he gets it, treating me as I would like to be treated. He does what he says he will do and, if away from the phone, promptly returns calls. Jeff C.

This machine was purchased new a little over two years ago and is in outstanding condition. Includes most of the original spool of thread, three bobbins, extra foot (I think left), tool box with tools, manual and original packaging. $1,200.00 with free UPS insured shipping within the lower 48. This will only be available until next Monday, April 23rd. I will then list on eBay. Contact Jeff at jeffgc@gmail.com

Your help will be greatly appreciated. I just posted a Tippmann Boss for sale but accidentally posted in the new or refurbished sewing equipment section. It should have been listed under used. I cannot see how to delete or move the listing. Can you move it for me? Thanks. Regards, Jeff Chosid Name: Jeff Chosid UserName: JeffGC IP Address: 71.14.185.190 Email Address: jeffgc@conversource.com

Busted - Thank you for responding so quickly. I guess I should have included a bit more information in my original posting. I have been working with leather for many years, making holsters for about 40 years. In addition, I've made numerous gun belts. Typically, I make them of double thickness 8 oz. veg tanned leather. I'd like to make dress belts. I've looked at many commercial dress belts and have noticed that they have an additional layer in the center. Not out to the edge of the belt but between the stitch lines. I wanted to know what is typically used to provide this appearance. It might just be a narrower third layer of leather. Any help will be appreciated. Jeff C.

I'd like to make a men's dress belt. I've noticed that many have some sort of filler between the front and back. I cut an old one apart and it looks almost like felt. What is commonly used? Thanks for any input. Jeff C.

Custom Caspian Officers Model with ivory grips. In a sharkskin pancake holster. Jeff

If wealth was to be measured in how many snap parts one owns, I will shortly be considered quite rich! From Dot, I've order two lengths of caps, two lengths of posts, studs and eyelets. All are 24 Line brass with nickel plating, standard hold. At least I'll never run out. Jeff

After making lots of pancake and pocket holsters, I've ventured out with something different, making a Tom Threepersons holster for a Ruger Super Blackhawk. This is also my first attempt with an oil finish. Jeff

Is there a difference in the quality of 24 Line snaps? Recently, I used nickel plated snaps purchased from S-T Leather, in St. Louis. They were set using a tool also purchased from them. The following problems occurred: When setting, the tubes fractured and tore instead of rolling neatly. The metal seems to be excessively hard. After forming the holster, I noticed blue stains on the leather around the snap. Leather is Wickett & Craig. The stains were removed with Oxalic Acid. They reappeared when the holster was finished with Neatsfoot Oil. The completed snaps do not fasten as firmly and securely as I'd want. Any comments and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Jeff

Yes, it will work just fine. The one I use looks about the same. Regards, Jeff

I use a 1.25" O'Brien punch to cut belt slots. I place the backup pad on a cement floor and use a synthetic dead-blow hammer. Regards, Jeff

I finish everything with Bag Kote on the outside and then Leather Sheen on the inside. The Bag Kote is thinned 20% with water (following Fiebing's recommendations) and sprayed on with a Paasche AUTF. The AUTF is larger than a traditional air brush but smaller than a trim brush. I apply three light coats, allowing the piece to dry between coats. After the outside is dry, I apply the Leather Sheen to the inside of the holster with a dauber. Please don't ask why I use a different product on the inside! I read about using Leather Sheen in some post and found it to work well. I've struggled on how to hold holsters while spraying them. I think, though, I come up with a very workable solution. I have a selection of dowels (5/8" and 3/4") fitted with rubber cups (chair leg or cane ends). When placed inside the holster, all exterior surfaces and edges can be easily sprayed. Regards, Jeff

Most of my holsters are black with black thread. I dip-dye after sewing and forming. If the holster is a lighter color or if I'm using contrasting stitching, I'll dye (air brush) before assembly. Regards, Jeff

I've been making holsters for over forty years, saddle stitching every one until earlier this year. Even though I do it well, I don't enjoy hand sewing and avoided projects that required a lot of sewing. In January I purchased a Tippmann Boss and have been totally delighted with it. I'll occasionally hand sew when required. My initial experiences were just like a few of the other posters; i.e., my machine sewing looked terrible. Before long, my machine stitching looked great. Regards, Jeff

I've just ordered a 3.5" head knife from Jeff Cook. Regards, Jeff

Yes, I've experienced problems with rub off. In the past, I have applied Bag Kote using a sponge dampened with water. I really wasn't sure if I was applying Bag Kote or water from the sponge! On the two latest holsters, I applied reduced Bag Kote (thinned with 20% water) with a Paasche AUTF spray gun. Regards, Jeff

I use commercial 6 quart Rubbermaid containers available at Sam's Club. The have a flexible lid that seals well. Regards, Jeff

Shark skin was was www.ostrichmarket.com. Regards, Jeff

Following the advice offered by forum members, I've constructed an improved version of the Glock 22 pancake holster. Regards, Jeff