troop

ok, i was gonna get some 6-7 anyhow, so i'll give it a try guys, thanks Tony

gonna get with Matt from Wickett and Craig this next week at Wickenburg. was looking at some 4-5 and combining it with 6-7 for concealed holster belts. the doubling of the 6-7 isnt' too thick for the average jeans belt loops? seems kinda thick for that application but if it works i'd try it. Tony

actually i use to use the tandy 6-7 shoulders when i first started doing leatherwork. after now using 7-8/8-9 i find that 6-7 is too light other than for holsters of smaller lighter handguns. i am however getting ready to start making belts for my concealed holsters and was going to use 6-7 and attach 4-5 to the inside. as far as a cowboy rig belt it may too light alone, but double it up and it should be fine. Tony

very nicely done Shooter. you are off to a good start leaving behind the Tandy stuff. (even though we all start there) your work looks awsome. Tony

i use 7-8 W/C for mine. works great. not so thick that i cant mold it nice and tight to gun. For my pancakes, i use 8-10 on the back piece and 7-8 on the front. i have seen your video on your website and while basically the same in the cutting and designing we differ on the wetting, molding, and forming. your holsters are great and we love seeing them. Tony

what brand of leather are you using JH? Tony

Jon, look what you started...hahaha Tony

afraid i have to agree with Ferg on this one. i would have to throw it in the scrap bin and start again. if i know my blooper is out there i'll never sleep well. there is enough crappy craftsmanship out there. i'm not gonna be one of em. Tony

hahaha i hear ya. that would suck.

the trigger guard molding wasn't an issue with it. it is not as tight as it looks in the picture. the backside isn't as molded in and with the natural flex of the leather the gun fits in with a real nice soft "click" but nowhere near putting any kind of pressure on the trigger. Tony

how do you mean?

after not being able to find all that stuff myself i started making my own paddle systems using kydex, t-nuts, screws and washers. comes out really comfortable, and sturdy. the pics of some older styles i have done. instead of the squared off bulky looking stops you see on these paddles i now use a smaller, lower profile round cut (halk inch round punch piece) secured with a rivet. it is much cleaner looking. Tony

i have used .085 thickness kydex as in insert in the past. always worked out well. Tony

before i got my cobra class three machine, i marked my leather with the overstitcher then used a 00 hole punch. came out pretty good that way. Tony

RC i too use W/C leather with great results. i used to dye it myself but to save time, with so many orders, i have begun to order my leather from them already drum dyed. well worth the small increase in cost. Tony

thanks Jon RC and Fredo. actually i use the bottom of my rivet setter for just about the whole molding process. i use it on the ejection port, trigger,underneath the barrel and i use it and a ruler for the lines along the frame. i use the top (rivet setting side) for the circle around the slide stop pin. been wanting to get a real bone folder though and give that a try. Tony

unless of course, your customer read this thread...then they would know it was a fix....lol. Rob is right however, if you dye sparingly a couple of coats it won't soak through. i too have had this issue and have a box full of minor little defects. but i always remember that even if i give it away at a discounted price or even for free. my name is on it and i don't want others who see the customer wearing it thinking that any defect is my standard. Tony

well there a couple of different ways i use, depending on the effect i'm going for. i have used water and slicker to smooth it out. i have also used gum-T and a slicker. i have also used the lint remover you described on some of my owb holsters when needed. Tony

on their web site it is listed as holster skirting.....i make concealed carry holsters but am starting to dabble in western holsters. Tony

i use W/C drum dyed single backs.....(the side without the belly) i get them "holstered" (pressed). i used to dye them myself but getting them dyed saves time and makes consistent color throughout my projects. Tony

sometimes pictures can be decieving.... the color in the picture i am seeing looks more like chestnut to me than russett. but if it is truely russett the feibings pro oil light brown is an exact match....(russett , to me is more of a golden color) i get my leather from Wickett and Craig....give them a call and ask for Matt. he can send you a color swatch so you can match it to the shoes and they are real good at making the customer happy. Tony