troop

ok, i was gonna get some 6-7 anyhow, so i'll give it a try guys, thanks Tony

gonna get with Matt from Wickett and Craig this next week at Wickenburg. was looking at some 4-5 and combining it with 6-7 for concealed holster belts. the doubling of the 6-7 isnt' too thick for the average jeans belt loops? seems kinda thick for that application but if it works i'd try it. Tony

actually i use to use the tandy 6-7 shoulders when i first started doing leatherwork. after now using 7-8/8-9 i find that 6-7 is too light other than for holsters of smaller lighter handguns. i am however getting ready to start making belts for my concealed holsters and was going to use 6-7 and attach 4-5 to the inside. as far as a cowboy rig belt it may too light alone, but double it up and it should be fine. Tony

very nicely done Shooter. you are off to a good start leaving behind the Tandy stuff. (even though we all start there) your work looks awsome. Tony

i use 7-8 W/C for mine. works great. not so thick that i cant mold it nice and tight to gun. For my pancakes, i use 8-10 on the back piece and 7-8 on the front. i have seen your video on your website and while basically the same in the cutting and designing we differ on the wetting, molding, and forming. your holsters are great and we love seeing them. Tony

what brand of leather are you using JH? Tony

Jon, look what you started...hahaha Tony

afraid i have to agree with Ferg on this one. i would have to throw it in the scrap bin and start again. if i know my blooper is out there i'll never sleep well. there is enough crappy craftsmanship out there. i'm not gonna be one of em. Tony

hahaha i hear ya. that would suck.

the trigger guard molding wasn't an issue with it. it is not as tight as it looks in the picture. the backside isn't as molded in and with the natural flex of the leather the gun fits in with a real nice soft "click" but nowhere near putting any kind of pressure on the trigger. Tony

how do you mean?

after not being able to find all that stuff myself i started making my own paddle systems using kydex, t-nuts, screws and washers. comes out really comfortable, and sturdy. the pics of some older styles i have done. instead of the squared off bulky looking stops you see on these paddles i now use a smaller, lower profile round cut (halk inch round punch piece) secured with a rivet. it is much cleaner looking. Tony

i have used .085 thickness kydex as in insert in the past. always worked out well. Tony

before i got my cobra class three machine, i marked my leather with the overstitcher then used a 00 hole punch. came out pretty good that way. Tony

RC i too use W/C leather with great results. i used to dye it myself but to save time, with so many orders, i have begun to order my leather from them already drum dyed. well worth the small increase in cost. Tony

thanks Jon RC and Fredo. actually i use the bottom of my rivet setter for just about the whole molding process. i use it on the ejection port, trigger,underneath the barrel and i use it and a ruler for the lines along the frame. i use the top (rivet setting side) for the circle around the slide stop pin. been wanting to get a real bone folder though and give that a try. Tony