troop

George, i'm not sure what you are trying to explain. are you having trouble with the mag covers? here is an example of one i completed for a shoulder rig if it helps. Tony

still looks great. are you getting your leather "holstered"? i get mine "holstered" from W/C and it is so tight it is really hard to cut through. i sometimes have to use it to cut designs on for notebooks and stuff and it is really hard to carve on. Tony

Shooter, you hit a home run with that set up. my hat's off to you, very well done! Tony

not sure i'm understanding you correctly. are you saying you have a 1" gap in between the two mags? that is way too much. a 3/8" gap is plenty to allow a walking foot machine to sew between and keep the unit compact enough. are you molding the top and keeping the back flat or are you splitting the leather even on both sides of the mags. i don't have pics of ones i do with belt slots but on this one you can see the 3/8" gap between the mags. this one has clips on the back side and not belt slots. when i do slots i sew up in between the mags instead of using a tension screw. Tony

YUCK Kydex.... i understand that kydex is the official material of al qaida...

it pretty much is straight out of lowes. a t-nut, screw and a rubber vacum line cut into spacers. that is how i used to do them. stopped doing them at all now unless a customer really demands it. they are ok in the beginning but pretty soon you have to keep tightening them until one day they are at the end with no more room to tighten and you find that all you have done is stretch the leather out. just a good ol fashion tight stitch is all you really need. Tony

it looks good Particle. one thing i noted with the heavier handled short guns is to concentrate on getting as much of the belt as possible behind the the meat of the trigger guard or higher. ( the higher the belt rides, the less tilt over you get) it wont ride as high but its still short enough to stay concealed and it pulls the weight of the gun against the body. it looks like you got the belt good enough behind the tirgger guard. the only way to get the belt higher up is to cant it foward more, raising the belt slot on the slide side. Tony

i use 346 on the top and 277 on the bottom. Tony

using Wickett and Craig. i love their leather plus i can get just one side at a time. Tony

thanks all. actually i bought a square foot of three inch thick HDPE (high density polyethylene) then had molds and blanks made out of it for all of the common magazines. 9mm double, 40 cal double 45 cal double and single.... the stuff is very strong and takes a 12 ton press like a champ. i would recommend it over wood anyday. it cuts like wood but is way stronger. it is expensive ( $100.00 a square foot) but if you plan on doing this for awhile it pays for itself. Tony

my latest holster/ammo pouch combos. Tony

line 24 snaps are fine.

what leather are you using? and how are you molding (boning) the holsters. it almost looks like they're not getting enough moisture into the leather and you may be burnishing them when you press the shape of the gun in them. i soak mine until the bubbles stop then let air dry for about 15 min before i start molding the gun to them. i have never dipped my holsters in neatsfoot but do apply it with a dauber and actually love the look i get with the oiled chestnut. Tony

used Barges in the beginning, but have switched to masters. spreads much nicer and think it dries a bit faster too. very pliable and sticks very well also. as it gets closer to the bottom i just throw some thinner in it and can dilute it pretty thin and it still sticks like a dream. Tony

I wrestled with the dye issues for awhile, then started getting it drum dyed from the seller. very much worth it in both the money it costs to get it dyed and the time saved waiting for the dye to dry. air brushing does apply the dye more evenly and leaves less of a chance of the blotchiness, but i have found i need put it on extra thick with the airbrush to get decent penetration. if money is not an issue, i'd opt to get the leather pre dyed. it is more uniformed color and saves money and time in the long run. Tony

kinda along the same line.....has anyone applied dye, more particularly with an airbrush on english bridle? was curious how it takes dye before i start trying it. Tony

cool thank Rayban Tony

cool thanks

hahahahaha thanks Rayban. hey by the way i checked out your web page and must say you have pretty good looking stuff on there. was wondering particularly about the black handled 1911 on the home page. the original badge for the police department i work for is identical to the star badge inset in the grips. anyways i have been wanting to have my miniature badge inset into my grips but couldn't find anyone to do it. can i ask who did those grips? Tony

i actually traded the holster for some custom shirts with my leather logo on them from a friend who has a shirt business. equalled to about $100.00. would probably ask for about $120 to $140 next time for the paddle system. not sure if its not enough or not having been the first one i've done.i normally charge $80.00 for paddle systems, $60.00 for pancake and avengers, and $40.00 for IWB without any kind of exotic. Tony

no problem. i have the same blue gun and know they are the same. one thing i have leared to do is look up holsters for the guns online and see which one use the same models. Tony

yes they are the same demensions. Tony