troop

hahahaha i don't really care for the Glocks either and don't think they make good looking holsters, but it is what our department has now adopted for our duty guns. i have designed a pretty decent looking holster but they obviously just need a stronger breaking in period. Tony

i mold with both the real Glock and the Blue guns. same result i was kinda thinking the blockiness was to blame as well. it seems to really grab the edges

have any of you holster makers had issues with the Glock handguns being more difficult to break in your new holsters or had difficutly drawing them? Tony

i also use a neutral kiwi at the end. if i don't put a heat gun to it, it hardens and leaves the white cracks. heat it with a lighter and then buff it with a brush. it should help Tony

thank you for the kind words. it was the first time i ever used it. will definitely charge more for the next one. stitched it with my Cobra 3 sewing machine. no special issues in sewing it, as the machine went through it nicely. but cutting it sure was hard. the stuff is hard as a rock. Tony

all of my paddle holsters are leather with kydex strip inside for rigidity. way more comfortable than the plastic paddles. using only a 1 1/4 kydex strip in the middle also allows the leather on the sides to conform to the body.can't find the back and side view pictures. but the flesh side sits against the body on these. Tony

it should work Particle. you may look up a brand name holster for the Operator and see if the same model holster is named for the Colt as well. the only time i needed the actual gun on a 1911 with a rail other than my Operator mold was when an aftermarket rail system was installed on a S.A. TRP. Tony

i'm lucky because i work for a law enforcement agency and have customers all around me all day. but word of mouth is where most of my business comes from. you may find though that you have to spend some money up front to make money in the end. it's worth it though. this is a great craft. Tony

thanks everyone. i learned a lot from many of you and am always looking to improve my products. just when i think i've reached a pinacle i learn something new.... thanks so much for all who post on here. Tony

got my first large scale order of minimum of about 100 holsters with a max of about 300.....for the glock 17 22 and 21. going to deliver the first 40 to 50 next week. very excited.

very nice!! Tony

lazer gift creations. online....they helped design and were very inexpensive. shipped in like two days. Tony

Denster, WOW! you absolutely hit a home run with that one! I tend to shy from molded revolver holsters because they never seem to mold as nicely as the autos, but not only is that the handsomest molded revolver holster i've seen it ranks up with some of the nicest auto holsters as well..... well done! Tony

the vacuum bag must help then. if it works i say do it. Tony

actually Denster, i have found the opposite a problem. i soak it untill ;the bubbles pretty much stop. i tried to do it with less time but found that if i just got it wet for up to only a minute or two that when i molded it would sometime burnish the leather and cause dark spots. i have had no such problems when i soak it for several minutes and am really pleased with my results. Tony

i used to use 8-10 oz front and back but found you just don't get enough detail in the boning. so now i use 8-10 for the back and 7-8 for the front. works perfectly Tony

ok, now i see what you are talking about. i had the same problem when i first started making mag pouches in that manner. (before i had molds and blanks made) BITONE40 has it right with the way he cants in the thread line and how it evens out after putting the mag in. another option is to cut a U-shaped section out of the middle side so when you fold up the two ends those protruding corners are gone. mine are flat on the back with the front placed in a mold in a 12 ton press. good luck and keep at it. you'll be glad you didnt give up. Tony